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April 24 2014

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69 posts tagged "Nicholas Kirkwood"

Erdem Takes The Prize

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The British Fashion Council announced today that Erdem Moralioglu is the winner of the first BFC/Vogue Designer Fashion Fund Award, beating out fellow Britons Angel Jackson, Christopher Kane, Clements Ribeiro, E. Tautz, Marios Schwab, Nicholas Kirkwood, and Richard Nicoll. The award comes with a £200,000 prize and access to mentors across the industry. “I am thrilled to be the winner of the BFC/Vogue Fashion Fund. It is an honor,” the Turkish-born designer said simply.

Click here for a look back through Erdem’s recent collections.

Photo: David Fisher/Rex/Rex USA

Peter Pilotto’s Only Happy When It Rains

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The British Fashion Council imported a truckload of London-based designers to hang out in NYC for the week, and more than a few of them turned up at the Jane Hotel outpost of Cafe Gitane last night for a dinner in honor of Peter Pilotto. Pilotto and partner Christopher De Vos got the wine ‘n’ dine treatment courtesy of hosts Humberto Leon and Carol Lim, and the guest list was suitably transatlantic: Team U.K. included Nicholas Kirkwood, Louise Gray, and Linda Farrow’s Simon Jablon, while Team U.S.A. was capably represented by Spike Jonze, Jen Brill, actress Greta Gerwig, and Fiery Furnaces frontwoman Eleanor Friedberger, among others. Naturally, talk turned-—as it will—to static cling. “Every other minute, it was ‘zap, zap,’” recalled De Vos (pictured, center, with Pilotto), unspooling an anecdote about the “epic” staticky-ness of the studio he and Pilotto moved into last summer. Long story short, the unusually hot and dry weather had combined with the studio’s layout and engineering to produce a superconductive atmosphere. “All the fabric was sticking,” De Vos continued. “People were telling us, spray hair spray on the models. I mean, it was impossible to drape.” Ultimately, the situation was redressed courtesy of about a dozen humidifiers, but De Vos and Pilotto admit that their Spring ’10 collection came this close to being ultra-body con, because it began to seem easier to go with the cling than to fight it. “You almost never hear this in London,” De Vos said, “but I have to tell you, we were happy to have some rain.”

These Boots Were Made For Buying

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If you need any evidence that Nicholas Kirkwood is London fashion week’s go-to cobbler, look no further than the display he’s set up at LFW’s Somerset House headquarters. After every show in which a Kirkwood shoe appears, a pair is added to the installation—at last count, half a dozen pairs. But fans can rejoice that one new pair will be available off the runway, too: the collaborative Kirkwood-Erdem boots that debuted at Erdem’s show yesterday will be sold to stores, making them only the second NK collab (after his designs for Rodarte) made available to the public.

Photo: Marcio Madeira/FirstView.com

Preen Breaks Into The Boys’ Club

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Womenswear has been borrowing more and more from menswear of late, and for their latest collection, Preen designers Justin Thornton and Thea Bregazzi went after big game, sartorially speaking: They’ve commissioned tailoring from the historic Savile Row house Gieves & Hawkes, which has until now only produced menswear. According to G&H head of design Frederik Willems, the Preen garments were built off menswear blocks and reworked to female-friendly specs. Preen is planning to feature six to eight of the collaborative pieces (like the preview sketch, left) at tomorrow’s show, accessorized with the womanliest of womenswear: Nicholas Kirkwood shoes.

Nicholas, Chloé, Ann, And More Take On Alice

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Last week, we previewed a sketch of Nicholas Kirkwood’s Alice in Wonderland-inspired heels, made on commission for the French department store Printemps, which is giving over its windows to all things Alice through March. (Sad to say, they’re window-only—you’ll have to find another pair to wear to the theater.) For the installation, Kirkwood is joined by Ann Demeulemeester, Alexander McQueen, Bernhard Willhelm, Charles Anastase, Christopher Kane, Chloé, Haider Ackermann, Manish Arora, and Maison Martin Margiela, each of whom were given a window to fill as they saw fit. The windows went up this week in Paris. Below, Style.com takes a tour through the various Wonderlands and asks a few of the participating designers and design teams about their trip there.

The windows are on view through March 14 at Printemps, 64 Boulevard Haussmann, Paris, 33-1-42-82-57-87, www.printemps.fr.

“I think my favorite Alice character is the March Hare. You can see I’ve made his watch rather prominent. This was a different design process for me, because I’m not usually so applicative—typically, I’m thinking about line, silhouette. But this time, I figured, why not just pile as much as I can on top?” —Nicholas Kirkwood

“I went to John Tenniel’s original illustration of Alice for inspiration. She’s seated at a table having tea, and her dress looks much more asymmetrical and theatrical than that boring Walt Disney version. It was also an auto-reference to my collections, as Lewis Carroll’s work has been one of the main inspirations of my label since its creation. Alice Liddell, the real little girl with long dark hair who inspired Carroll, is one of the very few icons that I have. The pictures of her are a constant inspiration for me.” —Charles Anastase
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