7 posts tagged "Menswear"
The fashion world is getting to know the name Todd Snyder, and he’s working hard to make sure it’s one they won’t forget. The New York-based menswear designer earned a CFDA Swarovski nomination this year, which put him in a category with Phillip Lim and Antonio Azzuolo, and was also tapped as a GQ Best New Menswear Designer pick. In between finishing up his Gap capsule collection (launching in October) and prepping his New York fashion week show, he made a visit to Tokyo to visit his denim factory (and have a little fun, too), and sent back the shots below.
“Checking out the selvage shuttle looms at Kuroki denim mills, the best denim in Japan. It’s the Mercedes of denim and chino. All of our selvage chino comes from there.”
“Tats on my left with Mr. Kuroki to my right—the mills are second-generation family-owned. They are so proud of their factory and product. How cool does Mr. Kuroki look in dark rolled-up denim jeans? He’s 60 years old.” Continue Reading “Todd Snyder’s Postcard From Tokyo” »
When one door closes, another one opens. Filmmaker Mel Bles applied that old adage quite literally to her new short movie for Fendi, titled Arrival, reflecting the optimism of Silvia Venturini Fendi’s latest menswear collection. In a lab-like setting, a door opens and a male model (clad in Fendi Spring 2013, which makes its runway debut tonight) walks out and then disappears from the frame just as quickly. According to the label, “The video materializes the dichotomy of the collection, its futurism: the point of arrival, here, is also the point of departure.” Style.com has an exclusive first look at the collection and the film.
In recent years—with only a few notable exceptions—former Dior Homme designer Hedi Slimane has preferred to be seen (through his photographs, for magazines and on his frequently updated online Diary) than heard. But for the April of Menswear, published by Women’s Wear Daily, Slimane sat down with the magazine’s Miles Socha for a Q&A. The full interview—in advance of the publication of Anthology of a Decade, a four-volume edition of the designer-turned-lensman’s photographs, including the one above—arrives on newsstands and online on Monday. Below, an exclusive preview.
Has being a photographer given you a more objective view of the fashion industry?
Hedi Slimane: It seems quite refreshing to be on this side of fashion, to have the distance and freedom. The fashion system has been busy keeping up with broadband and blogging/social networking. It is not always for the best, but it did give fashion a global audience. The unfortunate outcome might be the obsession and collusion between the celebrity culture and high fashion. It is just a big global mess of random endorsement. Nothing looks worse than a dress or a suit on a red carpet. It is an ongoing tragedy of cheap fashion on cheap celebrities, followed by ubercheap comments. I only like designers’ clothes on models. Good models have an inner understanding of the clothes and design.
Any predictions about the next big look?
I would need to be back in an atelier to answer you…But we should drop for good this predictable story each season about a lean and youthful male figure versus conventional men’s wear and male proportions. There is obviously room for everything…Besides, an athletic man, or whatever you want to call him, will only look good in a very classic suit, a pair of classic jeans, athletic clothes, or simply naked. Forget fashion. This is not going to happen, unless you want to look like a Chippendales dancer in designer clothes…And by “fashion,” I mean men’s fashion at the same level as women’s. This is what I always pursued during my design years, defending the idea of men’s fashion rather than men’s wear.
For the ladies, J.Crew’s Jenna Lyons went for more, more, more—more flowers, more sequins, more fur, more jewels. But for the label’s men’s collection, Frank Muytjens and his team played it a shade more subdued. Good thinking. What’s good for the goose isn’t necessarily good for the gander, after all, and the guy J.Crew is courting isn’t a fashion plate—he’s a regular guy who just happens to like to look good. There are a lot of those across the U.S., so no wonder the stuff’s been flying off the shelves.
The palette, accordingly, was restrained, a tonal mix of slate grays (“lifted from Brancusi’s sculptures,” Muytjens told Style.com), oatmeals, khakis, and army greens. Tailoring continues to be a point of focus, and the best-selling Ludlow suit showed up again this season in a variety of new iterations, among them cashmere herringbone tweed. (“Navy tweed—how come nobody thought of that before?” asked the presentation’s stylist, Jack O’Connor, who doubles as jcrew.com’s Ask Jack advice guru. Somebody has, the sticklers will say, but that’s no reason not to be glad of its reappearance.) There’s a military-inspired, guy’s-guy ease to the collection, which doesn’t move it too far forward from recent seasons past, but what worked then works now. These aren’t meant to be statement clothes—”you won’t be shot by the Sartorialist,” O’Connor promises—unless that statement is attention to detail. So the suit jackets are nipped just a bit to hug the body, the 484 jeans walk the fine line between slim and skinny (and non-selvedge pairs run under $100). Collaborations remain a strong suit: J.Crew’s down vest and coat come courtesy of Seattle’s Crescent Down Works, the mocs from the blogger-beloved Russell Moccasin Co., not merely styled into the show and the shops but for the first time designed in conjunction with Muytjens. Good business it may be—shopping guys love a heritage brand, after all—but there’s an enthusiasm behind it that’s hard to fake. “The Russell moccasins are my personal favorites; I’m wearing them now,” Muytjens said rapturously after the presentation. “They’re so amazing. We went to see the factory [in Berlin, Wisconsin] and worked with the owner—we were basically on the floor with all of those beautiful shoes…” The enthusiasm’s catching. More, more, more.
Results are in: Robert Geller has been named GQ and the CFDA’s Best New Menswear Designer in America. The winnings? $50,000 cash and a limited-edition collection for Levi’s. The 32-year-old Hamburg-born designer was anointed by a panel composed of Thom Browne, CFDA executive director Steven Kolb, GQ creative director Jim Moore, GQ editor in chief Jim Nelson, Levi’s VP of merchandising Steve Evans, and Kevin Harter, VP of fashion direction for Bloomingdale’s. That makes it an awfully big day for Geller, who’s also showing this evening (and couldn’t be reached for comment). When we caught up with him at the contest’s Wednesday night presentation party (read our party report here), he was trying not to lose the “mellow vibe” of the menswear industry. “You’re presenting what you have, so it’s a little bit of a passive role. But it’s a competition in the end, and you do want to win it.” Which is why, later tonight, Geller is going to have some not-so-mellow celebrating to do. Next stop, womenswear?