60 posts tagged "Milan Fashion Week"
In terms of castings, Milan designers tend to opt for tried-and-true models over fresh faces. That’s great for those of us who can’t get enough of It girls like Bette Franke, Daria Strokous, Kati Nescher, Nadja Bender, and Ava Smith—all of whom walked just about every noteworthy runway this week. (No sign of veteran Daria Werbowy, though. We’re still hoping to see her make a return in Paris.) But that makes things difficult for up-and-comers trying to gain a foothold in the industry. Still, each season Prada and casting director Ashley Brokaw continue to launch new stars with its coveted exclusive slots. Last time around, Prada debuted Vanessa Axente and Elza Luijendijk, who have each gone to succeed in major ways, and this season the lineup boasted over 15 first-season catwalkers, of which there were several standouts who continued to deliver throughout the week. Russian rookie Katya Riabynikina (pictured) went toe-to-toe with the big-name girls at Gucci on day one, then walked Prada, Bottega Veneta, Emilio Pucci, Marni, and Salvatore Ferragamo. Antonina Vasylchenko followed up her Calvin Klein exclusive with an impressive Italian tour that included appearances at Prada, Dolce & Gabbana, Missoni, and Trussardi. Jil Sander was another memorable moment for new girls. There we saw both Riabynikina and Vasylchenko, as well as other notable newcomers including the opener, Natasha Remarchuk (also at Prada), closer Josephine van Delden (spotted in London at Acne, Jonathan Saunders, and Christopher Kane), and Esther Heesch, who later appeared at Marni and Salvatore Ferragamo, too. Yumi Lambert was another new recruit who made an impact this week. The half-Japanese, half-Belgian stunner walked Prada, Emilio Pucci, Fendi, and Missoni, among others.
It’s rare to see new designers joining the Milan fashion week ranks. Rarer still for that designer to be a Chinese woman. Uma Wang, an alumnus of China Textile University and Central Saint Martins in London and the founder of a nearly seven-year-old eponymous line with a flagship store in Shanghai, made her Italian debut on Sunday night. Guests who managed to squeeze her show in between Aquilano.Rimondi and Versus witnessed a collection from the Yohji Yamamoto and Ann Demeulemeester school of fashion. Colors were mostly blacks and neutrals, with a hit or two of red, and her cuts, for the most part, were asymmetric and unconstructed. There was a focus on innovative knitwear and dramatic coats—often in one piece. It’s too soon to say if Wang will be back next season (she showed in Paris once last year), but wherever she ends up, she’s a designer to watch.
You probably saw Anna Dello Russo wearing the mini, embroidered dresses in candy colors during the Couture shows. Then again during New York fashion week. After seeing ADR in them a few times in a row, you may have wondered who designed them. I was curious, too. Turns out it’s Fausto Puglisi, a Milanese designer who lived in New York for many years and has since returned to his hometown. Since I’m in Milan for the collections, I had to set up an appointment to see the collection in its entirety. Inspired by Halston and Gianni Versace, the collection has a unique vibe to it. The “Grecian cheerleader dress” (pictured), as Puglisi likes to call it, was one of my favorite pieces, and the miniskirts were so beautifully done that it’s easy to understand why Anna would want the same one in multiple colors. The only downside is the collection is not available at high-end department stores in the U.S. just yet. Here’s my official request for that to change.
Today’s D&G runway show in Milan will be the last from the Dolce & Gabbana line, WWD reports. The company announced it will instead incorporate D&G into its signature line. The designers say they hope it will bring “even more strength and energy to our collection.”