3 posts tagged "Massimo Casagrande"
The white shirt is having a moment at LC:M—but it’s not the boring wardrobe staple kind. First up was Massimo Casagrande, who put rubber and graphic details on his impeccably tailored tops at Fashion East. Then there was Alastair Guy’s new exhibition, White Shirts, which debuted via a private view at the Century Club last night. The photographer lensed the likes of David Gandy, Luke Evans, and Todd Lynn in crisp white wares, and showed us how the right subject can make the oft ordinary look extraordinary.
Emerging brand Palmer//Harding (designed by Levi Palmer and Matthew Harding), too, proved just how covetable a white shirt can be. “We feel the white shirt is a neglected bit of a man’s wardrobe,” offered Palmer. “Yes, they can be beautifully done and impeccably tailored, but they are always thought of as layering pieces, and we want to make the white shirt the star of the show.”
For their second official menswear collection, Palmer and Harding aimed to inject the ease and attitude of a T-shirt into more traditional shirting options. And they did just that with an artfully constructed button-down with a built-in jersey tee feature, asymmetrical options, their now-signature spiral pleat back, and their amusing reverse mullet shirt. “Yellow in the front is the party bit and white in the back is the business end,” explained Palmer.
Trousers with neon belt-loop details, a chartreuse biker jacket, and a teal suede tunic rounded out the collection, and demonstrated why the duo have already caught the eye of stockists like Dover Street Market and Ikram. “I find that men can be quite timid in their fashion choices,” said Palmer. “They want something traditional, but they also need something a little fashion-y to break up the same old, same old. Our collection is still safe—but we hope there’s a lot of modernity in it.”
Long gone are the days when skirts on men used to shock. Now we have aprons, dangly double tribal earrings, balaclavas, and patent-leather chokers. Or, at least, that’s what we saw at Fashion East’s Fall ’14 menswear installations in London today. Lulu Kennedy’s emerging-designer initiative welcomes three new talents this season: jeweler Roxanne Farahmand, shirtmaker Massimo Casagrande, and CSM grad Nicomede Talavera (above, left) join Fashion East veterans Tom Ryling (above, right) and Liam Hodges. These three may be freshmen, but they each offered that daring, eyebrow-raising edge that has become synonymous with the platform.
Talavera cited artist Robert Morris as inspiration, but his lineup felt more Star Trek: The Original Series. Graphic, Spock-like sweaters, leather chokers, too-long spliced pant hems over Vans, three-quarter-length aprons draped just so, and color-blocked details reminded us why the word directional was probably invented for Fashion East. Casagrande took cues from artist Adam McEwen’s photographs of New York sidewalks and turned out wares with studs, graphics, and rubber details.
Farahmand, who used to work with Dominic Jones, looked like she had the Fast and the Furious on her brain—speed was her Fall ’14 theme. Tattooed models with menacing haircuts and even scarier oversize knuckle-dusters were draped over fast cars, showing off her rings, necklaces, and bracelets. Amusing under-the-armpit body harnesses and straps over trainers looked so cool, we didn’t care if there was a purpose behind them—and we were too afraid to ask.
Ryling, meanwhile, put balaclavas on his models. He also showed some great graffitied and paint-splattered jean jackets, and trousers with red chiffon overlays. Rounding it out was Hodges, who carried on his theme from last season—no “high-borns,” please. Steel-toed workman boots, lashings of electrical tape, cracked leather, hoodies, and boxy silhouettes made Hodges’ boys look like they were ready to rumble at any time.
It’s that time of year again…no, we’re not talking about holiday cheer and cozy family get-togethers. We’re referring to the menswear collections, which will kick off in London on January 6. Today, Lulu Kennedy’s young designer platform Fashion East announced its Fall ’14 men’s lineup, which will feature returning talents Liam Hodges and Tom Ryling, as well as newcomers including jeweler Roxanne Farahmand, shirt-maker Massimo Casagrande, and Nicomede Talavera (left), a Central Saint Martins graduate who will present his ready-to-wear collection with the initiative. And this season the menswear platform, which was founded in 2012, will have a little extra kick, thanks to a new collaboration with Red Bull Catwalk Studio. Given the jet lag, sleepless nights, and general feeling of exhaustion that tend to accompany fashion weeks, we hope the sponsorship means complementary energy drinks.