59 posts tagged "Narciso Rodriguez"
Marie-Christine Statz is living the dream of many a young designer. When she started her own label, Gauchère, two years ago, it took only one collection for Le Bon Marché to come knocking. One year later, the 31-year-old German-born, Paris-based designer is presenting a second capsule collection for the Parisian specialty store. And although she’s clearly struck a chord in Paris, Statz attributes much of Gauchère’s appeal to time she spent at two American brands: Narciso Rodriguez, where she was an intern, and Diane von Furstenberg.
“At Narciso Rodriguez, I learned about a very graphic aesthetic and minimalism, which I love. The company is small, so I got to be involved in lots of aspects of the creative process,” the designer explained. “From Von Furstenberg, I learned about prints and not to be afraid of mixing colors. Now I have them in every collection.” From both, she notes, she gleaned much about a certain attitude toward dressing. “Clothes have to be easy, uncomplicated. You need to be able to just put it on and go anywhere without fussing.”
For Fall, the designer is channeling a menswear vibe through wide shoulders, V-shapes, and an exploration of checks in fragmented layers of gray brightened with accents in blue or sunflower. “It’s about how things might be connected or disconnected, with a lot of hand-stitched tailoring and detail,” Statz said of her raw-cut silk shirt, chunky knitwear, embossed leather dresses, and coats with laser cutouts. One signature piece really stood out: a detached lapel that can be layered, scarf-like, over the shoulders of a minimalist coat. That’s an easy accent we can really appreciate.
We’ve just passed the midway point of fashion month with the Milan shows well under way, and there have been plenty of memorable modeling moments thus far, particularly for newcomers. In general, the top-tier, A-list catwalkers have been more selective with their schedules, leaving room for fresh faces to ascend the ranks. Perhaps the easiest way to break down our favorite rookies is by hair color. By and large, it’s been the season of the platinum blond, with familiar faces Julia Nobis, Ashleigh Good, Juliana Schurig, Sasha Luss, and Devon Windsor making a strong case for bleached tresses (reminiscent of Khaleesi from Game of Thrones). Several new models have been riding Fall’s peroxide wave, too. First is ethereal Polish beauty Ola Rudnicka, who debuted at Prada’s Spring show and landed a spot in the label’s latest campaign. She’s turned up on just about every major runway in each city so far. Rudnicka kicked things off on a high note in New York, walking Jason Wu, Michael Kors, Proenza Schouler, and Marc Jacobs. She went on to do Burberry and Christopher Kane in London, and continued to take Milan by storm, bookending No. 21 on Tuesday in addition to walking Max Mara and Moschino yesterday. Another noteworthy newcomer rocking a flaxen mane is Harleth Kuusik (who currently stars in Proenza Schouler’s Spring ads). In New York, she did turns at Rag & Bone, Victoria Beckham, and Proenza Schouler, then followed those up with J.W. Anderson and Erdem in London. We plan to see a lot more of both Rudnicka and Kuusik next week.
Next up is the fiery-tressed group of redheads led by sophomores such as Lera Tribel and Nika Cole (who can forget her teased-out, lamp-shade ’do from Schiaparelli’s Couture show?). They are joined by Quebec native Sophie Touchet, who made an early impact at Thakoon, 3.1 Phillip Lim, MBMJ (a.k.a. Marc by Marc Jacobs), and Burberry Prorsum, then moved on to open Alberta Ferretti and walk in Fendi yesterday. Finally, we’ve got a mixed bag of brunettes, ranging from Dutch stunner Imaan Hammam (she won the genetic lottery with a Moroccan mother and a father from Egypt, and her exotic looks have helped earn her key spots in top-tier casts including Prada, Proenza Schouler, Narciso Rodriguez, and Fendi) to fierce-looking Ronja Furrer (that strong jawline gave her an edge at Altuzarra, Alexander Wang, Christopher Kane, and more). And how about this season’s most buzzed-about newcomer? Waleska Gorczevski has a hell of a name and a hell of a presence. During NYFW, the Brazilian model was the first girl out at Marc Jacobs. She also opened Yigal Azrouël and bookended Victoria Beckham, and has continued to rack up an impressive show list including Calvin Klein Collection, Hugo Boss, Proenza Schouler, Christopher Kane, and Fendi. No doubt Paris will take to her serene, slightly quirky appeal.
Aside from Fall’s freshman class of catwalkers, we’ve witnessed plenty of noteworthy cameos by old-school veterans, too. For example, Alexander Wang’s finale featured the likes of Angela Lindvall, Bridget Hall, Candice Swanepoel, Caroline Trentini, Anne V., Hilary Rhoda, and Jacquetta Wheeler. Meanwhile, Karen Elson has been going at full throttle this year, and she continued to dazzle at Tom Ford, Donna Karan, and Diane von Furstenberg. On the other hand, we’ve got Karolina Kurkova, who surprised us by opening Cushnie et Ochs and turning up at Christopher Kane (where she was easily the most experienced model in the lineup). Other highlights included: Kirsten Owen opening and closing Mary Katrantzou; Mini Anden at Proenza Schouler; Liberty Ross and Stella Tennant at Tom Ford; and the triple threat of Carolyn Murphy, Frankie Rayder, and Liisa Winkler at Michael Kors. Last but not least was the brilliant cast at Burberry Prorsum, which featured Edie Campbell in addition to her two younger sisters, Olympia and Jean. Mark our words, those Campbell girls are stars in the making. And speaking of stars, you can’t deny that Kendall Jenner was a total natural on the runways at Marc Jacobs and Giles.
Who knew soda tabs could be so luxurious? Although, we suppose when Narciso Rodriguez is involved, almost anything can enter into the realm of chic. Today marks the release of an ongoing collaboration between Rodriguez and Bottletop—an organization launched in 2002 by Cameron Saul and his father, Roger, who founded British brand Mulberry. A charitable foundation that works to support health education in Africa, Brazil, and parts of the U.K., Bottletop raises its funds by selling surprisingly appealing handbags crafted from up-cycled aluminum ring pulls and other environmentally friendly luxury materials. Why bottle tops, you ask? While on a trip to Brazil, the foundation’s codirector, Oliver Wayman, stumbled upon a satchel comprising bottle tabs and crochet—and he thought it was the perfect design. Furthermore, the handbags are produced in the organization’s atelier in Salvador, Brazil, which gives back to the community by teaching and hiring local residents.
But back to the collaboration at hand. Dubbed Narciso Rodriguez (heart) Bottletop, the new project, which is appropriately also backed by PepsiCo, offers two styles: the Jessica clutch ($982), named for Jessica Alba, who introduced Rodriguez to the initiative, and the Candice handbag ($2,062) —dedicated to Candice Swanepoel, who fronts the collab’s campaign. The ads debut exclusively here. Both styles incorporate Bottletop’s signature metal tabs and crocheted black or blush napa leather. “I love Brazil—I had a home there for many years, and I was excited to do this because I know it will help the community,” Rodriguez told Style.com when asked why he decided to get on board. “This will make a lasting difference. Residents are learning not only skills, but also about business, and they in turn are giving back to their communities and teaching others. I love when people come up with these great ideas for finding ways to have an impact.”
The bags will be sold at retailers including Jeffrey in New York and Harrods in London, and 100 percent of the proceeds will go toward fostering health education via the Bottletop Foundation. For more information, visit bottletop.org.
Breakfast with my colleague Maya to go over the lineup for the next issue of Style.com/Print, which we put together while simultaneously covering the shows on the site and publish within a month of the close of Paris fashion week, a live-broadcast approach to making a magazine. Then it was off to the Rodarte show. Last season’s collection got slated, though I sort of liked its trashy energy. This one had more of the Mulleavy sisters’ customary handcrafted offbeat charm and should be a hit with their fans. After that it was on to Diesel Black Gold on the West Side, and then a meeting on the East Side with a European luxury house, who filled me in on its plans for a huge event later this spring.
Tons of energy and lots of food for thought at Marc by Marc Jacobs, which has been rechristened by its initials and is now in the hands of the London-based duo of Luella Bartley and Katie Hillier. Something about the scale of the plywood set and the refracted references here made me think I could have been at a show in Paris. There was an intriguing magpie quality to the clothes, as if you were moving through the racks of Dover Street Market from the Japanese designer section to the sophisticated European section to the streetwear section. My favorite grouping was the BMX-inspired looks. The show was a bona fide smash with the audience. It’ll be interesting to see how the aesthetic, a break from the line’s more insouciant past, plays at retail. Delphine Arnault, of the parent group LVMH, was looking on from the front row.
Talking of Dover Street Market, I ran into the new Comme des Garçons-operated, multiretailer space on Lexington Avenue to say hello to Andre Walker. Walker is the first to describe himself as an “elusive” designer, and after a few stops and starts, he’s back with a small line, thanks to the encouragement of DSM’s Adrian Joffe and Rei Kawakubo. You’ll find it on the seventh floor between Junya Watanabe and Prada, an indication of the esteem Kawakubo has for Walker.
Every season, there are a couple of models who break through and start popping up in all the big shows so that you can trace the day’s development through their changing hairstyles and runway attitudes. This season, those models are Binx Walton and Anna Ewers, who in the space of a few hours went from Bolshevik ninja at MBMJ to sleek gallerina at the serenely beautiful Narciso Rodriguez show that closed another day of New York fashion week.
The Fall ’14 Ready-to-Wear collections are under way in New York, and will be followed by the shows in London, Milan, and Paris. Before the new clothes hit the runway, we’ve asked some of the most anticipated names to offer a sneak peek. Per usual, it’s a busy time for all—designers and fashion followers alike—so we’re continuing our split-second previews: tweet-length at 140 characters or less. Our entire collection of Fall ’14 previews is available here.
WHO: Narciso Rodriguez
WHERE: New York
WHEN: Tuesday, February 11
WHAT: “Sculptural and structural, both fluid and crisp, silhouettes reminiscent of Lynn Chadwick’s walking figures.”—Narciso Rodriguez. The designer sent us an inspiration image, two Lynn Chadwick sculptures, above.