16 posts tagged "Mugler"
Mugler has appointed 28-year-old Georgian-born, London-based designer David Koma as the house’s new artistic director. The Central Saint Martins-trained talent is best known for his sculptural, hyper-feminine silhouettes, which, it’s worth noting, often recall Thierry Mugler’s own aesthetic. Koma, who recently created a series of peplumed bodysuits for Beyoncé’s Mrs. Carter World Tour, plans to continue designing his eponymous line, which he launched in 2009, along with Mugler’s. The designer’s new gig officially starts on January 2, and he’ll debut his first Mugler collection for the Resort ’15 season. Koma succeeds Mugler’s previous creative director, Nicola Formichetti, who left the house in April before signing on as the artistic director of Diesel.
Olivier Saillard—author, poet, star fashion curator—tends to prefer a contemplative moment over a grand event. He is also fond of saying that, had he ever studied fashion design, he would have done “just one dress” and then retired his tape measure.
Last night in Paris, he offered both. Eternity Dress, a fifty-one-minute performance starring Tilda Swinton, sponsored by Chloé, and staged at the École des Beaux-Arts this week as part of the city’s fall festival, has been sold out for months. In it, Saillard and Swinton explore the art of dressmaking, starting with lines and measurements (waist: 28 inches, and so forth) working up through flat patterns and the beginnings of a dress, which Swinton took a moment to sew on herself. As the dress took form, Swinton recited a litany of collar styles in French and released a world of emotion in the turn of a sleeve, finally draping herself in rich-hued chiffon and velvet unfurled from bolts lined up on the floor.
Ultimately, The Dress—a black sheath with long sleeves and an open back—was a stand-in for a century of fashion history, from Paul Poiret to Comme des Garçons. One of the show’s high points, as well as its biggest laugh, showed Swinton striking a series of emblematic poses for houses from Poiret to Yohji Yamamoto, by way of Chanel, Dior, Mugler, YSL, and Jean Paul Gaultier. Among a roomful of designers including Gaultier, Christian Lacroix, Bouchra Jarrar, Martine Sitbon, and Clare Waight Keller, Haider Ackermann was first on his feet for the ovation. “It’s absolutely a piece of my life,” said Waight Keller. “They’ve taken everyday materials like tape and chalk and elevated them to an art form about designing a dress from scratch. It’s about craft, measuring, and a considered approach. It’s poetry.”
“One of the things about Tilda is that she can do anything,” noted Saillard after the performance. “She’s not a ‘fashion girl,’ so she can be a sculpture, an actress, a woman, a man, she can be 18 or 75 years old. It was like we were in a bubble, and the experience gave us lots of new ideas. Fashion has to be surprising.”
At the small cocktail party held afterward at Lapérouse, Swinton added, “Olivier is a playmate. We work and play together and come up with crackers ideas for some other time—it’s wonderful to be able to play off of someone like that.” Asked whether she realizes that she would be any designer’s dream to work with, Swinton let loose a small bombshell: “Maybe it’s because I know nothing about fashion!”
Thierry (or, as he’s now called, Manfred) Mugler has found the perfect stage on which to reinvent himself—a literal one. This winter, the eighties legend, who returned to his namesake label as creative adviser after Nicola Formichetti’s departure in April, will open Mugler Follies, a full-throttle revue (i.e., variety show) that, as his Web site muglerfollies.com details, will consist of acrobats, actors, models, singers, eroticism, technology, lots of lights, original songs, and beyond. Set to open in December at Paris’ Théâtre Comédia, the show, which guests can enjoy over dinner, or champagne, will undoubtedly be packed with dramatics and razzle-dazzle. But what has us most excited are the costumes: Judging by the site’s illustrations, the wardrobe is a sexed-up space-age Mugler fantasy at its best.
“We’re celebrating here!” said Nicola Formichetti, by phone from Diesel’s headquarters in Italy this morning. The reason: The announcement was made today that Formichetti, as was much-rumored when he left his creative director post at Mugler this week, is joining Diesel as its first artistic director. “Mugler was all about creating luxury, and fantasy, and bringing the dream and the entertainment into an already existing brand,” Formichetti said. “At Diesel, I want to talk straight into people’s hearts, people in the street.” Here, Formichetti lays out his plans to put Diesel denim back on the map.
Thank you so much. Actually, I’m presenting my first project today. It’s our initiative of the Reboot Campaign. It’s the advertisements, starting from June. So it’s the visual side, and we’re going to start a big digital community on Tumblr first. And I want to crowd-source using social media and start getting the armies together, because I can’t do this alone. We need lots of people’s help, and it’ll be a great way to meet new talent and designers and artists. Because Diesel’s such a global brand; the team should be global, too.
Tell me more about the Reboot project.
You can actually go to the Diesel Reboot page. You can just go there, and I’ve already reblogged some of the stuff I liked online. We go in, and you guys can join the community and tell us who you are and what you like. And we’re going to have little missions, so for the first mission, we’ll ask, “What’s your favorite thing?” And another mission would be, “How would you like to see this change?” Or “How would you customize this denim?” And then we’ll give an award per mission. So you’ll get something back. It’s kind of like a dialogue. It’s a new way of using social media, and I’m super excited for that.
What, exactly, does “artistic director” mean? What will your role at Diesel entail?
I’ll be directing the collection. So I’ll look at the entire company—from the clothing to the products, the shows, the marketing, the store experiences, the advertising. All the details. It’s so crazy.
What most interests you about the company?
Well, I love that if you have a great product, and if you have great communication, you can actually get to people. Because that really didn’t happen with me at Mugler. I wasn’t seeing a cool guy wearing my clothes on the street. Yes, Gaga wore it. Beyoncé wore it. But what I wanted was to see someone—like, a cool girl—wearing my jackets or pants on the street randomly. Continue Reading “Diesel, Now Unleaded: Nicola Formichetti On His Expansion Plans” »
Mugler, which returned to the runway two years ago under the creative direction of mega-stylist Nicola Formichetti (above left, with designer Sébastien Peigné), will part ways with him, WWD reported today. The label called the creative director “a historical part of the Mugler legacy” and praised him as “the force that catapulted us forward”; no word from the man himself, who, according to the paper, is on vacation.