69 posts tagged "Nicholas Kirkwood"
Narrowing down more than 5,000 bags, shoes, and jewels—no easy feat. But then, it is our job. In the midst of compiling our Fall 2011 Accessories Index, we’ve all come across a few favorites we’re saving up for come September. Below, Style.com’s editors on the pieces they can’t wait to get their hands on.
“I’ve been on the lookout for a pair of light brown boots for a while. Phillip Lim’s will look great with all of my denim flares, and they have the added attraction of a friendly price point too.” —Nicole Phelps, executive editor
“Wilfredo Rosado is my favorite new designer to watch. After years working with Mr. Armani, he’s launching a fine jewelry collection this fall; if you noticed Gwyneth Paltrow’s pink feather earrings at the Grammys this year, you’ve already seen his unique pieces in action. This pendant in one of my favorites—you have to look at it twice to notice that it’s not just your old classic cameo.” —Marina Larroude, senior market editor
“The shape of this Chloé bag reminds me of Coach’s old bucket bags—which I still stalk on eBay to this day. The patchwork of exotic skins also seems like it would go with every piece of outerwear I own, including my leopard swing coat—no small feat.” —Celia Ellenberg, senior beauty editor
“Let’s just say I am seriously considering a weekend job so I can kick it in these forest green/fuchsia Kirkwood pumps come Fall.” —Brittany Adams, associate fashion editor
Fashion nomenclature is important. Just pull up in your memory banks anything from the New Look skirt and the Mondrian dress to the Baguette, Paddington, and Tribute. So it’s occasionally a disappointment when Nicholas Kirkwood, one of the industry’s most imaginative shoe designers, looks a bit puzzled when asked if one of his works has a name. But while showing his latest collection earlier this week in Paris, Kirkwood held up a black leather platform sandal with a stiff, stand-up ruff of black goat hair (above left). “I call it the Don King shoe,” he said with a smile. Well, that’s a start.
The biggest headline this season is easily Kirkwood’s Most Expensive Shoe Ever. It’s his classic futuristic-looking platform sandal fully embroidered with gold-hued metal thread, inspired by a Moroccan slipper (below left). If you’re dying to buy the neo-baroque wonder for around $7,000, you’ll either have to sort out Moda Operandi’s buying window or totter over to Kirkwood’s new Mount Street boutique in London. (You might even catch a glimpse of the designer himself. It’s in the same building as his studio.)
That’s also where he’ll be showing off his collaboration with the Keith Haring Foundation. As seems to be a retail trend, the store has an exhibition space in front. “We’re going to have like eight-foot crawling babies and barking dogs,” explained Kirkwood. And of course, shoes. “It’s not going to be just a print on a shoe. That’s too obvious,” he said. “I want to try something like a crawling baby heel.” By comparison, some of Fall’s new directions—whether the knobby stiletto, madly sculptural wedge platform, or the lace-patterned fabrication that’s laser-cut satin fused with suede and then embossed—seem almost easy. How does his Italian factory respond to all of his various out-of-the-shoe-box requests? Kirkwood smiled again, “They want to kill me.”
Nicholas Kirkwood’s first full collection as creative director of Pollini started with a decidedly not Kirkwood-esque flat riding boot—a tidbit of the Italian brand’s heritage—but it didn’t stay there long. “It’s inspired by this equestrian, menswear kind of detailing,” Kirkwood said. “But it’s giving it new life.”
In Kirkwood’s countryside, the Aran knit is turned into a trompe l’oeil printed suede on an open-toed sandal bootie with a gently flared and stacked heel. Hardy Blundstone-esque ankle boots are raised up on needle heels, and his signature cut-out geometric platform sandal now comes in homey brown felt backed with acid-hued leather for slivery flashes of color.
Kirkwood explained that Pollini’s heyday was in the seventies. That brought out jewel-bright suede booties and tasseled pumps, some with gold horse bits. Funnily enough, one of the biggest points of excitement from this footwear virtuoso were the bags. He’s done several styles, but chose to feature just one—a tidy shoulder bag with a smooth arc of brass hardware called the Amisse—in several different fabrications. There was a chocolate-box assortment: a perfect caramel leather along with a rainbow of suedes and classic-hued embossed croc and woven leather. It would be tough to choose just one, but seeing as they all ring in under $1,000, you don’t necessarily have to.
In the lead-up to New York fashion week, designers go through hundreds of behind-the-scenes preparations to arrive at the completed show. This NYFW, we’ve sweet-talked a few of them into giving us an exclusive peek behind the curtain as they cast, score, style, and ready their presentations. Next up: Prabal Gurung.
“It’s all about the details—the perfect draping and fit is crucial to each and every piece. I had [patternmaker] Nicolas Caito come in and work his brilliance. And the blush pink color of this dress…well, kind of makes me blush!” Continue Reading “Prabal Gurung’s Fashion Week Diary” »
Tonight in London, the British Fashion Awards honored the best and brightest in the world of London style. Nick Knight screened a new fashion film to honor the late Alexander McQueen, winner of the BFC Outstanding Achievement Award in Fashion Design, and Celine’s Phoebe Philo (left) took home the prize for British Designer of the Year. English/Dutch model Lara Stone was named Model of the Year, and reluctant It girl Alexa Chung earned the British Style Award, which is decided by popular vote and “recognizes an individual who embodies the spirit of London and is an international ambassador for London as a leading creative fashion capital.”
The full list of winners is below, and check back with us for our full report from the evening’s festivities.
BFC Outstanding Achievement in Fashion Design: Lee Alexander McQueen
Designer of the Year: Phoebe Philo for Celine
Menswear Designer of the Year: Patrick Grant for E. Tautz
Accessory Designer of the Year: Nicholas Kirkwood
Designer Brand of the Year: Mulberry
Model of the Year: Lara Stone
Emerging Talent Award, Ready-to-Wear: Meadham Kirchhoff
Emerging Talent Award, Accessories: Husam El Odeh
Isabella Blow Award for Fashion Creator: Nicola Formichetti
British Style Award: Alexa Chung
Special Recognition Award: Naomi Campbell
Digital Innovation Award: Burberry