17 posts tagged "Milk Studios"
By now, it’s been established that New York-based Hood by Air has become a cult favorite. And, considering his smorgasbord of upcoming projects, founder and designer Shayne Oliver has proven that the streetwear line is no fleeting niche sensation. Last weekend, Hood by Air launched Morph—a conceptual pop-up in L.A.’s Scion AV Installation space that marked the brand’s West Coast retail debut. The shop’s Saturday opening—which was attended by diehard HBA fan, and the star of Oliver’s Fall ’13 show, A$AP Rocky—doubled as the launch of an eight-piece made-to-order luggage capsule. Running between $800 to $2,500, the range includes a black leather backpack with clever ball-and-chain detailing and a skeletal fetish-inspired latex hiking bag (left). “It’s subversive luxury luggage,” Oliver told Style.com. “The line has to do with me playing more with the actual realm of luxury. With these bags, I’m confronting that sense head-on and feeling things out for myself.”
The travel accessories are just one facet of Hood by Air’s expansion beyond its signature “ghetto goth” sweatshirts and tees. On June 16, an HBA knitwear capsule will land at Selfridges department store in London. The unveiling of a denim line at New York’s Milk Studios will follow in September. And during the Spring ’14 Paris shows, Oliver will introduce suits and jackets as part of the label’s move into formal menswear. No doubt, big things are happening for the 25-year-old designer, who launched HBA in 2006. But the talent is humbled by his growing fan base’s veritable obsession with the label. “I take it as a nod to what I’m doing,” he said. “I’m just building an aesthetic, and a brand, and a place for myself in fashion. I don’t quite know how to take it, because I’m shy. I just see it as gratitude.”
Hood by Air’s Morph will be open through June 16 at the Scion AV Installation space, 7667 Melrose Avenue, Los Angeles, CA 90046.
“I think what the students have in common is that they each have an individual voice,” said Shelley Fox, the director of the new MFA Fashion Design and Society course at Parsons School of Design. The course is the first of its kind in New York. And on Saturday, at Made Fashion Week at Milk Studios, its first 18 graduates (hailing from 13 countries) sent the fruits of their labor down the catwalk. Donna Karan, who was a strong supporter of the course and instrumental in its inception, turned up to cheer on the grads. “Although I was a student at Parsons, I found myself hiring a lot of people from Louise Wilson at Central Saint Martins in London and I said, ‘Wait, how come we don’t have a graduate program in New York?’ ” said Karan. Wilson herself crossed the pond to attend the show. She shared the front row with the likes of Fern Mallis, Julie Gilhart, and Bill Cunningham—not a bad turnout for a student production.
The show opened with looks by Lucia Cuba. With a background in social psychology, the Peruvian designer created a sartorial expression of activism, commenting on women’s issues and politics in Lima. The clothes combined 1950s silhouettes with prints of women’s crotches or pictures of a young Alberto Fujimori (a dictator who has been jailed for human rights abuses). Paula Cheng’s collection of webbed, multitextural silver and gray knits was another standout (pictured).
Students explored concepts of deconstruction and reconstruction (like show-closer Talia Shuvalov’s sweatshirts embellished with vintage tees that she took apart and rewove, or Jun Juyeon Hong’s impeccable wool suiting that featured unexpected lines, layers, and cutouts) and minimalism (like Beckett Fogg’s embossed leather and chiffon collection, or Noriko Kikuchi’s ethereal white looks based on emptiness) and showed no fear when it came to color. Liverpool native Carly Ellis was particularly courageous in her sporty, techno looks. Backstage, the purple-haired designer explained that she was inspired by vivid tourist pictures she snapped in New York as well as fragmented Skype images and the geometric painting rituals of South Africa’s Ndebele tribe. Sinéad Lawlor’s tailored button-photo print collection, which featured smart suiting combined with knitting techniques and lace, was another colorful offering. Each of the collections was conceptually rich and, at times, complicated, but many of the designs seemed not only wearable but sellable, too.
Last month, we joined Nicole Richie for a private uptown dinner in New York and previewed her upcoming collection for Macy’s. However, we have signed papers saying we wouldn’t tell you much about it just yet. The next best thing? These exclusive images from the ad campaign shoot at Milk Studios in L.A., lensed by Camilla Akrans. “I worked extremely hard with Macy’s to create a collection that stayed true to my own aesthetic, so representing my designs in the advertising campaign was a welcome opportunity,” Richie tells Style.com. “I am thrilled to partner with such an iconic retailer for this collaboration, which was an exciting, new way to challenge my creativity.” Here, an exclusive first glimpse.
As sisters and design partners, Phoebe and Annette Stephens of Anndra Neen enjoy an especially symbiotic relationship based on their shared history growing up in Mexico City among an artistic family, a background which informed their decision to launch the brand in 2009. Since the beginning, the duo has focused on shapes “inspired by the imperfect geometry of nature” and a handcrafted aesthetic. The results are dramatic yet approachable pieces forged from mixed metals, with solid cuff bracelets encrusted with abstract renderings of sea creatures and cascading breastplates etched with wave formations.
During their latest presentation at Milk Studios, Phoebe explained this season’s evolution. “We’re still using a lot of texture, but we also have cleaner silhouettes with the geometric breastplates and the quilted clutch.” The pieces, displayed on sculpted formations evoking driftwood, achieved a careful balance of natural authenticity and a bold statement, much like how Annette describes the women of their rapidly expanding fan base. “She’s fashion-forward and has a strong personality, but is also open-minded. She truly dares to wear.”