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August 23 2014

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66 posts tagged "Milan Fashion Week"

Charlotte Olympia: Born in Britain, Made in Italy

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While Italy has found itself at the center of the fashion discussion of late—with insiders debating how to revitalize Milan’s fashion weeks, as well as Suzy Menkes’ latest article about the Pope’s quieting influence on the Italian aesthetic—the industry has never questioned the country’s deep-seated history of craftsmanship. And that’s exactly what Charlotte Dellal aims to celebrate through her latest video. With its irreverent touches and sexed-up quirks, the designer’s accessories range, Charlotte Olympia, is an unquestionably British brand. But in order to showcase the artistry that goes into each of her spiderweb-stamped platform kicks, Dellal enlisted Tabitha Denholm to direct Made in Italy, a short film that takes viewers inside her Italian factory to view the birth of a hand-finished pair of her signature red satin Paloma pumps. “Italy is the ultimate destination for craftsmanship and quality,” offered Dellal. “Made in Italy showcases that attention to detail and dedication, both of which are essential ingredients to making luxury designs.” The film—complete with wheat fields, a little of Donizetti’s Linda di Chamounix in the background, and a couple of cones of gelato—debuts here, exclusively on Style.com.

Milan’s Standout Models

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In terms of castings, Milan designers tend to opt for tried-and-true models over fresh faces. That’s great for those of us who can’t get enough of It girls like Bette Franke, Daria Strokous, Kati Nescher, Nadja Bender, and Ava Smith—all of whom walked just about every noteworthy runway this week. (No sign of veteran Daria Werbowy, though. We’re still hoping to see her make a return in Paris.) But that makes things difficult for up-and-comers trying to gain a foothold in the industry. Still, each season Prada and casting director Ashley Brokaw continue to launch new stars with its coveted exclusive slots. Last time around, Prada debuted Vanessa Axente and Elza Luijendijk, who have each gone to succeed in major ways, and this season the lineup boasted over 15 first-season catwalkers, of which there were several standouts who continued to deliver throughout the week. Russian rookie Katya Riabynikina (pictured) went toe-to-toe with the big-name girls at Gucci on day one, then walked Prada, Bottega Veneta, Emilio Pucci, Marni, and Salvatore Ferragamo. Antonina Vasylchenko followed up her Calvin Klein exclusive with an impressive Italian tour that included appearances at Prada, Dolce & Gabbana, Missoni, and Trussardi. Jil Sander was another memorable moment for new girls. There we saw both Riabynikina and Vasylchenko, as well as other notable newcomers including the opener, Natasha Remarchuk (also at Prada), closer Josephine van Delden (spotted in London at Acne, Jonathan Saunders, and Christopher Kane), and Esther Heesch, who later appeared at Marni and Salvatore Ferragamo, too. Yumi Lambert was another new recruit who made an impact this week. The half-Japanese, half-Belgian stunner walked Prada, Emilio Pucci, Fendi, and Missoni, among others.

Photo: GoRunway.com

Wang Watch

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It’s rare to see new designers joining the Milan fashion week ranks. Rarer still for that designer to be a Chinese woman. Uma Wang, an alumnus of China Textile University and Central Saint Martins in London and the founder of a nearly seven-year-old eponymous line with a flagship store in Shanghai, made her Italian debut on Sunday night. Guests who managed to squeeze her show in between Aquilano.Rimondi and Versus witnessed a collection from the Yohji Yamamoto and Ann Demeulemeester school of fashion. Colors were mostly blacks and neutrals, with a hit or two of red, and her cuts, for the most part, were asymmetric and unconstructed. There was a focus on innovative knitwear and dramatic coats—often in one piece. It’s too soon to say if Wang will be back next season (she showed in Paris once last year), but wherever she ends up, she’s a designer to watch.

Photos: Giovanni Giannoni

Battle Of The Fashion Weeks Continues

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“We can’t move the dates earlier in September as they would interfere with Labor Day,” Steven Kolb said yesterday. “If Milan goes before New York, how would that work?”

That’s the question fashion insiders are asking right now as they sort out the international fashion week calendar for 2012. Since New York decided to start the runway shows after Labor Day next year, the week of September 13, Italians are threatening to move the Milan shows earlier “to satisfy production needs,” WWD reports.

Right now, Italian designers are contemplating three different options: show in July, show before New York fashion week in September, or let Milan and London overlap. They have yet to reach a decision.

Photo: Carly Otness / BFAnyc.com

On Our Radar: Fausto Puglisi

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You probably saw Anna Dello Russo wearing the mini, embroidered dresses in candy colors during the Couture shows. Then again during New York fashion week. After seeing ADR in them a few times in a row, you may have wondered who designed them. I was curious, too. Turns out it’s Fausto Puglisi, a Milanese designer who lived in New York for many years and has since returned to his hometown. Since I’m in Milan for the collections, I had to set up an appointment to see the collection in its entirety. Inspired by Halston and Gianni Versace, the collection has a unique vibe to it. The “Grecian cheerleader dress” (pictured), as Puglisi likes to call it, was one of my favorite pieces, and the miniskirts were so beautifully done that it’s easy to understand why Anna would want the same one in multiple colors. The only downside is the collection is not available at high-end department stores in the U.S. just yet. Here’s my official request for that to change.

Photo: Courtesy of Fausto Puglisi