8 posts tagged "Michael Van Der Ham"
The Spring ’14 collections are under way in London, and will be followed by the shows in Milan and Paris. Before their new clothes hit the runway, we’ve asked some of the most anticipated names to offer a sneak peek. Per usual, it’s a busy time for all—designers and fashion followers alike—so we’re continuing our split-second previews: tweet-length previews at 140 characters or less. Our entire selection of Spring ’14 previews is available here.
WHO: Michael van der Ham
WHEN: Monday, September 16
WHAT: “Specially engineered fabrics, like appliqués with embossed fil coupe jacquards, Swarovski crystal embroidered brocades, and printed textiles.”— Michael van der Ham. The designer sent us a glimpse at on of his Spring ’14 fabrics, above.
Björk’s music videos tend to skate closer to art films than to the usual MTV fare, so no surprise that her latest—”Mutual Core,” from her album Biophilia—is premiering at Los Angeles’ Museum of Contemporary Art. The Icelandic avant-popster worked with the L.A.-based director Andrew Thomas Huang, whose short film Solipsist won special mention at Cannes. For “Mutual Core,” the duo set the earth in motion—literally. Shot over two days in Iceland, the video depicts the singer as a sorceress commanding rocks to come up out of the ground and collide with each other.
“I thought of it as a parallel between how much pressure and energy it takes for two tectonic plates to push together and form a mutual core,” Huang said of the concept. “It takes that same amount of effort to bring two people together.” And the core’s center, the sorceress herself, with garb to match. “We needed a textural look for this rocky universe that she was in,” Huang said. He ultimately decided on a dress from London designer Michael van der Ham. “He works in a lot of collage and it’s just my palette,” Huang explained. Not to be outdone, Björk added her own finishing touch: an out-of-this-world blue wig.
“Mutual Core” screens for free all day today at L.A. MOCA, 250 South Grand Ave., L.A., and online tomorrow at MOCAtv.
Balenciaga lately got a museum exhibition in San Francisco, but the late Spanish couturier is about to have a home to call his own—and in his hometown, no less. Queen Sofia of Spain inaugurated the Balenciaga Institute in his native Getaria, which showcases 90 of his designs; it opens to the public on Friday. [Racked]
Natalia Vodianova is spreading the love. This year, the model, who hosts a yearly charity Love Ball for the Naked Heart Foundation, has asked 40 of her designer friends to create dresses for auction at Christie’s. [Modelinia]
Everything’s coming up Koma. London designer David Koma is one of the several designers who, it was announced last night, will be supported by London’s NEWGEN sponsorship for the upcoming season. He shares the distinction with fellow young talents Holly Fulton, Mary Katrantzou, Louise Gray, and Michael Van Der Ham. [Vogue U.K.]
Karl Lagerfeld has yet to make his first venture in comic books, but in the meantime, he’s adding crystal to the list of his innumerable side projects. The designer has teamed up with Orrefors to create a line of crystal stemware and vases, launching this fall. What better glass for your custom Karl-designed can of Diet Coke? [WWD]
It’s surely a coincidence—right?—that the first day the London Showrooms and its clutch of young designers hit New York, so did a blast of rainy, London weather.
It didn’t stop the mass of editors who came for the Showrooms’ press viewing at the Soho Grand yesterday, where Mary Katrantzou, Holly Fulton, Michael van der Ham, J.W. Anderson, and more of the city’s up-and-comers (and their collections) were holding court. No surprise to find a crush at the penthouse suite. Interest in British fashion feels greater than at any time in recent memory. “I feel like London’s been an emerging talent itself for such a long time and I think it finally felt like it emerged,” said the day’s hostess, Sarah Mower, the British Fashion Council’s ambassador for emerging talent. “There’s been a real coming together, a critical mass of talented people who have been working away quietly and methodically for such a long time. Suddenly we had really strong collections from Meadham Kirchhoff [above], Mary Katrantzou, Christopher Kane, Erdem; they look mature now—they’re proper small businesses who people are really taking notice of…there’s a buzz with substance behind it in town.”
Katrantzou agreed. “I got a feeling that with some people, something clicked, and it was very real,” she said of the response to her Fall show (left). “They came to the showroom and you felt that it was very positive—I was amazed to feel that response.” Her koi-pond print pieces and fleurette-dotted dresses remain showpieces, but Katrantzou also expanded into knitwear this season, an especial boon for retailers. “It brings a completely different story for people to buy into,” she explained.
Men’s designer Tim Soar was also celebrating a season of firsts: his first full womenswear collection, with menswear-inspired pieces, like a raw-edged tuxedo jacket and a blocked, backless dress that had begun life as men’s suiting separates. In its first season, the line has already been picked up by some of London’s best stores. Looking at his covetable leathers, like a long, black leather skirt and a fur-collared varsity jacket, it wasn’t hard to imagine why.
Holly Fulton’s Coco Chanel-in-Scotland-inspired collection was also on display, with bright red lip prints not only appearing on silk maxi dresses and printed pants, but also on oversized enamel earrings. Fulton is working on a new project, she whispered, one that transcends the fashion sphere—her graphic prints being especially adaptable to such things—but wouldn’t say more for the moment.
Jonathan Anderson of J.W. Anderson—another menswear designer who recently added women’s to his repertoire—was exciting special attention as well. (Mower singled him out as especially promising among the new guard.) His paisley-print tops (left) and angora knits—long dresses for women, cropped sweaters for men—were exciting in a kind of loony, late-sixties way. His collection looks modern, but as Mower pointed out, Anderson, like many of his compatriots, is using older techniques and long-established craftsmen; his outerwear, for example, is made by the same factory that makes jackets for the English gunmakers Purdey and Sons. Meadham Kirchhoff, showing in a room across the penthouse, sources English-made Linton tweed (the same tweed, incidentally, Coco Chanel herself used to use). “One thing I’m really excited to see is that all this great production is being done in the U.K. It’s really precious to all of this generation that things are made by craftspeople near home,” Mower said. “Without being tub-thumping about sustainability and the rest of it—that’s [just] what’s close to them.”
London is famously supportive of its young designers, and today, the British Fashion Council announced the 18 who will be the beneficiaries of the NewGen sponsorship at London fashion week in February.
Holly Fulton, Louise Gray, Mary Katrantzou, David Koma, and Michael van der Ham will all be presenting shows on the catwalk, supported by NewGen. Christopher Raeburn, Craig Lawrence, J. JS Lee, and milliner Nasir Mazhar will hold presentations; jewelers Dominic Jones and Jordan Askill will stage installations; and menswear designer J.W. Anderson will screen a film. There’ll also be a larger exhibition featuring the work of all of the designers above, plus Dorchester Prize finalists Chau Har Lee and Thomas Tait, Fannie Schiavoni, Felicity Brown, Yang Du, and Finnish designer Heikki Salonen.
Check out the links above to see runway shows, reviews, blogs, and all of Style.com’s past coverage on the winning designers.
Pictured above, left to right: Spring 2011 looks from Holly Fulton, Mary Katrantzou, and Michael Van Der Ham.