18 posts tagged "Milk Studios"
As sisters and design partners, Phoebe and Annette Stephens of Anndra Neen enjoy an especially symbiotic relationship based on their shared history growing up in Mexico City among an artistic family, a background which informed their decision to launch the brand in 2009. Since the beginning, the duo has focused on shapes “inspired by the imperfect geometry of nature” and a handcrafted aesthetic. The results are dramatic yet approachable pieces forged from mixed metals, with solid cuff bracelets encrusted with abstract renderings of sea creatures and cascading breastplates etched with wave formations.
During their latest presentation at Milk Studios, Phoebe explained this season’s evolution. “We’re still using a lot of texture, but we also have cleaner silhouettes with the geometric breastplates and the quilted clutch.” The pieces, displayed on sculpted formations evoking driftwood, achieved a careful balance of natural authenticity and a bold statement, much like how Annette describes the women of their rapidly expanding fan base. “She’s fashion-forward and has a strong personality, but is also open-minded. She truly dares to wear.”
I would like to offer a big thanks to Milk Studios for making our lives easier during NYFW. I was able to see four presentations last night, all of which were on the same floor, one room next to the other (and, on such a chilly Saturday night, it was nice not to be running around the city). First stop: shoe designer Alejandro Ingelmo’s first “real” presentation, where his men’s fur-lined high-tops were the talk of night. The female editors in the room were calling for a women’s version of the shoe. Don’t worry, ladies, it’s coming soon.
After stops at Dean Quinn and Anndra Neen, the ultimate surprise of the night came from the London-based design duo Susanne Ostwald and Ingvar Helgason of Ostwald Helgason. Their latest collection (pictured above) was filled with pieces I want to wear now. The animal-print sweatshirts, ruffled miniskirts, cocktail dresses with interesting volume in the back, parkas, and printed coats would all be perfect pieces for the runway shows. This is definitely a brand to watch—it’s one of my favorite collections of the season so far and I am ready to add my name into the wait list for the clothes already.
It’s funny how there’s always just a little more room in one’s closet for another handbag. If you beg to differ, then you might want to clear out some space for one from Reece Hudson, the line by Parsons alum Reece Solomon. Now in her fifth season, she made her official New York fashion week debut this year, presenting at Milk Studios over the weekend.
Riffing on her inspiration of where the city meets the beach, chic structured envelope clutches, two-tone totes, and evening satchels were arranged amid large pieces of driftwood. She enlisted filmmaker, musician, and longtime pal Harry McNally to create a video installation of the collection flying through the air against blue sky. Watching it, the effect was nearly as relaxing as a day at the beach. Come spring, you’ll see Solomon’s keeping her classic styles but branching out with more color, to include bold shades of green, yellow, and blue. She’s also building upon her standard crocodile and leather repertoire by introducing new fabrics such as croc-stamped raffia, calf hair with a chevron burnout, and striped jute. While everything is made in New York City, bead-embroidered leather is sourced from India.
When it comes to naming her bags, she keeps it simple and opts for a no-nonsense numerical order. If you’re coveting the round, ruby red evening bag embellished with paillettes, fringe, and feathers, ask for the 3.5; reference No. 14 if you’re trying to describe the black python calendar clutch. Or you could just walk into Kirna Zabête, point, and purchase. Solomon seems to have the numbers working in her favor. As part of the second wave of CFDA Incubator designers, she’s one of the lucky ten that was chosen from a pool of over 170 designers. How’s she feeling about the Incubator program these days? “It’s so exciting, it hasn’t even hit me yet!” she says.
“It’s my first real presentation, outside of my showroom, so I wanted to keep it really simple and precise,” shoe designer and fourth-generation cobbler Alejandro Ingelmo said at his Milk Studios presentation. “For me, less is more.” Not necessarily what you’d expect to hear from someone whose client roster includes Lady Gaga, Nicki Minaj, and Britney Spears. (For those maximalists, at least, he obliged with the occasional Swarovski Elements-crystal embellishment.)
Nor was Ingelmo’s simple really all that simple. He showed towering leather platform sandals and sharply angled ankle boots in black, nude, silver, and gold—not exactly hop-on-the-subway fare. But he’s conscious of comfort; he’s a runner himself and often spotted in New Balances when he’s not wearing his own leather high-tops—so he’s done thick-strap flat sandals, too.
You’ll have to wait for spring to snatch up the new version of his best-selling Thriller, a gravity-defying platform that’s a blend of sexy straps and futuristic metallic leather. If you need to get your Ingelmo fix now, you can check out the Helmut Lang and Chris Benz Spring shows, both of which feature AI collabs. Or you can just head down to his recently opened boutique on Wooster in Soho.