August 20 2014

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3 posts tagged "Matthew Orley"

Hoping to Be the Next Great American Fashion Brand


Dao-Yi Chow, Bethann Hardison, Maxwell OsborneLast night, under the gothic archways of The High Line Hotel’s Hoffman Hall in New York’s Chelsea district, Target and the Council of Fashion Designers of America celebrated the CFDA’s incoming crop of promising design talent—the CFDA Incubator Class 3.0—over cocktails and dinner. The ten honorees—A Peace Treaty’s Dana Arbib, Farah Malik, and Jesse Meighan; Sara Beltrán of Dezso by Sara Beltrán; Isa Tapia; Kaelen’s Kaelen Haworth; Kara’s Sarah Law; Katie Ermilio; Lucio Castro; Nomia’s Yara Flinn; Nonoo’s Misha Nonoo; and Orley’s Matthew Orley, Alex Orley, and Samantha Florence—toasted the start of their two-year tenure (2014-2016) in the CFDA’s business development program.

“It’s a very reflective group of what is American fashion overall,” said Steven Kolb, the CFDA’s CEO, who later added, “We have the powerful opportunity to help these ten young American fashion brands move to a new level and to create a business that’s sustainable.” Target also created a “Summer School Series” of workshops and will present the designers with an Uncommon Design Challenge, where the winner will see their product sold in select Target stores and online.

Last night was about celebrating their collective Incubator experience (they spent the morning in media training) and how they’ll grow separately as professionals. Amid the chatter, Haworth was contemplating whether to make Castro’s June wedding in Corsica, Nonoo was gabbing with fellow CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund alum Dao-Yi Chow of Public School on just how they were portrayed in their Ovation TV documentary series, while Florence gushed about the Katie Ermilio dress she’ll wear to the upcoming CFDA Awards.

“Everyone can design a sketch, but not everyone can build a brand,” said Noria Morales, Target’s director of design partnerships. “The people who made it into this Incubator program have a nose for business, and we recognize that they can be the next great American fashion brands.”

Here’s to the next two years.

Photo: Neil Rasmus/ 

The Split-Second Preview: Orley


The Fall ’14 Ready-to-Wear collections kick off in New York on Wednesday, and will be followed by the shows in London, Milan, and Paris. Before the new clothes hit the runway, we’ve asked some of the most anticipated names to offer a sneak peek. Per usual, it’s a busy time for all—designers and fashion followers alike—so we’re continuing our split-second previews: tweet-length at 140 characters or less. Our entire collection of Fall ’14 previews is available here.

Orley Preview

WHO: Orley, designed by Matthew and Alex Orley and Samantha Florence

WHERE: New York

WHEN: Wednesday, February 5

WHAT: “More of the same, only new.” —Matthew and Alex Orley and Samantha Florence. The designers sent us a snap of a Fall ’14 look, above.

Photo: Courtesy of Orley

Orley Goes All Out


Orley's Spring '14 Collection

Orley—the effervescent New York-based menswear label designed by brothers Alex and Matthew Orley, and the latter’s fiancée, Samantha Florence—has come a long way since launching with only a handful of playful jumpers last year. Having previously focused on knitwear, Orley unveiled its first full-fledged collection for Spring ’14—all forty-five pieces of it. “Knits are still eighty percent of the [line],” offered Samantha. “But this season, we were able to build off feedback we’ve gotten from the retailers, now that we have some sales history.” And an impressive sales history it is—after only four seasons on the scene, the brand is already sold by Bergdorf Goodman, Fivestory, Carson Street Clothiers, and Tokyo’s United Arrows, among others.

The designers like to avoid any literal references when dreaming up their luxe cashmere, linen, and cotton wares. But this season, a hint of the Italian coast couldn’t help but sneak its way in. “It all starts with the palette,” explained Alex. “And recently, we had been spending a lot of time on the Adriatic because that’s where our factories are, so there are some Mediterranean reference points in the colors, the floral motifs, and the loucheness of the collection.” This comes through in a laid-back trousers-and-jacket combo cut from burnt-red linen, as well as striped cardigans in various hues of citrus or aqua, and pullovers done in oversize floral prints. “Really, it always comes back to how Matthew and I want to dress,” continued Alex of the brand’s aesthetic. “It’s irreverent—a little bit tossed on and colorful, and it doesn’t take itself too seriously.”

Orley's Spring '14 Collection

Considering the emerging menswear boom we’ve seen in New York of late (just look at Public School, Tim Coppens, Todd Snyder, and the like), young brands need a little something extra to stand out. And the Orley crew asserts that its appeal lies in the sheer quality of its product. The knits, all of which are produced in Italy (wovens are made right here in the USA), are crafted with top-notch yarns from mills like Loro Piana and Cariaggi. And one can’t overlook the to-a-T details, like horn and gilded buttons, grosgrain and leather trims, and combination linings.

Orley seems well positioned to forge ahead, and it has big goals for the future, including expanded e-commerce, suiting, and—a few years down the road—a stand-alone store. As for the team’s family dynamic, Alex insists that it helps the creative process. “If it comes down to a decision that we really can’t agree on, Matthew and I will arm wrestle,” he laughed. The biggest talking point this season? “I’ve been yelling at Matthew to propose to Sam for five years now, and this year he finally did it,” said Alex. “So that was the main point of discussion.”

Photos: Courtesy of Orley