2 posts tagged "Moncler Grenoble"
Strong showing from Joseph Altuzarra, I thought. A lot of young New York designers are all over the place, but Joseph seems to be settling into a nice rhythm, with an identifiable signature but also a sense of variation and development each season. The mood of luxe coziness reminded me a bit of the Hermès Fall 2013 show. A few designers have been taking their cues from that collection lately. As they should. It keeps getting better in the memory.
The staging was…well, I’ll let Maya Singer explain. Afterward, the show’s producer, Etienne Russo, who routinely orchestrates some of fashion’s most memorable spectacles, told me that the existential dread that came over you watching the interminable German acapella performance was all part of the plan. He intended it as an antidote to our instant gratification culture. And they say fashion is shallow…
This wasn’t my favorite Alex Wang show ever, but I got the sense that the crowd—particularly the European contingent—liked it a lot. And you can see why. In a city that gets knocked for playing it safe fashion-wise, Wang stands out for the scale of his ambition, evident in the staging, the clothes, and even in the ballsy decision to show in Brooklyn. Now let’s see some more of that ballsiness at Balenciaga, please.
The Italian label held a chic postshow dinner at Sean MacPherson’s newish hotel, The Marlton. How chic? Well, at the company’s request, there were no party photographers present. If this catches on, that should cause some existential angst among the fashion set. Gian Luca Passi de Preposulo, the urbane, intelligent Moncler executive, introduced us with maximum casualness to his date: “This is my girl Jessica.” That would be Chastain.
UNDER THE RADAR
Patrick Li, that unabashed logo vandalizer and discerning creative director of T Magazine, thinks more people should be paying attention to A Détacher. He’s right.
In the spectator sport that is fashion, the clothes make or break the label, but you give them a real boost with a show that leaves the crowd dazzled. Moncler knows it. The Franco-Italian label’s presentation of its new Grenoble line at Chelsea Piers’ waterfront golf club was a stunner. On the driving range, a three-story scaffold held the puffer-swaddled models in a still, faintly military formation. Bach, Bellini, and Puccini swelled from below, and the editors gawped from the club’s covered terraces, where on normal days, the linksmen would be thwacking balls. The effect, as snow began to lightly fall, was nothing short of operatic (though the Moncler-branded thermoses of spiced wine and hot punch may have contributed to the heady mood). And the clothes? Oh, they were very nice, at least as far as I could see from a distance. Grenoble—named for the Alpine town where the label was founded—aims to reclaim the brand’s skiing heritage and promises that its collections can stand up to the slopes. But style still counts, too. In-for-a-penny, in-for-a-pounders can dive into a full-body puffer suit (bet the model in that one on this cold evening was thanking his lucky stars). There were a variety of jackets in technical nylon, Shetland wool, and insulated down, and a few looks even saw the return of that mid-century bit of politesse, the ski skirt for ladies.
In its presentation notes, Moncler reminded us—by way of connecting its luxe garb with its new athletic readiness—that winter sports began as an amusement for the wealthy few. But why bother with justifications? All of Moncler’s collections are fabulously expensive—avant-, en, or après-ski—and pitched at customers unused to justifying themselves. The product is great, and those who buy it would likely say they get what they pay for. No argument here. I’m just glad that the label seems so dedicated to its extravagant shows. That way, we get what they pay for, too.