4 posts tagged "Moncler Gamme Rouge"
Moncler Gamme Rouge will go down as the most wonderfully wacky show of Spring 2011. Creative director Giambattista Valli usually stages an installation; this was performance art, complete with strobe lights, modern dancers in scuba masks, and not only a smoke machine, but also a wind machine and a parachute, too. Adding to the madcap mood were the models’ towering turbans and Day-Glo lipstick. As for the clothes themselves? Given that this is Moncler, the outerwear brand, that we’re talking about, they were coat-dresses, mostly, and recognizably Valli in their slightly sixties shapes, with cocooning egglike volumes. But that’s only part of the story. Not unlike at his signature collection, the designer seemed interested in color-blocking and patchworks. In contrast with his own show, the colors in question were neons and the fabrics multicolor lamés that looked like candy foil wrappers. At least they did under the black light.
Last season, sheers ruled the runways—Dior to Dolce, Fendi to Ferré. (You can check them all out here.) And this season? They’re still here. See-through styles showed up at YSL, Stella McCartney, Givenchy, and Valentino, among others, but the point was really hammered home at Giambattista Valli’s dinner for Moncler Gamme Rouge last night in Paris. Valli girls including Heidi Mount and Jess Stam pictured), and Coco Brandolini went for gauzy frocks, baring plenty of skin. (So did Lou Doillon, in a chic, sheer jumpsuit that occasionally revealed more than she might have preferred.) The hand-wringers will continue to wonder, especially in this season of the power suit, how these will play at the office. But when your office is the runway…
“It’s like an early George Lucas movie set,” Giambattista Valli said at his Moncler Gamme Rouge presentation today. True, fans of THX 1138 probably felt right at home in the Mylar-wallpapered alcove where Valli was greeting editors. But the clothes themselves—not unlike those in his signature collection, shown yesterday in the same Place Vendàme former bank—had more of a sixties feeling á la Pierre Cardin and André Courrèges’ space age chic. The surprising thing about that is how cool and spare the box quilted wool nylon capes and metallic thread nylon chubbies looked compared to last season’s more romantic silk rose-festooned puffers. The other intriguing development: the plethora of ribbed-knit layering pieces, from snoods and mittens to full-body unitards. “I love to enrich the wardrobe; it’s not just quilted jackets,” Valli said. Twenty-first-century Barbarellas, take note.
Two live horses, a snow machine, fox-lined satin sleeping bags protected by men in uniform…Giambattista Valli‘s Moncler Gamme Rouge presentation held in the basement of the Paris Opera (!) had all this and the world’s most deluxe puffer jackets to boot, including one in down-lined chinchilla on top, and on the bottom, down-lined chinchilla-print silk. Inspired by the film Russian Ark, in which a 19th century French aristo travels through the Hermitage bumping into 200 years worth of real and imaginary historical figures, Valli whipped up all manner of down jackets in army green, Fabergé egg-inspired gold lame, and Siberian wolf-print silk. The stars of the show, however, were the Tsarina and her court: puffer jackets-cum-ball gowns in icy silver and sorbet pastels. Yum.