69 posts tagged "Nicholas Kirkwood"
Nicholas Kirkwood has never been to Morocco, but for Spring ’14, he’s in a Marrakech state of mind. High-perched styles include lacy, laser-cut leathers and raffia heels in bright orange with fuchsia details that play with a cool seventies sports feel, while a new line of super-soft moccasins in hot colors seems to point to bright horizons. But the designer’s not headed for sunny climes anytime soon: “The industry doesn’t really let you do that anymore—as soon as I’m done with this collection, I’m already late for pre-collection!” That and Kirkwood’s newly signed partnership with LVMH (“They’re the best partner you could dream of,” he said) will keep him plenty busy. On the agenda: more staff, more shops, and more smart day options, like his first thong sandal and a cork-sole moccasin that picks up on elements of the men’s collection. He’s also gearing up to “capture fashion in midheight”—to that end, he has just secured the patent to his signature triangular heel. The blowout vacation will just have to wait.
You can’t say we didn’t warn you. Today, WWD reports that after scooping up Nicholas Kirkwood last week, LVMH has purchased a minority stake in up-and-coming British brand J.W. Anderson (designed by Jonathan Anderson). Oh, but that’s not all. Anderson, 29, has also signed on as the creative director of Loewe, stepping into the shoes of Stuart Vevers, who announced in June that he was leaving the Spanish house to replace Reed Krakoff at Coach. Sound like a lot for the emerging talent to take on? It is. But if Anderson has the guts to send boys in sheer lace jumpsuits and ruffled tube tops down the runway, we’re pretty sure he’s up for anything—particularly if that anything is injecting a youthful edge into Loewe’s classic look.
Following months of rumors, it was announced this morning that LVMH has acquired a majority stake in London-based footwear label, Nicholas Kirkwood. “It’s with a great sense of excitement and pride that I enter into this partnership,” offered Kirkwood in a press release. “LVMH is home to the most celebrated and revered brands and talents in our industry, and has an implicit understanding of luxury. From my first meeting with Delphine Arnault and Pierre‐Yves Roussel of LVMH, it was clear that LVMH would be the best partner for our brand as we have the same values of design, creativity, and craftsmanship.”
Having launched in 2005, Kirkwood’s brand hasn’t done too shabbily on its own. The Central Saint Martins-trained designer—known for his playful approach to colorful, sexed-up shoes—has stand alone stores in New York, London, and Las Vegas, is sold at retailers worldwide, won the 2013 BFA/Vogue Fashion Fund Award, and launched a men’s range earlier this year. Needles to say, with LVMH backing his already flourishing business, further expansion is nigh. Only one question remains: is J.W. Anderson next?
By now, the Linda Farrow story is one of lore. Ten years ago, Tracy Sedino and her boyfriend, Simon Jablon (Linda Farrow’s table tennis-champ son), were redecorating an old warehouse that belonged to his designer mom. And by pure fortune, they discovered a box filled with old sunglasses that Linda had created for Balenciaga, Dior, and YSL in the seventies. The rest is history.
Ten years on and happily married to Jablon, Sedino has been busy fulfilling her mother-in-law’s design dream that was put aside for love, marriage, and children. In the past decade, with Jablon quarterbacking the business angle, Sedino has developed the Linda Farrow brand to an extreme: Their stand-alone products have drawn a legion of fans (think Rihanna, Gaga, Queen Bey, Madonna), and their collaborations have raised the bar even higher. Jeremy Scott, Erdem, Dries Van Noten, Oscar de la Renta, The Row, and Matthew Williamson are just a few designers with whom the brand has worked hand in hand.
To fete their ten-year diamond anniversary, Sedino is taking the brand and its muse—a giant doe-eyed raven-haired doll called Penelope—on a whirlwind road show. First stop was Colette, where Penelope wore Sedino’s Alexander McQueen wedding dress, and now, to Selfridges, where the brand has a “shop-in-shop”—the new parlance for pop-up shop. Sedino and Jablon have called upon ten brands, including Nicholas Kirkwood, Mawi, Falke, and Agent Provocateur to come up with a limited-edition selection of goodies (which will be available until October) to celebrate. And these products are not your typical eyewear. A gold detailed heel from Nicholas Kirkwood, some very naughty bow-detailed pantyhose from Falke, a super-sexy aromatic candle from Cire Trudon, and a Lycra playsuit-cum-harness from Agent Provocateur (which reminds us of something out of Fifty Shades) gives us a clue as to what is on the couple’s minds as they commemorate ten years of marriage and business. A clutch from Bottega Veneta PT 1 and a fur from Saga give the collection just enough grown-up veneer to sugarcoat the boudoir naughtiness. Good to know the flame hasn’t gone out—all ten-year anniversaries should be like this one.
Watch out, Kering. LVMH is comin’ round the bend on the young designer investment front—or it’s rumored to be, anyway. Today, WWD reports that LVMH is believed to be in talks with London-based up-and-comer Jonathan Anderson of J.W.Anderson. The emerging talent, known for his wares’ slick cuts and androgynous appeal, has been on the rise for the past few seasons. Earlier this year, he launched his very first ad campaign, which debuted exclusively here. And who could forget his collaboration with Versace’s Versus? No doubt, a little help from LVMH would further elevate his line—and his profile. In related news, there have been whispers the past few months that LVMH is looking to invest in accessories designer Nicholas Kirkwood’s growing business, too. This all comes on the heels of Kering’s headline-making move to buy a 51 percent stake in Christopher Kane in January, as well as the company’s purchase of shares in Altuzarra just last week. All in all, it looks like luxury parent corps are invested in funding the future of fashion—here’s hoping the designers will continue to stay their respective creative courses.