22 posts tagged "Michel Gaubert"
Industry legend Michel Gaubert is one of the go-to DJs for the fashion set, spinning tunes for Chanel, Balenciaga, Proenza Schouler, Gucci, and more. (He counted down his Top 10 runway soundtracks of the decade 2001-2011 here.) He was in the booth for Chanel’s Paris/Bombay Métiers d’Art show, and in between spinning tunes—including George Harrison’s “My Sweet Lord,” John Lennon’s “Instant Karma!,” and David Lynch’s “Good Day Today” (Chanel shared his full playlist here)—he managed to record the show from his DJ’s-eye-view. Gaubert shared the video, below, and a few choice pics with Hintmag.
Never mind their guest lists of the avant-garde’s great, good, and badly behaved, Charles and Marie-Laure de Noailles’ villa on a hill above the town of Hyères in the South of France must have seemed to the locals like a bemusing glimpse of the future when it was built in the mid-1920′s. Its blocky modernism is still incredibly striking in the pink-shaded and shuttered context of a typical Riviera town, and you couldn’t wish for a better setting if you were an arts festival looking to stage a competition that celebrates creativity untrammeled by the forces of Mammon. Which, for the fashion end of the festival, translates into exhibitions of work by recent graduates from around Europe, for whom Hyères offers one final attempt to Truly Express Themselves. It might be their one last grasp at the high-concept ring before they’re subjected to the external disciplines of internships, studio assistant positions, and judgmental barb-tongues telling them to get real.
Except the judges at Hyères this year weren’t like that at all. The composition of the jury embraced a universe of sensibilities, from the rigorous thought processes of chair Raf Simons and editrix Jo-Ann Furniss, through the not-much-older-than-the-finalists Christopher Kane, Lazaro Hernandez, and Jack McCollough, to the well-seasoned industry perspectives of Carla Sozzani, Floriane de Saint-Pierre, Cathy Horyn, and Michel Gaubert, with my rosé connoisseurship bringing up the rear. Juries are a challenging proposition. In both numbers and gender equity, we were nowhere near 12 angry men, but the differences of opinion—and the passion with which they were aired—were a surprise, especially given that there was genuine agreement on one thing: This was not a bumper fashion year in Hyères. In the spirit of the place, it was bemusing, and even blocky hyères and thyères. But bumper? No.
The jury saw the finalists’ clothes three ways: as a presentation, on the catwalk, and in a showroom. It was fascinating how our appreciation of the designers ebbed and flowed according to the mode in which we were encountering them. Here, the fabrics ruled, there, the showmanship. The eventual winner was Lea Peckre from France. Her collection, Cemeteries Are Fields of Flowers (above), was polished in its execution, intriguing in its fabrication. I’m a sucker for wood sequins—and she also used GodSpeed You! Black Emperor as her show music, which can’t hurt. The attention to structure and the concierge color palette of Peckre’s clothes also had hints of Jean Paul Gaultier, with whom she interned. That too can’t hurt.
The jury’s honorable mention—and the competition’s most polarizing designer—was Emilie Meldem from Switzerland. Some members of the jury were utterly seduced by her directness, her drollness, and what she referred to as “the minimal eccentricity” of the Swiss aesthetic. What I loved most were the showpieces woven from twigs. (“Half my village helped on the dress,” she said with what might have been a chuckle, but could have been a choke.) Each stick was, according to Meldem, treated like a piece of jewelry. The result was so pagan, so ritualistic, that I felt like I was looking at The Wicker Man à la mode. Which can’t be bad.
One final note: Hyères is open to independent applicants from all over the world, which seems to be a well-kept secret. It doesn’t matter where you live, where you received your fashion education. So one word of advice to fashion students everywhere: Apply! Hyères at this time of year? A small patch of heaven.
The International Fashion and Photography Festival that takes place every year in Hyères (sorry, couldn’t resist) in the South of France has an impressive pedigree, a point rammed home by the rapid-fire video appetizer for the 26th edition, which runs April 29 till May 2. (You can watch it, in its slightly hysterical glory, below.) The ten fashion finalists (from France, Germany, Holland, Belgium, and Switzerland) will be judged by a jury headed up by Raf Simons, who also has an exhibition running in the Photography Festival. He’ll have to ride herd on jurors Lazaro Hernandez and Jack McCollough, Christopher Kane, Carla Sozzani, Cathy Horyn, Michel Gaubert, and me, though our verdict will undoubtedly be rendered unanimous under the ameliorating influence of Provence’s finest rosés. And there can be few more appropriate locations in which to judge a new wave of design talent than the Villa Noailles, one of the French Riviera’s great if-walls-could-talk houses. In its pre-war heyday, it played host to Picasso, Dalí, Cocteau, and a whole host of avant-gardists. With Raf, rosé, and Michel Gaubert’s iPod, we should be able to raise a few ghosts.
Form March 1 through 10, Chanel and Colette are joining forces on a pop-up store located in an industrial garage on Colette’s block, Rue Saint-Honoré. In addition to Chrome Hearts customized bags and graffiti handbags—a nod to Karl Lagerfeld’s longtime affection for the brand—the space will sport a nail bar, cupcake stand, and music by Michel Gaubert. Sounds like the perfect Paris fashion week detour (even if we don’t imagine a lot of those cupcakes will get eaten). [WWD]
Keds Sportswear is just a hop, skip, and a jump away. The 100-year-old footwear brand will launch women’s and men’s lines aimed at a twentysomething audience for Spring ’12. [WWD]
Vena Cava’s Sophie Buhai and Lisa Mayock (left) are collab queens. After previously pairing up with Gap, Via Spiga, Bloomingdale’s, and the Proper Attire condom line, their next mass venture is with Uniqlo. [Fashion Etc.]
And the Twitter rumor du jour: Julia Restoin-Roitfeld to get her own fragrance? Here’s looking forward to eau de RR. [Elle]
We may not look our age, but Style.com is celebrating a big anniversary this fashion week: ten years of being the ultimate online home of fashion. To celebrate, we’ve taken a look back at our decade-long history, from the top ten collections to the ten fashion headlines that shook the world, the ten hottest models, the ten It-est accessories, and many more. To see the complete top tens, click here.
We’ve also tapped a few expert friends to give their two cents, too. Tim Blanks weighs in on the top ten menswear collections of the decade. Tavi Gevinson provides her own decade in review—never mind that she was only 4 when it started. The runway mixmasters Frederic Sanchez and Michel Gaubert provide their decade in fashion tracks. And with an eye to the future, Opening Ceremony predicts the ten things we’ll be talking about over the next ten years.
Happy birthday to us—but the present is coming from us to you. Keep your eye on this space for more about our very special tenth anniversary collaboration, coming soon…