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April 20 2014

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7 posts tagged "Maurizio Cattelan"

Visionaire Bridges the Gap

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Visionaire x Gap

“We love the idea of treating the T-shirts like a canvas,” explained Visionaire‘s Cecilia Dean from the boardroom of the publication’s downtown headquarters. “So you would have the signature at the bottom and it will explain, ‘This is an artwork by Yoko Ono for Visionaire 63Forever.’” The shirts Dean is describing are the first five in a series of forty-five collectible tees that Visionaire has produced with Gap. The wares include a graphic, shining silver block with the tagline “Grow love with me” scrawled by Yoko Ono at the bottom; a Maurizio Cattelan and Pierpaolo Ferrari vision of Linda Evangelista as a religious icon; a stoic, standing panther photographed by Sølve Sundsbø; a chemical-etched skull by Craig McDean; and, unsurprisingly given the star’s continuous relationship with the brand, a rather eye-catching portrait of Lady Gaga by Inez & Vinoodh, which debuts exclusively above. Each image is printed in silver on the Gap’s classic, comfortably casual black tees, and they’re translated from originals from the all-metal, meant-to-last-forever Visionaire 63 tome, which debuted earlier this year.

“I feel like the Gap audience probably isn’t familiar with Visionaire,” reflected Dean, “so this is a great way to introduce [the project] to a mass audience.”

The T-shirts will be unveiled at a lunch at The Webster during Art Basel Miami in December. “It’s fun. These T-shirts are like $29.95. I was joking that this is the first time we’ve produced something that my staff can afford,” exclaimed Dean. “And it’s totally true! So we’re psyched about that.”

They’re also looking forward to the next round, which will launch to wider audiences in the spring. “They’ll be based on past and future images and themes [from Visionaire],” said Dean. “The next family is coming out in May, so for us, it made sense to do something super-colorful.”

The Visionaire 63 -inspired T-shirts will be sold at Gap stores in Miami and New York; The Webster; V Files, New York; and online at Net-a-Porter.com from December 6.

Photo: Courtesy of Visionaire

Federico Marchetti Adds Art to Yoox’s Oeuvre

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Federico MarchettiThe impressive second-quarter results posted recently by the Yoox Group, Italy’s e-commerce giant, was further proof that the future of high fashion lies online. But can CEO Federico Marchetti (left) work the same magic with fine art? It has been on his mind since he launched Yoox fourteen years ago. “I’ve always had the notion of the one-stop shop, with a mixture of modern and vintage, clothes and furniture,” he says. “The art component is the one that closes the circle.”

Marchetti tested the waters last October with Damien Hirst, Grayson Perry, and the first-ever edition by Italy’s top Pop artist Francesco Vezzoli. “He did it to help earthquake relief in Emilia-Romagna, where I’m from,” explains Marchetti. “We did an edition of 399 priced at 399 euros, dollars, or pounds.” Yoox is now providing corporate sponsorship for Vezzoli’s Trinity, a series of three exhibitions in three cities, the first in Rome now until November 24, the second opening at New York’s MoMA PS1 in the fall, and the third at the Museum of Contemporary Art in L.A. in early winter.

But any multimillion-dollar business can cough up sponsorship dollars. It was Padiglione Crepaccio (below), the much humbler Yoox initiative during the opening days of the Venice Biennale, which cast a more interesting light on Marchetti’s intentions in the art world. Curator Caroline Corbetta assembled work by ten Venetian artists under 30—the sort of creative types who are usually overlooked when the Biennale’s grand caravan rolls into town every two years—and exhibited the result in the house where three of them live. (A very nice piece of old Venice it was, too, calculated to make starving artists everywhere else in the world utterly puce with envy.) The twist was that the exhibition preview was online. “Like Saatchi, but in reverse,” says Marchetti. “Everyone else got to see it online before the art-world elite got there.” Which didn’t stop heavy hitters like Vezzoli, Diesel’s Renzo Rosso, and cherished art-world provocateur Maurizio Cattelan (a patron saint to young Italian artists) from showing up in person at the opening.

Padiglione Crepaccio at Yoox.comWith his Acne jeans and his Lobb shoes, Marchetti is almost correct when he describes himself as the Yoox customer. And he was setting a good example by shopping for art at Padiglione Crepaccio. (In keeping with the initiative, it was only possible to buy the pieces on the iPads provided, even if you were standing right in front of the art and the artist). Right now, Marchetti is picturing art on Yoox as “something like a TV talent show, 99 percent talent, 1 percent the special X factor.” But going forward, he imagines people picking up “a pair of jeans and a painting” when they visit the site. “It’s part of the plan to make yoox.com a playful lifestyle,” he adds. “But playful in a serious way. It’s not the Amazon approach. We’re serious about collaboration.” Serious enough, in fact, to partner with the legendary photo agency Magnum—its first venture into e-commerce—and Hirst’s publishing company, Other Criteria.

But when Marchetti insists, “Surprise is the beauty of Yoox,” I flip back to the young artists in Venice, in particular a painter called Thomas Braida. With talent like his in the equation, people are going to be picking up way more than one painting with their pair of jeans.

Photos: David Needleman (Federico Marchetti); Courtesy of Yoox

Pledging Allegiance to Kenzo

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Carol Lim. Maurizio Cattelan, Pierpaolo Ferrari, Micol Talso and Humberto Leon at the Kenzo party

Leave it to Kenzo designers and Opening Ceremony founders Humberto Leon and Carol Lim to host a full-on Fourth of July BBQ a Paris. On Thursday, the pair invited guests such as André Saraiva, Rose McGowan, Sarah Andelman, Ellen von Unwerth, and Léa Seydoux to the Jardin d’Acclimatation, where they got their fix of hamburgers, hot dogs, fries, and nineties jams. The occasion (other than an Independence Day celebration for the visiting Américains) was the unveiling of Kenzo’s Fall ’13 campaign. This season, the designers teamed up with Toilet Paper magazine founders (and the evening’s cohosts) Maurizio Cattelan, Pierpaolo Ferrari, and Micol Talso, to create their imagery. The surreal ads (below) star Leon and Lim pals Rinko Kikuchi and Sean O’Pry, who pose among a cast of giant insects, gangs of mice, bananas, kittens hiding in boots, the Fall collection’s eye motif, and Cattelan’s favorite—the tiger dog.

Cattelan—an OC devotee—reported that he was pleasantly surprised when Leon and Lim called to collaborate, and described the shoot as a “creative laboratory.” In addition to appearing in Fall glossies, the ads will be featured in Kenzine—a limited-edition Toilet Paper-esque magazine—as well as on a capsule collection of sweatshirts and T-shirts, which will hit stores this September.

Continue Reading “Pledging Allegiance to Kenzo” »

Metal Heads

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Visionaire’s latest book, Issue 63: FOREVER, comes out on May 11. And this year, the project has been underwritten by G-Shock—the watchmaker known for its durable timepieces. What’s the tie-in, you might ask? Visionaire’s avant-garde edition is rendered entirely in metal, and features images by artists and fashion designers that have been either hammered or laser-etched into 9 x 12 inch plates. Thus, both the timepieces and the tome are, in essence, everlasting.

“The word indestructible is the catalyst—if G-Shock does the indestructible watch, we want to do the indestructible publication. It was a nice, tight concept,” said Cecilia Dean, Visionaire’s cofounder and editor in chief. G-Shock, who’s celebrating its thirtieth anniversary and a recent store opening in Soho, liked the pitch and came on board to sponsor the inevitably “expensive” production

The idea for an all-metal issue was spawned during Dean’s time spent with Givenchy’s Riccardo Tisci, while working on Visionaire’s Issue 60: RELIGION. “In religious iconography, there’s all this incredible metalwork, the metal on the altars, gold painting—it’s just so beautiful and rich,” said Dean, adding, “I have to say, it’s so funny, everything goes back to Riccardo—a big inspiration was also the Jay-Z and Kanye West album cover he designed,” referring to 2011′s Watch the Throne.

FOREVER features everyone from a nymph-like Kate Moss, shot by Mario Testino, to a Karl Lagerfeld-lensed in-the-buff Baptiste Giabiconi, to a suggestive Lady Gaga snapped by Inez & Vinoodh, to Linda Evangelista ringed in light by Maurizio Cattelan and Pierpaolo Ferrari. “It’s Linda as a saint, basically,” said Dean.

To commemorate the coupling, G-Shock will open a mini-retrospective of Visionaire’s past (above) in its downtown outpost tomorrow. The exhibition runs through the end of May.

Photos: Inez & Vinoodh/ Visionaire (Lady Gaga Plate); Courtesy of G-Shock (installation)

Today’s Mailbag: Flora, Fauna, Belgian Chocolate

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The latest in our occasional series spotlighting the fashion miscellany our faithful mail guy, Wayne, brings our way.
The holiday season brings with it warm wishes and, occasionally, succulents. The hardy little plant came courtesy of our friends at Wren in L.A., who sent a pair along with a copy of The Graduate on DVD; meanwhile, Belgium’s finest (Dries Van Noten), sent along Belgium’s finest (a pound-plus of milk chocolate). Rounding out the day’s haul are two of our favorite books of the season: The Best of Punk Magazine ($17.72, amazon.com), whence the “Punk playmate of the month” Debbie Harry spread above, and Toilet Paper ($65, artbook.com), the new compendium of Maurizio Cattelan and Pierpaolo Ferrari’s weirdo, wordless Toilet Paper ‘zines.

Photo: George Chinsee