August 31 2014

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8 posts tagged "Milan"

Au Jour Le Jour Goes Back to School


BLOG_dyptich_1Yesterday afternoon, emerging Milan-based brand Au Jour Le Jour transformed Florence’s old customs office on Via Valfonda into a club-age iteration of a primary school classroom. Showgoers sat at red, yellow, blue, or green desks instead of perching on benches (which made it incredibly easy to take notes, for the record) and the back staircase was lined with glowing neon lights. It was the perfect backdrop for designers Mirko Fontana and Diego Marquez’s debut menswear collection, dubbed #backtoschool. The duo, who last season won the support of Armani and presented their womenswear lineup at Milan’s Armani Teatro, turned out a Spring ’15 range imbued with playful, kooky kitsch.
“I found my old notebook from primary school, and we decided to give this mood to the collection with embroidery and prints,” explained Marquez backstage. “But we also tried to show strong tailoring. It was really important for us to make something fun but sophisticated.” Prints comprising rhinoceroses, red apples, yellow school buses, pencils, glue bottles, and lions were scattered across cotton shorts, short-sleeve button-downs, skirts, and dresses. (The designers showed a smattering of womenswear, too.) These motifs, along with pink unicorns and orange lions, were repeated elsewhere in sequins. Also on offer were preppy pastel knits paired with the shortest of short shorts for him and high-waisted boy shorts for her, as well as leather handbags that took the form of the abovementioned animals. Striped soccer socks and bright-hued sandals completed each irreverent look. The clothes were a good bit of fun—and well-made fun, at that, incorporating double cotton, paillette, quilted nylon, and a selection of couture fabrics for suits. That being said, those cheeky short shorts, or the women’s cropped sweaters, would surely be a recipe for detention.

Photos: Courtesy of Au Jour Le Jour

Fausto Puglisi’s Cheerleading Squad Expands


When’s editors walked into Milanese designer Fausto Puglisi’s showroom this morning, they arrived to a room full of buyers, editors, and stylists (very different compared to our visit last season, when it was just us). Let’s call it the Super Bowl effect. Puglisi, if you recall, is the man behind M.I.A. and Nicki Minaj’s Super Bowl halftime wardrobes, and based on today’s turnout, it looks like he scored some big points with the fashion set in the process. Luckily for him, his turn as designer to the pop divas was also the starting point for his new collection, which he describes as “Helmut Newton, New Pagan emperor” with “neoclassical influences.”

“The development of this collection was born with B. Akerlund while working on Madonna, Nicki Minaj, and M.I.A’s Super Bowl show,” the designer tells That would explain the fetish leather pieces, embellished with crystal starbursts, gold thread, and metals—it was a look quite similar to the Super Bowl outfits. “I pushed to play not only with black plonge leather; there is a gladiator Hellenic American College print and peroxide blond leopard print. It’s unusual to see these prints on leather.” He did more of his now signature Grecian-Roman cheerleader dresses (and did them well), but there’s also structured menswear-inspired jackets, “rock star” biker pants, cashmere twinsets, and eveningwear in the mix. Overall, it was another strong outing for the designer. As for what’s on the horizon, he tells us, “the goal, for sure, is a first shop in the U.S.”

Photos: Courtesy of Fausto Puglisi

On Our Radar: Vionnet


Vionnet chairman Matteo Marzotto and the label’s new designers, Barbara and Lucia Croce, gathered in Milan tonight to celebrate the opening of the label’s new boutique, its first directly owned flagship in the world. Everything in the shop, situated on the ground floor of Palazzo Premoli, pays homage to founder Madeleine Vionnet, from the interior design to the clothes on the racks. In addition to the house’s signature eveningwear, the store offers a demi-couture service done by tailors working in the adjoining atelier. And what’s a celebration without a little jewelry? To toast its opening, the Milan shop will exclusively carry this limited-edition chain necklace (left) in oxidized brass, featuring the house’s historic logo.

Photo: Courtesy of Vionnet

Get Kate Middleton’s Issa Dress, Simon Doonan’s Words Of Advice, CFDA Rejects Milan’s Request, And More…


Remember the blue Issa dress that Kate Middleton wore at her engagement announcement? Now, the dress is being reissued for Online Fashion Week, but there will only be five available on the Selfridges Web site. [Vogue U.K.]

Gloria Estefan has joined Wilhelmina’s celebrity roster alongside Fergie and Estelle. Wilhelmina’s chief says, “She’s truly an icon and we see tremendous opportunities for her in the fashion and beauty world.” [Page Six]

Simon Doonan has a new book, due out next month, titled Gay Men Don’t Get Fat. In the meantime, he has some other advice: “Throw away your work clothes and wear party clothes for the rest of your life.” [Hint]

The CFDA has rejected Milan’s request to cancel New York’s final day of shows. The day they are requesting to cut includes runway shows from Ralph Lauren and Calvin Klein Collection. [WWD]

Fresh Crop


Noticed in Milan: The cream of the crop, both on and off the runway, is doing bold, belly-baring looks. If you don’t have a well-toned stomach like Natasha Poly or Karlie Kloss, the abundance of crop tops, like the sexpot lace numbers at Pucci or the red-hot tops at Dolce & Gabbana, might serve as motivation to put in a few extra gym hours before spring hits. Tommy Ton caught a few catwalkers on the street who are already wearing the trend.

Photos: Yannis Vlamos / (Dolce & Gabbana); Tommy Ton (street style); Monica Feudi / (Emilio Pucci)