28 posts tagged "Meadham Kirchhoff"
From J.W. Anderson‘s tube tops and frilled shorts (above right) to Meadham Kirchhoff‘s tunics and skirts to Sibling‘s fluffy cotton-candy-pink shorts, London’s up-and-coming designers put some extreme feminine twists on their Fall ’13 menswear collections. But while men (who aren’t Marc Jacobs or Andrej Pejic, that is) may be a little hesitant to jump on the gender-bending bandwagon, it would seem that women are, once again, craving an androgynous edge. The proof? Due to popular demand, menswear designers are creating looks tailored just for the ladies. For instance, as deputy editor Matthew Schneier reported from Pitti Uomo yesterday, Andrea Pompilio sent out nine cross-dressing girls (above left) before allowing his male models to walk the Fall runway. “They ask so many times for very petite sizes for women, so why not do it?” he said after the show. Over in London, E. Tautz‘s Patrick Grant was feeling the same pressure. “We just started a very small line of women’s shirts, which kicked off at the request of one of the stores in Japan—who came to our men’s show and asked if they could have small versions of our men’s shirts,” Grant told British Vogue, hinting that a full-on Savile Row-inspired womenswear range might be in his future (the shirt capsule will be available at Matches.com this spring). Of course, shes dressed like hes isn’t a revolutionary trend (Le Smoking, anyone?), but the overlap of his and hers styles in the men’s collections certainly has our attention. So, are designers pushing us to become a bunch of sexless style-ites? Hardly. But if you’re tempted to walk in the other gender’s shoes, Fall ’13′s menswear will more than afford you the opportunity.
The opening day of London’s menswear shows began by looking into the past. Things kicked off with a celebration of Belstaff’s new collaboration with Goodwood Racing (left). The lower-priced moto-inspired collection will launch with fanfare at Harrods next month. “In the history of British motor sports, Goodwood and Belstaff are almost inseparable,” said creative director Martin Cooper, who was looking forward to spending a day or two at the estate of his cohost, the Earl of March, racing’s unofficial peer. Featuring Lord March’s family tartan on waxed jackets and hidden inside linings, the new collection was worn by models perched on vintage bikes outside the members club where the presentation was held. The bikes belonged to Sammy Miller, Britain’s former number-one trials rider (now an avid collector). Not far away, Bally was celebrating history, too: its place as the boot supplier to Tenzing Norgay’s 1953 Everest expedition. A replica pair of the boots Norgay wore was displayed, but the new Everest collection was lighter and more city-friendly (case in point: the seamless, waterproof “double” hiking boot co-designer Graeme Fidler was enthusing over). Bally showed deerskin bags, too. They came in the form of expeditioner backpacks, but also, for the nonclimbers, as a weekender.
But it was the future that was on view at Fashion East, the clutch of up-and-comers installed at Carlton Gardens, Meadham Kirchhoff among them. Bobby Abley had rigged up a UFO craft with a spaceman model inside. More of this earth was Kit Neale’s greasy-spoon setup, with models lingering over plates of chips (left). Neale is a print-meister, preferring psychedelic patterns in brash colors, but this season he moved away from the digital prints he’s favored in the past and back toward more traditional screen-printing. Those played nicely off the hand-done Dalmatian dots of Joseph Turvey’s collection (shown alongside mewling pups), which had a graphic punchiness in black and white. Maarten van der Horst and Nasir Mazhar rounded out the lot.
If London needed a representative for the present between past and future, you could say Hunter Gather (left) took that spot. The brainchild of famed stylist and brand consultant David Bradshaw (his handiwork has shaped Versace, Jil Sander, and more), the new contemporary label and shop on Wigmore Street celebrated its official debut. There were great colorful knits (in raspberry and mustard), tailoring, and even shearling jackets. The easy-to-swallow pricing felt right for the here and now, as did the emphasis on sourcing insight from the crowd—from collaborators to the design team to friends Bradshaw’s made over the course of his career. “I’m the creative director,” Bradshaw said with a hint of modesty. “The ideas come from the collective.” And, he added in a bit of 2013 wisdom, the store is great, but “it’s all about the Web site.”
The Fall ’13 menswear collections begin this Monday in London, followed by the shows at Florence’s Pitti Uomo, in Milan, and in Paris. Before their shows, we’ll be breaking off tiny previews of what’s to come from some of the most anticipated names.
WHO: Meadham Kirchhoff
WHEN: Monday, January 7
WHERE: London, England
WHAT (TO EXPECT): “The collection is about devotion. It’s a surprise.” —Ed Meadham and Ben Kirchhoff, designers. The pair provided a glimpse at their inspiration, above.
Many of us here at Style.com are focused on streamlining our wardrobes with pared-down pieces for 2013. But the showy street-style set? Not so much. For those looking to attract the attention of Tommy Ton and Co. at the collections next month, more will still be more, particularly when it comes to accessories. Chanel’s oversize hula-hoop bag, the Alexander McQueen beekeeper hats, and Miuccia Prada’s towering Geta platforms are just the beginning of Spring’s offerings. How about Stephen Jones’ shattered-glass headpieces for Giles? Or the fabulously rococo bow-trimmed boots at Meadham Kirchhoff? Either of the above would surely whip the photobloggers into a frenzy. As for the colorful mink pumps Phoebe Philo put on her Céline runway, we’re betting on them as this season’s answer to Balenciaga’s ubiquitous Egyptofunk sweatshirts.
CLICK FOR A SLIDESHOW of eye-catching accessories.
It’s been quite a year. The world didn’t end (hurrah!), but it was shaken up by fashion feuds, historic designer switch-ups, and the roiling of the runway, the red carpet, and the street. (And that’s not even counting the election, the world economy, and the intricacies of the current geopolitical moment.)
We here at Style.com are taking the next few days off to gear up for what’s to come in 2013. We hope you’ll join us in putting on your best party dress (or suit, like this sequin number by Meadham Kirchhoff) and raising a glass to ring in the new. If you need any suggestions, our archive is your oyster: all the fashion the runway has to offer. Happy browsing. Here’s wishing you a very happy New Year; we’ll be back Wednesday, January 2.