68 posts tagged "Nicholas Kirkwood"
Now that he’s had a few months to settle into his new home at LVMH, Nicholas Kirkwood is poised to rocket into new directions with a fresh range of silhouettes and categories. Despite an irresistible jewel-tone palette, Fall ’14 is less about whimsical color combinations (like we saw last season) than it is about shape, structure, and updated signatures.
One of Kirkwood’s latest obsessions, furniture by Constructivist artist Naum Gabo, provided ample fodder for a sculptural metal heel, a motif the designer magnifies and works in negative space as cutouts on black leather boots.
Not only is he bringing extra flourishes to his cocktail shoes with buckles or a slice of metal at the base of a heel, Kirkwood is also ramping up his red-carpet fare. “We’re thinking about metallics—they go with everything—crystals, and more true evening shoes as separate from cocktail shoes,” he explained. As for that much-awaited bag, Kirkwood offered, “A truly iconic bag will run for fifty years, but it takes time to find The One.”
The Sophia Webster secret is out. The shoe designer who apprenticed under Nicholas Kirkwood and is now mentored by him and his business partner, Christopher Suarez, has exploded in popularity. This is largely due to her love of mismatched zigzags, stripes, flamingos, candy colors, and plain old girly charm—never mind her signature speech-bubble clutches that became last season’s must-have. More evidence of her success came in the form of the 2013 British Fashion Council win for Emerging Accessory Designer, then in January she was one of three talents to scoop up the Mayor of London and BFC’s Fashion Forward prize.
Webster’s Fall ’14 presentation at her Covent Garden pop-up shop proved that she’s continuing her ascent. The setup was “Heartbreak Hotel” via the bedroom of a turbo princess—think the film Clueless. Props included tiny handbag dogs, fluff, frippery, and general spoilt brat, daddy’s girl-esque excesses. Models lounged around in some statement looks, including knee-high-heeled sandals, which, crafted from shearling and garnished with crayon-colored accents, had a caged-calf dominatrix effect. We doubt daddy would approve. That vixen look was tempered by a lot of soft, fluffy wares, including a darling blush pink velvet pump and stilettos adorned with fur, pompoms, gold ball bearings, and chunky details.
Webster has no doubt been busy since we saw her in September—she got married, designed a collaboration with J.Crew, and released a line of adorable baby shoes. But if Fall ’14 is any indication, this designer isn’t slowing down. You can expect to be hearing a lot more about this bright young spark going forward.
Spring may not be right around the corner, but we’re hoping our shopping habits will send out some warm weather vibes. Color blocking was all over the Spring ’14 runways, seen on whisper-thin layers at Theyskens’ Theory to splashy neoprene at Tommy Hilfiger, and we can’t wait to wear it this season. Clashing, ultra-bright hues feel sculptural on simple shapes, and there’s no denying the effortless, throw-on-and-go possibilities of a color block sweatshirt or skirt. Even if you opt for a subtler approach–say, blingy earrings or a pair of standout shoes–the result is undoubtedly fun. Shop our favorite color block pieces from Nicholas Kirkwood, Stella McCartney, Kenzo, and more, below.
1. Stella McCartney color-block cashmere sweater, $1,040, available at net-a-porter.com
2. Kenzo “Kalifornia” color-block leather clutch, $250, available at modaoperandi.com
3. Nicholas Kirkwood snakeskin, suede, and patent leather platform sandals, $955, available at modaoperandi.com
4. Dannijo “Cruz” earrings, $260, available at shopbop.com
5. Ostwald Helgason green and mint double-face skirt, $735, available at ssense.com
Peter Pilotto is having quite a year—and it’s only February. Today, Peter Pilotto and Christopher de Vos, the digital-print masters behind the brand, have won the 2014 BFC/Vogue Designer Fashion Fund, which includes a yearlong mentoring program and hefty £200,000 grant. Pilotto and De Vos were up against ready-to-wear designers Emilia Wickstead, Mary Katrantzou, Osman, Zoë Jordan, and House of Holland, and join the ranks of previous winners like Christopher Kane, Erdem, Jonathan Saunders, and 2013 champ Nicholas Kirkwood, who sold a majority stake of his brand to LVMH less than a year after his victory. With a hotly anticipated Target collaboration hitting stores on February 9, Peter Pilotto’s potential for total world domination is looking good. If Target’s website crashes, they’ll know they’ve really made it.
This morning, NEWGEN, the British Fashion Council’s Topshop-sponsored emerging talent scheme, announced the seven new talents who will receive sponsorship to present their Fall ’14 collections during London fashion week in February. Fledgling designers and brands including 1205, Marques’Almeida, Lucas Nascimento and Simone Rocha (left) will receive support for their runway shows while designer Ryan Lo, a Fashion East alum, will receive funding for a presentation. Meanwhile, Claire Barrow (another Fashion East grad) and Danielle Romeril will house their new collections in an exhibition space. The NEWGEN committee, chaired by journalist Sarah Mower, MBE, selects designers based on their creative strengths and distinct points of view. Past awardees have included Alexander McQueen, Christopher Kane, Mary Katrantzou, Nicholas Kirkwood, Jonathan Saunders, and J.W. Anderson.