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April 19 2014

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31 posts tagged "Moschino"

Jeremy Scott: The New Man At Moschino

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Jeremy ScottMoschino, which celebrated its thirtieth anniversary in Milan last month, has hired Jeremy Scott to be its new creative director. The 39-year-old L.A.-based designer replaces Rossella Jardini, who has headed up the label since 1994, when the house founder, Franco Moschino, died. Scott will make his runway debut at Moschino’s Fall 2014 show in February next year. In an e-mail, Aeffe chairman Massimo Ferretti said, “I am enthusiastic about this significant change, as our goal is to inject new energy into our Group in keeping with the changes already in place with other Aeffe brands such as Philosophy, Emanuel Ungaro, Pollini, and Cédric Charlier.” Scott will continue to design his own label, which he launched in 1997. With a rebellious streak at least a mile wide—at one of his early shows, he tossed coins printed with his face at the audience—Scott is a savvy match for Moschino, a label known for its irony and irreverence. “It’s the closing of one chapter and the beginning of a new one,” he said via phone this morning. Here, the Missouri farm boy who Karl Lagerfeld once took under wing discusses his plans for Moschino as he ushers it into its fourth decade.

There are so many synergies between you and the Moschino brand. How did you feel when you were approached?
I was really excited. For me, one of the key elements of Moschino is humor. It’s one of the few houses that has humor, and it’s the same thing for me. Another one of the bonding elements is their written messages that express thoughts and twist ideas. We share an obsession with poking fun at fashion. Whimsy, also.

Were you a Moschino fan before this offer came through?
I was. The ironic thing is, during my last year of college, when I was at Pratt, I interned for the Moschino press office, for Michelle Stein here in New York. Yeah, it’s kind of a fairy-tale story. I was the intern, and now I’m running the company.

You once said you turned down job offers from Pucci, Versace, Paco Rabanne, and Chloé. Why did you say yes to this one?
It’s two things. At the beginning of my career, I felt it was really important to establish my own name. I feel like my own brand, my own DNA, is created and solid now, and I’ve built a global fan base. I don’t have that fear I used to have of the possibility of me getting lost in someone else’s house. On the one hand, I’m different now; the other has to do with the brand. It’s hand in glove. When I heard it, it was like, “Oh my God, yeah, of course.” This is so natural for me; I can take this so many different ways.

When did Moschino come to you?
I was contacted in July. It was very effortless, actually. I feel like they were pretty fixated on the idea and certain about me being the right person. I’ll continue to do my own line, as well as my Adidas collaboration. I’ve been working very vigorously to be ahead of my normal procrastinated self in anticipation of having a larger workload.

Have you been spending time in Italy?
Not yet. Other than meeting them in July, I’ve gone to Milan maybe two or three times. I’m not very familiar with the city, so that in itself will be an adventure for me. I literally don’t even know where to get toothpaste.
I’m going to be there the entire month of November—to understand how they work and to meet my design team, which is already in place. But I’m a very modern boy. I work a lot through the Internet. That’s one of the reasons I moved from Paris to Los Angeles in the first place, actually. Nothing was being made in Paris except the things in my own studio. I could be anywhere. Now that’s even more the case with iPhones and gadgets. But at the same time, I want to see the archives, to learn the house, and to be physically there, as well. We’ll see. Whatever it’s going to take for it to feel right, that’s all I’m concerned about. I want to do a good job.

How does it feel to be headed back to Europe?
I started my career in Paris, so it feels like home. I’m excited about learning more about Milan, Milan life, and Italian style. I’ve only been to Rome once, when Karl [Lagerfeld] brought me. The proximity of everything—I mean, Italy is the size of California, I can spend the weekends sightseeing. I’ve never been to Venice…I’ve always wanted to go, and now I have the perfect opportunity.

On the other hand, California, where you currently work, seems to be having a moment. Does it feel like there’s something going on there?
I am the pioneer, I got here first. I even remember Tom [Ford] saying to me, “I can’t believe you’re moving there, I wish I could do it.” I love it here. I feel inspired, it’s a wonderful way of creating for me—it just feels really good. I don’t really think about how [it's having a moment], but I realize it through other people’s eyes. All the stories about [the new boutique] Just One Eye, all the attention they’re getting. Other people are focusing here. The only thing I can think of that’s different now than when I first moved here is that there’s a younger generation that’s come up, that has become part of the look of the city. There’s been so much more enthusiasm about fashion and style from this new generation of kids. Continue Reading “Jeremy Scott: The New Man At Moschino” »

Milan’s Major Modeling Moments

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Clockwise from top left: Natalia Siodmiak, Binx Walton, Irina Liss, and Nastya Sten

More so than in any other city, Milan designers and casting directors are known to favor established models over newcomers, but this week we witnessed a slew of fresh faces break through to the front of the pack. Many of the girls who started strong in New York and London (specifically, Malaika Firth, Anna Ewers, Kate Goodling, and Ophelie Guillermand) kept the pace up in Italy. Then Miuccia Prada and casting director Ashley Brokaw introduced us to a whole new set of noteworthy rookies, including Nastya Sten (bottom left), Irina Liss (bottom right), and Paulina King. Flaxen-haired Sten debuted as an exclusive at Proenza Schouler (another Brokaw-cast show), scored a semi-exclusive spot at Prada, and went on to walk Jil Sander, Bottega Veneta, Roberto Cavalli, and open Aquilano.Rimondi. Meanwhile, we’ve fallen head over heels for Liss’ tight-lipped look. The otherworldly Russian followed up her Prada premiere with turns at Jil Sander, Dolce & Gabbana, and Missoni. Finally, King made a splash at Prada, Marni (she bookended the show), and Jil Sander.

Another thing Milan was previously known for was overlooking minorities, so it was thrilling to see many of our favorite up-and-coming black models, including Firth, Binx Walton (top right), Cindy Bruna, Maria Borges (we never could’ve guessed that she would open Giorgio Armani), and Kai Newman making major strides this week. Newman, who hails from Kingston, Jamaica, positively wowed us at Gucci and Jil Sander. We can’t wait to see her go on to crush it in Paris.

Natalia Siodmiak (top left) is someone who has been making the rounds for several seasons but is suddenly at the top of everyone’s watch lists. After ending London on a high note with turns at Christopher Kane and Giles, the gap-toothed beauty cranked up the sex appeal at Gucci, Versace, and Emilio Pucci, and opened and closed Max Mara. It’s gratifying to see someone who’s been paying her dues finally have a moment. Speaking of moments, who could forget Moschino’s memorable roster of old-school supes, including Pat Cleveland, Alek Wek, Erin O’Connor, Jodie Kidd, and Diana Dondoe? Another runway high point was Liya Kebede and Malgosia Bela walking Emilio Pucci. And, naturally, there’s plenty in store for model-followers in Paris. Just today, iconic Snejana Onopka made a cameo appearance at Anthony Vaccarello, whipping the Fashion Spot forums into a frenzy.

Photos: IndigitalImages

Runway to Red Carpet: Suited Stars and a Musical Hem

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Rachel McAdamsAlthough this proved to be a quieter week on the red carpet than most, those who did hit the town came out strong. As Beyoncé’s world tour pushes on, we’ve continued to envy her custom-made wardrobe. On Saturday, she added Gucci to the designer lineup, with a lust-worthy top-and-pants ensemble inspired by the Spring ’12 collection. Rachel McAdams looked stunning (as usual) at Thursday night’s London premiere of her film About Time. The copper-coiffed star chose a long-sleeve, floor-grazing Roksanda Ilincic gown from the Resort ’14 collection. It was nipped at the waist with an iridescent belt.

On-screen mother-daughter duo Amanda Seyfried and Sharon Stone continued their Lovelace-premiere circuit with Monday night’s L.A. screening. Seyfried shimmered in a metallic brown-and-gold Gucci mini while Stone opted for a sharp all-black Salvatore Ferragamo ensemble, pairing tailored pants with a tuxedo jacket and leather loafers. That same evening, across the pond, Chloë Moretz traded in her superhero cape for a striped Viktor & Rolf suit from the Resort ’14 lineup at the photo call for her film Kick-Ass 2. The 16-year-old finished off the look with a pair of black Mary Janes, which gave the grown-up outfit a fresh, youthful touch.

Laura Carmichael—or, as Downton Abbey fans might know her, Lady Edith—also embraced a playful look in L.A. On Tuesday, she wore a black Moschino Cheap and Chic shift with a piano-key hemline to PBS History’s photo call. We’re not sure the Dowager Countess of Grantham would have approved, but we sure do.

Here, more of this week’s red-carpet highlights.

Land of the Setting Sun

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Sunset looks from Fendi, Prada, and Calvin Klein

Milanese runways are feeling the heat, as troves of Italy’s presenters this menswear season have rendered sunset-inspired motifs on their wares, from ombré fadeaways to photo-realistic Atlantic twilights.

Calvin Klein‘s Italo Zucchelli showed a brilliant jumper aflame in solar fuchsia—a depiction of the view from his Fire Island summer home (above, right). Zucchelli also looked to James Turrell’s light sculptures—a timely nod, considering the artist’s much-hyped summer installation at New York’s Guggenheim Museum. Moschino, too, lensed a vivid, filmic gloaming on a range of bathing suits.

Dame Vivienne Westwood sent her boys to a sort of pan-global beach town, lending a sun-kissed casualness to her agitprop beat. One periwinkle-turned-rose-petal top caught our eye in particular. But it was Fendi‘s blur on a simple silken T-shirt that won the ombré challenge, hazily recalling a scorching desert (above, left).

And then there’s Prada (above, center). Miuccia gamely explored the underbelly of paradises then and now—spurring thoughts of wartime Vietnam (helicopters on the soundtrack) and seedy Honolulu racketeers. A series of bombers—heat-pressed with dusk-time littoral snapshots—perfectly encapsulated Prada’s ominous tropical sundown.

Photos: Yannis Vlamos/InDigital/GoRunway

Moschino Courts Shanghai

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Du Juan in Moschino's opening Resort '14 look; Massimo Ferretti, Zhang Ziyi, and designer Rossella Jardini

It was Moschino’s first attempt at wooing the Shanghai fashion set down at South Bund’s artificial beach last night. A huge black tent was the backdrop for an evening of classic Moschino looks, including the brand’s Resort ’14 show, the men’s Spring ’14 collection, and a trip down memory lane to revisit the Moschino archives.

The show opened with Chinese supermodel Du Juan sporting a white coatdress with a front vertical flounce from the neck to the hem. Her ensemble was topped with a Chinese hat from Northern Song Dynasty, reserved for the traditional judges (above, left). Moschino was saying it loud and clear, “China, here I come.”

Actress Zhang Ziyi (above, center) sat front row as the show opened with some graphic, ladylike looks that had a trompe l’oeil effect. The color red was omnipresent throughout the collection, as were bouquets of vivid floral-print dresses coupled with gold platform sandals and heavy bangles. The men’s range was equally upbeat, boasting preppy wares, again with lots of red. An electrifying lightning-bolt print gave the tailoring a punch. The finale was packed with some of Moschino’s most memorable runway moments, like beaded matadors, sensual gypsies, heavy embellished eighties party dresses, gold metallic fringed coats, and chained bolero jackets. It was great to see all the pieces again, and to remember the legacy left behind by the late founder, Franco Moschino.

Models Emma Pei and Wang Zhu Xiao Yin; and Du Juan & Zhao Lei at the Moschino party in Shanghai

After the show, guests poured out on to the beach. Pink and red hearts filled the pool, and partygoers relaxed on the Balinese-style daybeds, which were swathed in long white curtains. The DJ pumped dance music while the champagne flowed and the fashion pack welcomed yet another house to their beloved city of the Orient, Shanghai.

Photos: Courtesy of Moschino