5 posts tagged "Meadham Kirchoff"
Is it us, or do sunglasses just keep getting freakier? Thanks to a bevy of designers this Spring ’14 season, it appears that statement making will soon trump solar protection—but for results this OTT, we’re willing to endure a bit of a glare.
In New York, Jeremy Scott offered cat-eyes striped in “We’re experiencing technical difficulties” color-blocks. Prabal Gurung put his own spin on vibrant cat-eye shades, trimming them with asymmetrical shapes. Over in London, Meadham Kirchhoff showed a gilded, bat-wing pair—part The Matrix, part baroque Transylvania. Meanwhile, the XL shields that hid models’ peepers at KTZ could very well double as ski goggles. Across the Channel were, perhaps, the cheekiest iterations of all: Jean-Charles de Castelbajac sent hilarious pursed-lip specs and frames shaped to read “Glamour” down his Paris runway. No doubt, the look-at-me street-style set will be optically satiated come spring.
Perhaps it was The Great Gatsby‘s influence, but there was a lot of pink on the Spring ’14 menswear catwalks. However, while Jay Gatsby favored rosebud three-piece suits, designers this season employed the hue for their footwear.
In London, Edward Meadham and Benjamin Kirchhoff showed Crayola-pink rain boots in their eponymous collection. The boys added some of their signature kitsch by printing grinning Cheshire cat-like faces on the toes. Similarly, Tom Ford paired one of his bright, slim, dandyish looks with magenta tiger-striped slippers.
Further down the circuit, Raf Simons used pink banding across boots at his own label, while Hedi Slimane whipped up pointy-toed rockabilly booties in Barbie blush at Saint Laurent. Antwerpen provocateur Walter Van Beirendonck rounds out the bunch, having embellished his folk-inspired wingtips with roseate phalli. The kicks lent new credence to the term “foot fetish.”
Sheers were regulars on the trend circuit long before Beyoncé appeared at the 2012 Met Gala wearing a diaphanous Givenchy gown. The look’s staying power comes from its versatility. “Unlike other fabrics,” explained fashion consultant Yasmin Sewell, “a single layer allows a designer to explore possibilities in depth and illusion.”
A quiet translucence has taken effect on the womenswear front. Sass & Bide (above, center) showed a Resort ’14 collection with long, sheer panels over simple skirts. Vera Wang traded minimalism for romance by piling on the sheer layers. In one instance, a delicate dot-pattern shift appeared underneath another shift embroidered with matte paillettes. Known for his cool and straightforward aesthetic, Phillip Lim (above, right) produced sheer shorts in white and blue for his latest play-while-you-work collection.
When it came to sheers in menswear, London-based designers were among the first to experiment. The various incarnations were far more structured, referencing traditional tailoring. Meadham Kirchhoff (above, left) offered a lineup of translucent jackets crafted from yellow-tinged and cloudy green rubber. Benjamin Kirchhoff denied any sort of deeper meaning in its use, but he did confess to being moved by the fabric’s texture. Christopher Shannon (above, center) went so far as to wet sheer nylon in an effort to capture an out-all-night-clubbing vibe. “I’d never want it to look too soft, so we used some really fine nylons as layers this season,” Shannon told Style.com. “It’s something that felt modern and sporty but had fluidity.”
If the seven designers featured in Lulu Kennedy’s Fashion East menswear installation have anything in common, it’s that not one of them is a shrinking violet. Color, chaos, and cartoons burst forth, with Joseph Turvey (above) and Kit Neale paving the way. Neale, who once worked with Gareth Pugh, paid homage to Peckham (a part of London that makes Shoreditch seem absolutely gentrified) by printing a cartoonish map of the neighborhood on trousers. Turvey explained that he “loves flowers,” and there they were, blooming on a range of shirts. His explosive hues also turned up on a pair of baggy, Rothko-inspired trousers, and on the models’ hair, which was dyed pink and green.
Liam Hodges—whose models were getting a morning beer buzz while wearing his knitted, “garish,” multicolored stadium ponchos—told us that he creates “luxury that doesn’t cater to the highborns.” Meanwhile, Craig Green—the MAN designer who famously customized David Beckham’s Adidas sneakers for the Olympic celebrations—showcased a painterly range of footwear (below), which he made in collaboration with Purified. “I think these shoes will sell like crazy,” said Kennedy, adding that they were a smart way to subtly incorporate color into one’s look.
Another uniting aspect of the collections was a military theme. Meadham Kirchhoff showed vintage military footage during their presentation upstairs, and Marques’Almeida—which debuted its first menswear outing—displayed navy-and-black-camo denim looks with unfinished hems. To cap it off—literally—Tom Ryling’s models wore military berets, which for more than one onlooker evoked an image of Prince Harry in uniform.
While watching over her talents, Lulu offered a little bit of insight into this season’s LC:M. “I’ve seen things normally reserved for women, like floral, lace, and frills,” she said. “For sure, the fashion types will wear it. But really, these details are all so incredible, I hope they will trickle down into the mainstream.” Here’s hoping, Lulu.
Style.com’s Sarah Mower hosted the opening brunch yesterday for London Showrooms, a seven day showcase for London’s bright young things, of which there seems to be a great many these days. Editors and retailers poured into a Rue de Richelieu gallery to get up-close-and-personal with newcomers like Erdem Moralioglu, the Meadham Kirchoff duo, Mary Katrantzou, and their very-sophisticated-for-London wares. Todd Lynn said buyers expressed strong interest in a tailored wool jacket with trompe l’oeil leather sleeves and a dickey. “They always tell me that underpinnings for tailoring are their biggest problem,” he said of the stores that he works with. Not so long ago, London designers had a rep for a complete disregard for what sells. Not this generation. The showcase runs from 10 a.m. to 7 p.m. everyday until March 12 at 40 Rue de Richelieu.