August 23 2014

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72 posts tagged "Nicholas Kirkwood"

Breaking: Nicholas Kirkwood Is Not Losing His Edge


“If I want to be a shoe brand and not so niche, I need to embrace the simple shoe,” Nicholas Kirkwood said between sales appointments at his showroom in the Marais. “My focus is on making a part of the collection for everyday.” His face betrayed a slight worry. After all, Kirkwood has amassed a relatively small but fiercely loyal and possessive following—a group that doesn’t want to hear that their creative genius is bowing to practical concerns. So it’s with a touch of hesitation that Britain’s favorite cobbler son is expanding his oeuvre of fantastical, killer shoes.

What’s new in the house of Kirkwood? First, the divisive low heel. “I’ve never done a normal kitten heel,” he explained. “I thought, let’s just make it look kind of awkward, but it’s actually done quite well.” Kirkwood’s sling-back versions are raised up on platforms to give a kittenish look with a bit more height. There’s some straightforward sexiness in a black patent sling-back or a slightly asymmetrical snake d’Orsay pump. But what could be the perfect everyday option for the Kirkwood girl when she’s flying under the radar are the very chic and sportif d’Orsay buckled sandal boots in plain tobacco or black leather and a stacked leather sole. Look out for the distinguishing Kirkwood mark: a tiny sliver of pale gray just above the heel cap.

Worry not, though, Kirkwood-klatch. There are still shoes upon which to feast your eyes. What caught ours: the naughty-nice (OK, more naughty) high platform satin sling-backs and pumps covered in digital prints by designer Hermione de Paula. There’s also more Kirkwood to be had through his new work for Italian house Pollini, which he managed to get on a few runways this season, including Preen, Louise Gray, Meadham Kirchhoff, and Manish Arora. “It’s nice to have that, to make Pollini relevant,” he said. “My job is to make them cool and to get them into stores.”

Photos: Courtesy of Nicholas Kirkwood

Gather Ye Rosebud(-Printed Pumps) While Ye May, Men In Heels Get A New Mascot, And More…


Loved the runway footwear Nicholas Kirkwood created for Erdem and Peter Pilotto? Good news: the floral-printed heels from Erdem’s Spring ’11 show, and the graphic, geometric ones from Peter Pilotto’s Spring ’11 one (pictured) are now available at a “pop-up” e-commerce shop—one that’s set to close in a little less than 2 days. Run, don’t walk if you’re interested (presumably, though, not in Kirkwood heels). [ASVOF]

Rei Kawakubo of Comme des Garçons is putting her latest spin on a classic. She’s collaborating with the house of Paco Rabanne to reissue a 1969 Rabanne bag during Paris fashion week. [WWD]

Men in heels have been making strides—no pun intended—of late, and now they’ve got a celebrity mascot: Lenny Kravitz, who hit the town in a pair of leather wedges. [Gawker]

And Detmar Blow wants Rachel Weisz to play his late wife, Isabella, onscreen. [Fashionologie]

Photo: Courtesy of Nicholas Kirkwood

Nicholas Kirkwood Goes Pop


Nicholas Kirkwood was in Hong Kong this week to launch his new space in On Pedder at Joyce, the city’s go-to accessories mecca. But the real excitement wasn’t about real estate—it was the sneak peek he gave of his latest collaboration, with the estate of eighties Pop artist Keith Haring.

“I watched this documentary called The Universe of Keith Haring, and though I know his style, I hadn’t seen the breadth of his work. I couldn’t stop thinking about how amazing and prolific he was and how great it would be to incorporate his graphics into my designs,” Kirkwood explained. “So I ended up approaching the Keith Haring Foundation. I had to really sell them the product, but I think they’re pretty happy with the end result.”

So are we—especially as this collection of 12 styles features the very first Nicholas Kirkwood ballerina flat, perfect for those who can’t quite pull off his androgynous lace-ups or are too practical to don his vertigo-inducing heels. The Keith Haring by Nicholas Kirkwood range will be available worldwide in February 2011, but for those who can’t wait, there’ll be a NK treat at London fashion week in September. Kirkwood will be launching an eight-day pop-up shop online, where his collaborations with Rodarte, Erdem, and Peter Pilotto will be available for pre-sale, with the promise of an early delivery to beat the shop floors. “I’m quite excited to see how sales works online,” the designer says of his first foray into direct sales. “I know a lot of other brands have done it successfully, so we’ll see how it goes.” We’re willing to bet—very, very well.

Photos: Courtesy of Nicholas Kirkwood

Erdem Takes The Prize


The British Fashion Council announced today that Erdem Moralioglu is the winner of the first BFC/Vogue Designer Fashion Fund Award, beating out fellow Britons Angel Jackson, Christopher Kane, Clements Ribeiro, E. Tautz, Marios Schwab, Nicholas Kirkwood, and Richard Nicoll. The award comes with a £200,000 prize and access to mentors across the industry. “I am thrilled to be the winner of the BFC/Vogue Fashion Fund. It is an honor,” the Turkish-born designer said simply.

Click here for a look back through Erdem’s recent collections.

Photo: David Fisher/Rex/Rex USA

Peter Pilotto’s Only Happy When It Rains


The British Fashion Council imported a truckload of London-based designers to hang out in NYC for the week, and more than a few of them turned up at the Jane Hotel outpost of Cafe Gitane last night for a dinner in honor of Peter Pilotto. Pilotto and partner Christopher De Vos got the wine ‘n’ dine treatment courtesy of hosts Humberto Leon and Carol Lim, and the guest list was suitably transatlantic: Team U.K. included Nicholas Kirkwood, Louise Gray, and Linda Farrow’s Simon Jablon, while Team U.S.A. was capably represented by Spike Jonze, Jen Brill, actress Greta Gerwig, and Fiery Furnaces frontwoman Eleanor Friedberger, among others. Naturally, talk turned-—as it will—to static cling. “Every other minute, it was ‘zap, zap,’” recalled De Vos (pictured, center, with Pilotto), unspooling an anecdote about the “epic” staticky-ness of the studio he and Pilotto moved into last summer. Long story short, the unusually hot and dry weather had combined with the studio’s layout and engineering to produce a superconductive atmosphere. “All the fabric was sticking,” De Vos continued. “People were telling us, spray hair spray on the models. I mean, it was impossible to drape.” Ultimately, the situation was redressed courtesy of about a dozen humidifiers, but De Vos and Pilotto admit that their Spring ’10 collection came this close to being ultra-body con, because it began to seem easier to go with the cling than to fight it. “You almost never hear this in London,” De Vos said, “but I have to tell you, we were happy to have some rain.”