29 posts tagged "Meadham Kirchhoff"
What works in New York won’t always work in London, but fair to say that collaborating with some of the city’s hottest young designers on limited-edition denim is good business here and across the pond. So following J Brand’s Proenza Schouler jean collab, CEO Jeff Rudes decided to extend the work-together spirit in England, too. The 5×5 project calls upon five of London’s best designers and labels (Christopher Kane, Peter Pilotto, Richard Nicoll, Meadham Kirchhoff, and Erdem) to put their spin on J Brand’s wares. Kane went camo (hey, we’ve been feeling that print, too!), Nicoll put in leather panels, Meadham Kirchhoff patched a rough-and-tumble boy-cut pair, and Pilotto got powdery, and Erdem—for his first denim design—chose soft blue florals. Each pair is available at a single London retailer (from Harvey Nicks to Browns), but stateside admirers can get them at Jeffrey New York and Intermix Online this Friday.
Pictured above, clockwise from top left: Jeans designed by Christopher Kane, Meadham Kirchhoff, Peter Pilotto, Erdem, and Richard Nicoll.
When Topshop invited Meadham Kirchhoff to design a limited-edition collection, designers Ben Kirchhoff and Ed Meadham didn’t have to look far for a muse. After beginning with a piece of antique beading as a reference and diving into fabric development, the duo turned their eyes to their young assistant Erin. “She’s 21, and she falls into the target demographic,” Kirchhoff says, “but she’s also one of the coolest girls and she has a really great personal style. Lots of wispy layers of black and random bits and bobs.” Said assistant even wound up modeling the collection—including structured tees and asymmetrical, bias-cut, and glittery baby-doll dresses—for the official lookbook. We’re pretty sure she’s now got the full set. Anyone else who wants to get their hands on the items better hurry, though—the range arrives today at Topshop, and only 65 pieces of each style have been produced.
Fresh off an audience with Queen Elizabeth at Buckingham Palace, Peter Pilotto, Todd Lynn, Mark Fast, and other London up-and-comers are in New York this week showing off their Fall wares. The designers are squired away in the penthouse of the Soho Grand from now until Thursday afternoon, but a few arrived in time to enjoy the sunny weekend weather. Louise Gray hit the Chelsea flea market with Ed Meadham and Ben Kirchhoff, where she scooped up piles of Guatemalan textiles and Meadham bought lots of little dolls. A few tiny porcelain arms were strung on his leather cord necklace, and it’s not a stretch to imagine them showing up one way or another at the duo’s next show. These are the men, after all, whose orders went way up after their Christmas ornament-inspired collection hit the runway. (In case you were wondering, Ikram Goldman bought the pipe cleaner tiaras.) Other designers are sticking around this weekend. Holly Fulton, for her part, is planning a trip to the Empire State Building, a fitting destination for a talent whose breakout Spring show featured prints and embroideries of Art Deco-style buildings not unlike the New York landmark. Her main goal, however, is finding a U.S. store to stock her distinctive new bejeweled snakeskin shift dresses (pictured), which take their inspiration from the Parisian stained glass artist Louis Barillet. Are you listening, retailers?
If you want to distill the difference between the London fashion scene and the New York fashion scene down to a single particular, this isn’t a bad one: Whereas your typical New York It girl tends to show up to a crowded after-party in something sleek and recently off-the-runway, in London, she wears a vintage bathing suit, fishnets, and a banana on her head. That, at any rate, was the look Noisettes front woman Shingai Shoniwa was working at the Vivienne Westwood party at the St Martins Lane Hotel last night. “Oy, my hair wasn’t working tonight so I put the hat on,” she explained.
And why not? The guy across the room is wearing rhinestone-crusted football pads, and the one elbowing his way to a drink at the bar is kitted out like a goth Robin Hood, after all. Taken individually, some of these outfits border on the ridiculous. Taken together, they put the flights of fancy by London designers into a useful context. A collection inspired by Christmas trees? Why not, says Meadham Kirchhoff. Models wearing crowns made out of pipe cleaners and cake decoration? Why not, says Nasir Mazhar, the Gaga-approved milliner who made the crowns for the label’s Fall ’10 show. A jewelry collection comprising cast vampire bat skulls, scorpions, and giant squid mandibles? Why not, says Dominic Jones.
Jones presented his new collection—his second—on Saturday night at a cocktail party at the Sanctum Soho Hotel. Like his debut, the collection taps a vein of the macabre. Jones explained that he was thinking of predators this time around, and that he’d sourced the skeletons for his metal-cast baubles from college research laboratories, taxidermists, and, in the case of that giant squid, from a fisherman in Japan who caught the thing and posted its jaw to Jones via express mail. “I’m always interested in taking something frightening and making it beautiful,” he noted. “Sort of like, agghhh becomes aahhhh…”
Hannah Martin, another of England’s up-and-coming jewelry designers, works the opposite way. The Cartier-trained Martin makes fine jewelry of incredible refinement, but with an edge of danger; for her second collaboration with designer Hannah Marshall, Martin honed that edge to switchblade sharpness. (That’s her ring, pictured, with Marshall’s clothing.) “This season, it was lots of slashes and slicing, and early images of Grace Jones,” Martin says of the inspirations for her catwalk costume jewels. As for their collaboration, call it kismet—or call it similar names and a publicist in common. The poor guy was constantly fielding requests for Hannah Martin dresses and Hannah Marshall rings. After that, says Martin, “we figured we might as well start working together.” Why not?