72 posts tagged "Nicholas Kirkwood"
Kirkwood’s U.S. Open, “The Patron Saint of Hipsters” Heads To Brooklyn, Cake Walking On The Runways in New Zealand, And More…-------
Nicholas Kirkwood is setting up shop in the States. The British footwear designer will open his first U.S. store in New York on Washington Street early next year. [WWD]
Taavo Somer (left), the man behind Freemans restaurant, Freemans Sporting Club, and the Rusty Knot, opens his highly anticipated Brooklyn restaurant, Isa, next week. What should we expect from “one of downtown’s most imitated tastemakers of the last decade?” For one thing, no deer heads, that’s for sure. [NYT]
We have a few days until New York fashion week begins, but New Zealanders got a head start with their very own fashion week. Here’s something you don’t normally see at a runway show: Auckland-based label Huffer closed with a patriotically dressed model popping out of a cake. Sweet! [Huffington Post]
Designer Catherine Malandrino has cancelled her New York fashion week presentation. Hurricane Irene is not to blame for this one-the designer’s rep says “the company is in a time of transition” and “we’ll be back in February.” [Page Six]
“I was in a romantic mood this time around,” Lulu Kennedy reported at the star-studded lunch to celebrate the Fall collection from her supergroup-style label, Lulu & Co., at the very swank Harry’s Bar, a venue that’s light-years away from her gritty home turf in East London. Kennedy (pictured, right) is the founder of Fashion East, the legendary talent incubator that’s spawned the likes of Gareth Pugh, Jonathan Saunders, Richard Nicoll, and Roksanda Ilincic, and for her namesake label, she collaborates with her protegés and other young guns of interest. Her mood this year led her to include a few couples as collaborators, including artists Tim Noble and Sue Webster, besties Bella Freud (center) and Susie Bick, and photographer and art director Patrick Waugh and Alistair McLellan.
Kennedy and business partner Tania Fares (left) created Lulu & Co. last year to celebrate a decade of Fashion East, and it proved so popular they did it again. As last season, there’s a retrospective shine over the whole. “This year, it’s a mix of Fashion East past and present,” Kennedy said. “We have the couples who are new, but also the old—the journeymen of Fashion East like Jonny Saunders and Richard Nicoll. We worked hard at making the clothes more affordable and wearable.” (There’s a word not always top of mind for Kennedy’s kindred on their own runways.)
Charlotte Dellal, Mary McCartney (Stella’s photographer sister), Camilla Al Fayed, Sara Parker Bowles, Liberty Ross, and a clutch of designers including Roland Mouret, Erdem Moralioglu (below left), Roksanda Ilincic, Nicholas Kirkwood (below right), and Marios Schwab all stopped by to toast to the new. (Though Harry’s did make for a bit of culture clash—Henry Holland tweeted that he needed to get special dispensation to enter wearing his shorts.)
Of course, as more and more interest is directed at London’s new garde, there’ll be plenty more meet-ups of the gritty and the glamorous. England has just gotten a stylish new royal client of particularly high profile, and one wonders if she’ll be as receptive to young U.K. designers as her counterpart of sorts, Michelle Obama, has been to young Americans. “I think her McQueen wedding dress was beautiful, but I think now she should turn her eye to some other U.K. designers,” Kennedy said. “We are working on Resort now with Roksanda, and there is this gorgeous black and white draped number and I thought, wow, this dress needs an occasion and certainly [the Duchess of Cambridge] will have plenty of those. We will send her the lookbook, so fingers crossed. I mean, Mrs. Obama chose Roksanda, so here’s hoping that the Duchess will, too.”
Narrowing down more than 5,000 bags, shoes, and jewels—no easy feat. But then, it is our job. In the midst of compiling our Fall 2011 Accessories Index, we’ve all come across a few favorites we’re saving up for come September. Below, Style.com’s editors on the pieces they can’t wait to get their hands on.
“I’ve been on the lookout for a pair of light brown boots for a while. Phillip Lim’s will look great with all of my denim flares, and they have the added attraction of a friendly price point too.” —Nicole Phelps, executive editor
“Wilfredo Rosado is my favorite new designer to watch. After years working with Mr. Armani, he’s launching a fine jewelry collection this fall; if you noticed Gwyneth Paltrow’s pink feather earrings at the Grammys this year, you’ve already seen his unique pieces in action. This pendant in one of my favorites—you have to look at it twice to notice that it’s not just your old classic cameo.” —Marina Larroude, senior market editor
“The shape of this Chloé bag reminds me of Coach’s old bucket bags—which I still stalk on eBay to this day. The patchwork of exotic skins also seems like it would go with every piece of outerwear I own, including my leopard swing coat—no small feat.” —Celia Ellenberg, senior beauty editor
“Let’s just say I am seriously considering a weekend job so I can kick it in these forest green/fuchsia Kirkwood pumps come Fall.” —Brittany Adams, associate fashion editor
Fashion nomenclature is important. Just pull up in your memory banks anything from the New Look skirt and the Mondrian dress to the Baguette, Paddington, and Tribute. So it’s occasionally a disappointment when Nicholas Kirkwood, one of the industry’s most imaginative shoe designers, looks a bit puzzled when asked if one of his works has a name. But while showing his latest collection earlier this week in Paris, Kirkwood held up a black leather platform sandal with a stiff, stand-up ruff of black goat hair (above left). “I call it the Don King shoe,” he said with a smile. Well, that’s a start.
The biggest headline this season is easily Kirkwood’s Most Expensive Shoe Ever. It’s his classic futuristic-looking platform sandal fully embroidered with gold-hued metal thread, inspired by a Moroccan slipper (below left). If you’re dying to buy the neo-baroque wonder for around $7,000, you’ll either have to sort out Moda Operandi’s buying window or totter over to Kirkwood’s new Mount Street boutique in London. (You might even catch a glimpse of the designer himself. It’s in the same building as his studio.)
That’s also where he’ll be showing off his collaboration with the Keith Haring Foundation. As seems to be a retail trend, the store has an exhibition space in front. “We’re going to have like eight-foot crawling babies and barking dogs,” explained Kirkwood. And of course, shoes. “It’s not going to be just a print on a shoe. That’s too obvious,” he said. “I want to try something like a crawling baby heel.” By comparison, some of Fall’s new directions—whether the knobby stiletto, madly sculptural wedge platform, or the lace-patterned fabrication that’s laser-cut satin fused with suede and then embossed—seem almost easy. How does his Italian factory respond to all of his various out-of-the-shoe-box requests? Kirkwood smiled again, “They want to kill me.”