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April 20 2014

styledotcom Platinum blond? So predictable! stylem.ag/1l3QRnh

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18 posts tagged "Milk Studios"

Required Reading: Parsons The New School for Design Releases Its First Book

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Mazdack Rassi, Simon CollinsNostalgic Parsons designers rubbed elbows among alumni old and new at Milk Studios last night in celebration of the design school’s first book. One would think that all those featured in The School of Fashion: 30 Parsons Designers were star pupils, but Anna Sui wasn’t one of them. Inside the crowded room, the designer confessed to her less-than-scholarly ways. “Being 18 and living in New York City with no parental guidance, I wasn’t a good student,” confessed Sui. But it was a fun time, she admitted.

Working her way around the room, Behnaz Sarafpour correctly named all of the designers whose sketches hung along the walls—including her own, drawn on a cocktail napkin. Sarafpour later reunited with fellow alum Reed Krakoff who, like her, once interned with Narciso Rodriguez. The two stood in front of a wall of black-and-white portraits opposite Proust questionnaires that asked designers Alexander Wang, Derek Lam, and Jason Wu the following: “What fictional character do you most identify with?” and “Who are your heroes in real life?” For Chris Benz, who was in attendance, the answers included Tom Sawyer and Martha Stewart, respectively.

“When I realized there hadn’t been a book written, I figured it’d be crazy not to,” said Simon Collins, the school’s dean of fashion, who hosted the event along with Milk’s Mazdack Rassi. The new tome includes thirty designer-dedicated chapters with a host of vibrant illustrations, photographs, and introspective quotes taken from exclusive interviews conducted over the past year. Part of the proceeds from sales will benefit scholarships for Parsons students.

While upping the school’s fashion cred ranks high on Collins’ to-do list, the dean was quick to boast that crafting the book was good for all involved. “I mean, the designers loved it,” offered Collins. “They can show their mums.”

The School of Fashion: 30 Parsons Designers is published by Assouline. Available at select bookstores or online at assouline.com.

Photo: Lola Haze/BFAnyc.com 

Around the World With Hood By Air

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Shayne Oliver and Hood by Air's new backpackBy now, it’s been established that New York-based Hood by Air has become a cult favorite. And, considering his smorgasbord of upcoming projects, founder and designer Shayne Oliver has proven that the streetwear line is no fleeting niche sensation. Last weekend, Hood by Air launched Morph—a conceptual pop-up in L.A.’s Scion AV Installation space that marked the brand’s West Coast retail debut. The shop’s Saturday opening—which was attended by diehard HBA fan, and the star of Oliver’s Fall ’13 show, A$AP Rocky—doubled as the launch of an eight-piece made-to-order luggage capsule. Running between $800 to $2,500, the range includes a black leather backpack with clever ball-and-chain detailing and a skeletal fetish-inspired latex hiking bag (left). “It’s subversive luxury luggage,” Oliver told Style.com. “The line has to do with me playing more with the actual realm of luxury. With these bags, I’m confronting that sense head-on and feeling things out for myself.”

 

The travel accessories are just one facet of Hood by Air’s expansion beyond its signature “ghetto goth” sweatshirts and tees. On June 16, an HBA knitwear capsule will land at Selfridges department store in London. The unveiling of a denim line at New York’s Milk Studios will follow in September. And during the Spring ’14 Paris shows, Oliver will introduce suits and jackets as part of the label’s move into formal menswear. No doubt, big things are happening for the 25-year-old designer, who launched HBA in 2006. But the talent is humbled by his growing fan base’s veritable obsession with the label. “I take it as a nod to what I’m doing,” he said. “I’m just building an aesthetic, and a brand, and a place for myself in fashion. I don’t quite know how to take it, because I’m shy. I just see it as gratitude.”

Hood by Air’s Morph will be open through June 16 at the
 Scion AV Installation
 space, 7667 Melrose Avenue, 
Los Angeles, CA 90046.

Photo: Aleks Kocev /BFAnyc.com

Pamela Loves Parties

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Pamela Love’s approach to Fall ’13 was, as she succinctly put it, “No show, just a party.” Last night, the jewelry designer was at Milk Studios, her usual fashion-week venue—but she wasn’t posted in one of the white-walled studios. This time around, she was in the underground concert space, hosting a closing night of sorts for MADE fashion week. (This side of the Atlantic, at least: The emerging-designer-friendly platform will have its inaugural season in Paris later this month, at the Hôtel Salomon de Rothschild.)

Not that Love has been a slouch this show season: She did the accessories for Mara Hoffman, Creatures of the Wind, and Monique Lhuillier. Her Valentine’s Day basement party provided a warm-up of sorts for the back-in-action blues band VietNam, which has a new album out and is about to start touring. Fun fact: The band’s label, Mexican Summer, is run by Andres Santo Domingo and Keith Abrahamsson—gents who are both married to high-powered fashion pros.

“I definitely felt a little bit of emptiness in my heart this season, because I love doing presentations,” said Love, whose jewelry showcases tend to be the opposite of generic. “But I wanted to keep it more private this time around. And presentations are a lot of work.”

Photo: Carly Otness/BFAnyc.com

Parsons: The First 18

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“I think what the students have in common is that they each have an individual voice,” said Shelley Fox, the director of the new MFA Fashion Design and Society course at Parsons School of Design. The course is the first of its kind in New York. And on Saturday, at Made Fashion Week at Milk Studios, its first 18 graduates (hailing from 13 countries) sent the fruits of their labor down the catwalk. Donna Karan, who was a strong supporter of the course and instrumental in its inception, turned up to cheer on the grads. “Although I was a student at Parsons, I found myself hiring a lot of people from Louise Wilson at Central Saint Martins in London and I said, ‘Wait, how come we don’t have a graduate program in New York?’ ” said Karan. Wilson herself crossed the pond to attend the show. She shared the front row with the likes of Fern Mallis, Julie Gilhart, and Bill Cunningham—not a bad turnout for a student production.

The show opened with looks by Lucia Cuba. With a background in social psychology, the Peruvian designer created a sartorial expression of activism, commenting on women’s issues and politics in Lima. The clothes combined 1950s silhouettes with prints of women’s crotches or pictures of a young Alberto Fujimori (a dictator who has been jailed for human rights abuses). Paula Cheng’s collection of webbed, multitextural silver and gray knits was another standout (pictured).

Students explored concepts of deconstruction and reconstruction (like show-closer Talia Shuvalov’s sweatshirts embellished with vintage tees that she took apart and rewove, or Jun Juyeon Hong’s impeccable wool suiting that featured unexpected lines, layers, and cutouts) and minimalism (like Beckett Fogg’s embossed leather and chiffon collection, or Noriko Kikuchi’s ethereal white looks based on emptiness) and showed no fear when it came to color. Liverpool native Carly Ellis was particularly courageous in her sporty, techno looks. Backstage, the purple-haired designer explained that she was inspired by vivid tourist pictures she snapped in New York as well as fragmented Skype images and the geometric painting rituals of South Africa’s Ndebele tribe. Sinéad Lawlor’s tailored button-photo print collection, which featured smart suiting combined with knitting techniques and lace, was another colorful offering. Each of the collections was conceptually rich and, at times, complicated, but many of the designs seemed not only wearable but sellable, too.

Photo: Courtesy of Parsons School of Design

The Richie Report

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Last month, we joined Nicole Richie for a private uptown dinner in New York and previewed her upcoming collection for Macy’s. However, we have signed papers saying we wouldn’t tell you much about it just yet. The next best thing? These exclusive images from the ad campaign shoot at Milk Studios in L.A., lensed by Camilla Akrans. “I worked extremely hard with Macy’s to create a collection that stayed true to my own aesthetic, so representing my designs in the advertising campaign was a welcome opportunity,” Richie tells Style.com. “I am thrilled to partner with such an iconic retailer for this collaboration, which was an exciting, new way to challenge my creativity.” Here, an exclusive first glimpse.

Photos: Camilla Akrans