64 posts tagged "Milan Fashion Week"
Giorgio Armani is dead set on reviving Milan fashion week. To contribute to its growth, the designer has started inviting emerging talents to present at his Teatro Armani show space. The first two up-and-comers awarded with a runway were Andrea Pompilio (menswear) and Stella Jean (womenswear), who showed their Spring ’14 ranges with Mr. Armani’s help. Today, the next rising star on his radar was announced: Swiss menswear designer Julian Zigerli. Having studied at the University of Art Berlin, Zigerli’s luxurious, sporty looks (think: a jacket merged with a backpack, relaxed silhouettes, and playful-yet-masculine prints) earned him the Swiss Design Prize in 2011 and also got him a spot in London’s Vauxhall Ones to Watch lineup in 2012. Zigerli will send his Fall ’14 collection down Armani’s catwalk on January 11.
It doesn’t look like Miu Miu will be hitting the runway in Italia anytime soon, but the Italian Chamber of Fashion did score a coup today. After showing in Paris for twenty years, Costume National will be sending its Spring ’14 collection down the catwalk in Milan this fall. “This is not about Italians showing in Italy and the French showing in France,” designer Ennio Capasa—who is, in fact, Italian, and based in Milan—told WWD. “Fashion is a large, international community, and I had this feeling that Italy…is going through a difficult moment right now…I wanted to help, to show some solidarity…I couldn’t say no to my country.” No word yet if the move is permanent or a one-season deal, but we’ll be keeping our eyes peeled to see if any other Italian designers decide to head home and help breathe new life into Milan fashion week.
Continuing his effort to provide some much needed support to Italy’s up-and-coming designers, Giorgio Armani has announced today that he will invite emerging talent Stella Jean to show her Spring ’14 collection at Teatro Armani during Milan fashion week. “The new generation of Italian designers needs our support,” offered Mr. Armani. “It is for this reason that I continue to make my theater on Via Bergognone available to them.”
Armani began inviting young labels to present in his space during the Spring ’14 menswear season, asking Andrea Pompilio to be his first rising star. Jean—a native Roman with a Haitian background—often uses her Creole heritage as a point of reference for vibrant ready-to-wear. A former model, she earned second place in Alta Roma’s Who Is On Next competition in 2011.
While Italy has found itself at the center of the fashion discussion of late—with insiders debating how to revitalize Milan’s fashion weeks, as well as Suzy Menkes’ latest article about the Pope’s quieting influence on the Italian aesthetic—the industry has never questioned the country’s deep-seated history of craftsmanship. And that’s exactly what Charlotte Dellal aims to celebrate through her latest video. With its irreverent touches and sexed-up quirks, the designer’s accessories range, Charlotte Olympia, is an unquestionably British brand. But in order to showcase the artistry that goes into each of her spiderweb-stamped platform kicks, Dellal enlisted Tabitha Denholm to direct Made in Italy, a short film that takes viewers inside her Italian factory to view the birth of a hand-finished pair of her signature red satin Paloma pumps. “Italy is the ultimate destination for craftsmanship and quality,” offered Dellal. “Made in Italy showcases that attention to detail and dedication, both of which are essential ingredients to making luxury designs.” The film—complete with wheat fields, a little of Donizetti’s Linda di Chamounix in the background, and a couple of cones of gelato—debuts here, exclusively on Style.com.
In terms of castings, Milan designers tend to opt for tried-and-true models over fresh faces. That’s great for those of us who can’t get enough of It girls like Bette Franke, Daria Strokous, Kati Nescher, Nadja Bender, and Ava Smith—all of whom walked just about every noteworthy runway this week. (No sign of veteran Daria Werbowy, though. We’re still hoping to see her make a return in Paris.) But that makes things difficult for up-and-comers trying to gain a foothold in the industry. Still, each season Prada and casting director Ashley Brokaw continue to launch new stars with its coveted exclusive slots. Last time around, Prada debuted Vanessa Axente and Elza Luijendijk, who have each gone to succeed in major ways, and this season the lineup boasted over 15 first-season catwalkers, of which there were several standouts who continued to deliver throughout the week. Russian rookie Katya Riabynikina (pictured) went toe-to-toe with the big-name girls at Gucci on day one, then walked Prada, Bottega Veneta, Emilio Pucci, Marni, and Salvatore Ferragamo. Antonina Vasylchenko followed up her Calvin Klein exclusive with an impressive Italian tour that included appearances at Prada, Dolce & Gabbana, Missoni, and Trussardi. Jil Sander was another memorable moment for new girls. There we saw both Riabynikina and Vasylchenko, as well as other notable newcomers including the opener, Natasha Remarchuk (also at Prada), closer Josephine van Delden (spotted in London at Acne, Jonathan Saunders, and Christopher Kane), and Esther Heesch, who later appeared at Marni and Salvatore Ferragamo, too. Yumi Lambert was another new recruit who made an impact this week. The half-Japanese, half-Belgian stunner walked Prada, Emilio Pucci, Fendi, and Missoni, among others.