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August 30 2014

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31 posts tagged "Meadham Kirchhoff"

Prints And Punks, In Town From London

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Many of London fashion’s young guns are in town this week for a few days of press appointments and sales at the behest of the London Showroom. It was a bit of a mad affair, with 20-odd designers and their Spring collections piled into a penthouse at the Soho Grand, but the mood fit the frenetic, often quite lovely collections.

It was hard not to love the eye-popping prints Holly Fulton screens on silk dresses and jersey shifts, then punches up with heaping handfuls of Swarovski crystals. There was a Lichtenstein-ish cloud print that would’ve suited a particularly chic cartoon character, and a spiky horsehair clutch to go along with. Prints were the word, too, at Mary Katrantzou’s interiors-inspired collection, which hits Barneys exclusively in the U.S. this season. She, too, got the Swarovski blessing (and a dip into the company coffers), which she used to create crystal-bedecked lampshade skirts and a great little multicolored cuff.

There were notes of soft color and texture for girls from Michael van der Ham and for blokes from Christopher Shannon. But it wasn’t all sweetness and light. There was a punk buzz emanating from a few strong collections, like Meadham Kirchhoff, Sibling, and Dominic Jones. Jones, a jeweler, softened punky studs into architectural, Deco shapes for his Spring ’11 collection—and shot it on Alice Dellal, something of a softened punky herself (left). And the knitwear trio of Sibling—who, incidentally, have a Topshop line, Sister by Sibling, in the offing—banged on to that beat, too. One intarsia’ed sweater depicted the Statue of Liberty sporting a mohawk; another piece, a collaboration with the English artists Tim Noble and Sue Webster, famous for their neon-light word pieces, blared “GIRLFRIEND FROM HELL” and “PUNY UNDERNOURISHED KID” in embroidery on a cotton sweatsuit. Their best gave Robert Indiana’s famous LOVE painting a dressing down (right). As the Beatles once said (or didn’t they?), “All You Need Is Punk.”

Photos: Courtesy of Dominic Jones; Courtesy of Sibling

Ask The Experts: Favorites Of London Fashion Week

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London fashion week is drawing to a close, and the fashion set is headed for Milan tomorrow, where Gucci opens the week. But as we’ve scooted around town for the innumerable parties, shows, presentations, and teas (this is London, after all), we’ve been asking everyone along to name their picks. Below, a few of London’s finest sound off on what they liked.

“I thought Peter Pilotto was outstanding.” —Jefferson Hack (He was cautious to add, “But it’s not over yet—a lot more could happen.”)

“The bags at Topshop were amazing, and it had a lot of tasseled dresses and swimsuits. I really, really liked it.” —Julia Restoin-Roitfeld

“I saw Erdem, which was beautiful. The whole setting was perfect for it and what a perfect day for it! I [also] liked Roksanda [Illincic]. The colors were beautiful and also the fabrics she used were so soft.” —Browns’ Mrs. B

“I’ve loved a lot of things, actually. Meadham Kirchhoff, I thought was amazing. I thought they really honed their aesthetic—[there was] some continuity of what they did last season but better, I think. Also, I really, really loved Holly Fulton, Erdem, Louise Gray, Richard Nicoll…the list goes on, to be honest!” —Style Bubble’s Susie Lau

“My absolute favorite, hands down, has been Meadham Kirchhoff (left), without a doubt! It was so excellently executed, so beautifully layered. The colors were amazing. They basically did what Courtney Love should have done back in the nineties!” —Browns buyer Erin Mullaney

Photo: Marcus Tondo / GoRunway.com

J Brand, The Erdem (And Kane, Pilotto, Nicoll, And Meadham Kirchhoff) Way

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What works in New York won’t always work in London, but fair to say that collaborating with some of the city’s hottest young designers on limited-edition denim is good business here and across the pond. So following J Brand’s Proenza Schouler jean collab, CEO Jeff Rudes decided to extend the work-together spirit in England, too. The 5×5 project calls upon five of London’s best designers and labels (Christopher Kane, Peter Pilotto, Richard Nicoll, Meadham Kirchhoff, and Erdem) to put their spin on J Brand’s wares. Kane went camo (hey, we’ve been feeling that print, too!), Nicoll put in leather panels, Meadham Kirchhoff patched a rough-and-tumble boy-cut pair, and Pilotto got powdery, and Erdem—for his first denim design—chose soft blue florals. Each pair is available at a single London retailer (from Harvey Nicks to Browns), but stateside admirers can get them at Jeffrey New York and Intermix Online this Friday.
Pictured above, clockwise from top left: Jeans designed by Christopher Kane, Meadham Kirchhoff, Peter Pilotto, Erdem, and Richard Nicoll.

Photos: Courtesy of J Brand

Meet Meadham Kirchhoff’s Topshop Muse: Their Assistant

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When Topshop invited Meadham Kirchhoff to design a limited-edition collection, designers Ben Kirchhoff and Ed Meadham didn’t have to look far for a muse. After beginning with a piece of antique beading as a reference and diving into fabric development, the duo turned their eyes to their young assistant Erin. “She’s 21, and she falls into the target demographic,” Kirchhoff says, “but she’s also one of the coolest girls and she has a really great personal style. Lots of wispy layers of black and random bits and bobs.” Said assistant even wound up modeling the collection—including structured tees and asymmetrical, bias-cut, and glittery baby-doll dresses—for the official lookbook. We’re pretty sure she’s now got the full set. Anyone else who wants to get their hands on the items better hurry, though—the range arrives today at Topshop, and only 65 pieces of each style have been produced.

Photo: Harley Weir

From Buckingham Palace To The Empire State

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Fresh off an audience with Queen Elizabeth at Buckingham Palace, Peter Pilotto, Todd Lynn, Mark Fast, and other London up-and-comers are in New York this week showing off their Fall wares. The designers are squired away in the penthouse of the Soho Grand from now until Thursday afternoon, but a few arrived in time to enjoy the sunny weekend weather. Louise Gray hit the Chelsea flea market with Ed Meadham and Ben Kirchhoff, where she scooped up piles of Guatemalan textiles and Meadham bought lots of little dolls. A few tiny porcelain arms were strung on his leather cord necklace, and it’s not a stretch to imagine them showing up one way or another at the duo’s next show. These are the men, after all, whose orders went way up after their Christmas ornament-inspired collection hit the runway. (In case you were wondering, Ikram Goldman bought the pipe cleaner tiaras.) Other designers are sticking around this weekend. Holly Fulton, for her part, is planning a trip to the Empire State Building, a fitting destination for a talent whose breakout Spring show featured prints and embroideries of Art Deco-style buildings not unlike the New York landmark. Her main goal, however, is finding a U.S. store to stock her distinctive new bejeweled snakeskin shift dresses (pictured), which take their inspiration from the Parisian stained glass artist Louis Barillet. Are you listening, retailers?

Photo: Marcio Madeira / FirstView.com