4 posts tagged "Matohu"
Throughout Tokyo fashion week, we’ve had Misha Janette reporting on the city’s most exciting shows. To see Style.com’s complete Tokyo fashion week coverage, click here.
Saturday marked the sixth and final day of Tokyo fashion week, and it was dedicated to the city’s top menswear designers. Comme des Garçons itself doesn’t show in Tokyo, but it was exciting to see its youthful Ganryu label (left) take to the catwalk. Designed by Fumito Ganryu, who was formerly a patternmaker for Junya Watanabe, Ganryu showed a Fall '13 range that catered to an urban huntsman—a man who pairs cable-knit sweaters and puffy down vests with super low drop-crotch pants and high maintenance coifs. A dress shirt with trompe l’oeil vest appliqué showed off Ganryu’s progressive nature.
Facetasm focused on separates in its collection of layered workwear-cum-dress clothes. Kilts, slips, peplums, and sleeve-only bolero jackets all made an appearance. Each piece boasted its own details, like basket-weaving and original line drawings of a forest or old-school tattoos. For the women, there were formfitting silhouettes with pastel-colored ruffled trim.
Making its debut on Saturday was Mr. Gentleman, a brand headed by Takeshi “Big-O” Osumi of popular menswear brand Phenomenon, and Yuichi Yoshii, who is the director of Tokyo’s top multi-brand superstore, The Contemporary Fix. Together, they produced a casual and modern wardrobe that featured slim-cut tweed leisure suits and retro letterman jackets. For a twist, the designers showed a leather-lined and zipper-trimmed peacoat and an argyle-print jacket.
The week closed with a large-scale installation show by new label C.E. With former BAPE designer Skate Thing at its creative helm, the brand used 3-D mapping technology to create a kaleidoscopic fashion feast. C.E.’s standouts, like hoodies and colorful board shorts, furthered the familiar urban look that Skate Thing does best.
For the first time, reporter Misha Janette will report on the best and brightest shows of Tokyo fashion week. To see Style.com’s complete coverage of the shows, click here.
Day 5:Being the last major day of Tokyo fashion week, it was a coup to see a show that trounced all others. It was Alice Auaa (pictured), a gothic Lolita brand that began as a fringe label. The show told the story of a surreal Alice in Wonderland where the Cheshire Cat wears red plaid overalls and the Queen of Hearts goes in drag. That could be seen in the details such as accordion pleats on early 1900s-style silk pajamas and voluminous bustles on black va-va-voom gowns.
Beautiful People is Japan’s answer to high-end American sportswear, even though the inspiration for the Spring 2013 collection was retro happy-go-lucky Japan. Hip beatnik styles got a pick-me-up for today, meaning circle skirts with metallic foil treatments, cigarette pants in pastel floral prints, and camel-colored leather jackets.
For the final show of the season, G.V.G.V. showed a collection based on an Eden of tropical insects, a concept that came through in pieces like the shiny aurora leather jacket with beetle “wings” or the bright abstract patterns like the markings of exotic critters. The devil-horned hair and mad scientist sunglasses brought out a cunning side to the soft peplum skirts and A-line dresses, and this matched with super-platform creeper shoes made the collection inherently Tokyo style.
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If you were asked to rattle off New York’s great shopping neighborhoods, the Bowery might not make it into your top five. But for Fashion’s Night Out, Rogan Gregory, who opened his second boutique inside the Bouwerie Lane Theater last year, is aiming to change that. “It’s got a good collection of stores,” explained Gregory over the phone. “There’s Maria Cornejo, Partners & Spade; the bookshop across the street [Dashwood] is amazing. We’re kind of in the middle of everything on that corner, so we felt some obligation to get everyone together.” Gregory and his team created a handy little map in the label’s neo-constructivist style that includes all of the above, as well as The Smile, Oak, John Derian, and Bellhaus, which will be hosting Vogue alumni-turned-designers that night. You can flip the map over for details of what’s happening where. Also in the spirit of synergy, Rogan’s store will stock a curated selection from relatively under-the-radar designers like Risto, Matohu, Ajna, and Salvor. Gregory himself will be starting the evening at Barneys on Madison Ave.for a Loomstate event, but will migrate downtown for the many planned events at his store—a showing of rare footage from Albert Maysles and a performance by band Cold Cave—and to just be where his heart is. “The Bowery’s got a lot of soul, cultural soul,” he says. “It’s not just another area.” To download the map go to www.rogannyc.com.
Dressing for success in the Working Girl sense of shoulder pads and bow blouses may have fallen out of favor. Power dressing, however, never really lost its cachet, according to G.V.G.V. designer MUG. Indeed, “power” was the first word that came to mind when describing her Spring 2009 collection, shown last night at the Altman Building. The designer presented alongside labels Matohu, Hidenobu Yasui, Tiny Dinosaur, and Ylang Ylang for Japan fashion week’s New York jaunt. Backstage post-show, MUG also revealed that her sharply tailored, body-con designs were an ode of sorts to the nineties as well as an homage to fave photographers Peter Lindbergh and Helmut Newton. Though we could totally imagine Linda, Naomi, et al. rocking G.V.G.V. back in the day, the label remains distinctly au courant, hence its presence at both the New York and L.A. branches of Opening Ceremony. Tokyo-based MUG’s first impression of the Howard Street store? “Amazing.” Through February 1, retail exhibitions featuring all of the labels shown will also be on display at Destination N.Y., Theory, Aloha Rag, and Tribeca Issey Miyake.