3 posts tagged "Michael Sontag"
Throughout Berlin fashion week, Alonso Dominguez will report back on the best and brightest shows. To view our complete coverage, click here.
The last day of Berlin fashion week kicked off with Issever Bahri (left)—a young label (founded in 2010) designed by German-Turkish duo Derya Issever and Cimen Bachri. For Fall ’13, the pair put forth a minimal, neutral collection of long silk shirts and oversize knits. These were worn with black leather trousers and short skirts in wool velvet. Demure dresses brought a youthful femininity to the collection.
Over at Vladimir Karaleev, deconstruction was the name of the game. The conceptual designer sent men and women in unfinished gabardine, wool, and rubber garments down his runway. Key looks included a cream woven sweater with a mesh detail that exposed the model’s torso and a cropped see-through-plastic electric blue jacket with faux-fur sleeves.
At Dawid Tomaszewski, one of the most anticipated shows of the week, there were smoky-eyed models wearing sculptural black and dark gray looks in leather and silk. Applications like rubber patches on tights and copper-colored metallic belts and cummerbunds gave the collection a futuristic feel, while baded embroidery and carefully tailored jackets and capes were evidence of the designer’s attention to detail.
Michael Michalsky’s show—the last of the evening—was held at an off-site location. For men, there were rolled-up trousers, dark blazers, and leather jackets. Illustrator Bendix Bauer designed Michalsky’s custom Fall print, which appeared on trousers, shirts, and a suit. For the ladies, the designer showed long silk and lace dresses and skirts paired with thick coats, dark blazers, or sequined jackets. Mini polka dots covered aqua blouses and long skirts, and the black chiffon finale gown—nipped at the waist with a bowed belt—closed the show (and for that matter, Berlin fashion week) with a flash of drama.
Mercedes-Benz Berlin Fashion Week is under way in the German capital. All week, reporter Hili Perlson will be sending back dispatches from the scene.
Day two of Berlin’s fashion week saw a change in direction, with many of the labels sending more mature and subtle creations down the runway, compared to the previous day. Black and white combinations ruled the palette, often with a minty pastel green or a bright tangerine for contrast.
Hugo by Hugo Boss (pictured) transformed an ice skating rink into a catwalk. White carpet replaced the ice, much to the chagrin of guests—including Kate Bosworth, Jessica Joffe, and China Chow—hoping for a break from the heat wave. The womenswear included A-line dresses with a below-the-knee cut, worn with geometric tops that gave the silhouette a futuristic look. Asymmetric shoulders made a big return at Hugo, accentuated with thin strips in a reflective metallic material. On the menswear front, standout pieces were a two-tone suit in black and white, with electric blue and red that melted on the border, and a playful suit jacket/blouson combination.
The collection of rising star Michael Sontag (a favorite of Vogue Germany editor in chief Christiane Arp) showed a strong development of the designer’s aesthetic, which is characterized by a special ability to do very feminine cuts without going über-femme. Extra fabric lining the contours on pants created a trompe l’oeil effect of round skirts and transformed tops into light sculptured capes. The show’s highlight was a wide charcoal overcoat in rich natural silk.
Romanian designer Irina Schrotter closed the day. This season, Schrotter, whose career spans two decades, entrusted her label to young avant-garde designer Lucian Broscatean, who gave the line his signature smart elegance. High-slit dresses in sand, nude, sheer white, and pale pink made up the core of the collection, matched with pieces in tangerine and bronze. The accessories drew inspiration from the art of Chinese contemporary artist Ai Weiwei, giving the clean looks a crafty touch.
On some of the stages at Berlin fashion week, the mood was a little…matronly. German fashion has the reputation for being stringent, but the many shows this season just felt conservative, or too kooky, and in need of a little juice. Luckily, a few designers provided for a much-needed jolt of energy. Michael Sontag’s artfully tailored collection was ageless and elegant. And on the opposite end of the spectrum, Michael Michalsky’s supremely showy show was extravagant. He called the collection “Heinrich Zille’s ‘Mein Milljöh’—Version 2.0,” inspired by the iconic caricaturist’s turn-of-the-century cartoons of class struggle; the clothes may have paid tribute to the struggle, but the opulent party afterward was all ruling-class. (That’s Michalsky, pictured left.) A crowd of 2,000 guests, including the ones from the night’s preceding Lala Berlin and Kaviar Gauche shows, grooved to the cult eighties band Spandau Ballet and DJ Hell. The result was pure Broadway. Michalsky’s tuxes (for men and women) and disco-silver jumpsuits didn’t exactly scream Zille, but why be a stickler? No one was matronly here, thank you very much, and all hand-wringing about the economy was, for a night, put to rest.