22 posts tagged "Menswear"
Menswear label Tiger of Sweden was founded back in 1903 but only just made its London catwalk debut yesterday. The Swedish, albeit Danish-owned label known for its skinny suits unveiled a collection loosely based around the cult gang movie The Warriors from 1979. Here, the film translated into a nighttime palette of black, gray, and white, with rust and teal as color accents. The collection as a whole took on the current menswear obsession of mixing tailoring and sporty separates.
“To make the collection more fashion, we added the casual part of our range into the main one,” Tiger of Sweden designer Ronnie McDonald explained, as he motioned toward a baseball-inspired striped shirt and tracksuit bottoms paired with a suit jacket.
A dressy bomber jacket was made of flannel rather than wool (“I wanted something that looked like wool but was lighter”), while leather sleeves were added to a midnight blue hybrid of a lapel-less suit jacket and bomber. A new, slightly oversize suit shape was also introduced alongside Tiger’s popular skinny version, though it was still shown with cropped trousers. “People think it’s easy making a skinny suit. It’s not,” McDonald told us. “But we need another silhouette as well, a looser fit. We have to look forward.”
From the Operating Room to Sumba, Fashion East’s Menswear Designers Find Inspiration in Unlikely Places-------
Fashion East Men’s latest outing was inventive even by its high standards, proof that Lulu Kennedy’s talent farm keeps producing the best of breed. It started with a clinical and slightly sinister jewelry collection from Alan Crocetti (the man behind the mouthpieces at Bobby Abley’s MAN Fall 2014 show). The goods were inspired by the external fixtures that hold surgically inserted pins in a broken bone. There were a couple firsts in the jewelry world: a “palm ring” (a band that wrapped around the hand) and a silver tab placed above the nose in the same way a bandage would appear after rhinoplasty surgery (pictured, below).
Next up was textile specialist Edward Crutchley, who became obsessed with ikat prints after a recent trip to Sumba, Indonesia. Ikat is a busy pattern to begin with, but that didn’t stop the designer from layering one look with leggings, shorts, and a tunic in the print.
Marques’Almeida carried on its love affair with deconstructed, raw-edged denim, taking a cue from its own FW 2014 women’s collection. Loose, slouchy denim with raw hems said hip kids on a road trip.
A surprise last-minute guest was the California-born, British-educated Shaun Samson, who, after some visa issues, came back to London late last night. Models lounging around cots in a “tent” sported board shorts with doodle prints, graphic thunderclap sweaters, and Boy Scout scarves. Talk about camp.
The final designer, Martine Rose, a Fashion East veteran who was invited back for this outing, was brief in her presentation—just one look of her trademark baggy sweatpants combined with a long leather jacket and knit turtleneck (pictured, below). The ensemble was a teaser for a larger project she has slated for the fall with a top photographer, but for now she remains tight-lipped on the details.
“The Mayfair boy has gotten a bit comfortable and has gotten a bit daring,” Jimmy Choo creative director Sandra Choi told us after the brand’s first full-on men’s runway show in London. Citing British photographer John Deakin’s black-and-white street portraits as a starting point for the Spring 2015 collection of mint green, croc-stamped deck shoes and patent loafers, she added, “He wants to venture out, definitely beyond the center of London. There’s more grit, but he’s relaxed.”
The overall look was dressed down, partly thanks to Katie Grand, who styled the shoes and bags with easy separates. A closer look at the shoes, however, revealed thoughtful details that were anything but casual. There were shiny silver and gold sneaker soles that, apparently, are treated in such a way to prevent fade. And that multicolored airbrushed accenting applied to a high-top dubbed Belgravia was no mere runway novelty: When the shoes hit stores, no two will be identical. As for the 3-D injection molded rubber brogue ornamentation on the toe caps of a traditional lace-up, Choi described it as “pure, but rich at the same time.”
The overall street theme left little room for polished dress shoes, save for the printed jacquard slipper topped with an emerald green tassel. Those had the most refined construction of the lot.
With the World Cup now in full swing, sport was on the mind as London Collections: Men kicked off on Sunday, not least for Matthew Harding and Levi Palmer of Palmer//Harding. The transatlantic duo showed an expanded menswear collection with an athletic twist—a fashion film starring Sam Oldham, one of Team GB’s 2012 Olympic gymnasts
“Well, we started going to the gym about nine weeks ago, and that’s kind of how it came about,” joked Harding, the English half of the couple, of a line that featured boxy shapes drawn from the functionality of vintage collegiate uniforms. Using Palmer//Harding’s now-signature white shirts as a jumping-off point, new colors and fabrics were introduced for Spring 2015, including a striking metallic leather on shirt collars that crumples and bends when crushed.
Another first for the pair was the introduction of print—a distinctive mélange of gray, brown, and turquoise. “We were looking a lot at urban surfaces and textures—when those really naff billboards start to wear away and you see the really worn background through that, like chipped foam,” the designers explained. “We wanted to take those raw, otherwise ugly elements and find some beauty in those aged elements of the city.”
The accompanying film featured Oldham, the 21-year-old gymnast who won bronze as part of Great Britain’s team at the 2012 Olympic Games, flexing his muscles alongside a look-alike model wearing the clothes themselves. “Menswear polarizes into either the street, sportswear side, or the dandy, and we’re neither, we’re somewhere in the middle,” said Harding.
The designers stood guard in the pristine white shirts that have garnered fashionable fans on both sides of the Atlantic. “We wear a lot of our own shirts, of course, and we’re neither dandy nor sporty. But I do love how the gym switches your mind off. We’re very disciplined in our work, and it’s nice to apply that to something else in our lives, to turn your brain completely off—that’s such a rarity nowadays.”
Nicholas Kirkwood’s debut presentation for his men’s line came via his S/S 2015 outing at London’s Mercer Street Studios, where derbies, oxfords, and brogues took center stage. The standout detail was the chevron sole, a pattern that has become a bit of a signature for the designer. (It even once appeared on the Galaxy Note 3 phone flip-cover for his collaboration with Samsung.) Is the chevron pattern becoming Kirkwood’s red sole? “Not quite,” the designer told Style.com. “Mr. Louboutin uses [red] on all his soles, while my chevron made a cameo as an accent on just a few of the styles. I just really love the modernity of the pattern.”
Designed “for the bloke whose girlfriend loves to wear great shoes,” Kirkwood’s collection has something for everyone, including a few very cool sandals. Of the sandals, which are new to the Kirkwood repertoire, one male observer at the presentation said to his friend, “Man, these are dope.” We agree with him on that.
The designer also told us his newish alliance with LVMH helped him not only cut through the tiresome admin, but enabled him to “undertake more testing, experiment with more materials, and develop the collection further.” That came through loud and clear with some innovative uses in leather, including shoes with high-shine spazzolato leather, as well as rubberized and foil-laminated leathers. Untrammeled creativity continued with splashes of neon and very cool colors, like blush pink and mint green. Then there were candy-stripe accents, basket-weave details, and contrasting orange lace details—all of which had just enough high-fashion elements to make that girlfriend jealous, but then pulled back a bit just when it was heading over the top. It was an enlightened offering that underscored Kirkwood rightful membership in the LVMH club.