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August 27 2014

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72 posts tagged "Nicholas Kirkwood"

Sophia Webster Plays With Pop

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Pieces from Sophia Webster's Resort '14

“I like to bring out the little girl who likes to dress up,” said Sophia Webster at her pre-spring ’14 presentation. Webster is the latest rising star from across the pond, and she has been gaining buzz among industry insiders thanks to her whimsical, oh-so-British shoe and accessories line. (Since launching in 2012, her cheeky girlish Aztec-print heels and candy-colored handbags have already won over fashion magpies like Anna Dello Russo and Miroslava Duma.)

Rather than tracking current trends, Webster—who studied fine art and apprenticed under Nicholas Kirkwood for two years—cites pop culture as inspiration, naming styles after personal fashion icons, like the RiRi (a lace-up bootie–sandal hybrid) and the Azealia (a glitter-adorned convertible box clutch). “I tend not to look to other designers as a source of inspiration; it muddies what you’re trying to do,” the 28-year-old designer told Style.com. “I’d rather look at an artist or listen to inspiring music.” To wit, the line, which ranges from $195 to $700, is chock-full of Zeitgeist-y references—from jelly sandals and a play on Destiny’s Child’s R&B anthem “Bootylicious” to cartoonish clutches emblazoned with rap lyrics by Nicki Minaj. Continue Reading “Sophia Webster Plays With Pop” »

Yasmin Sewell: Beach Babe

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Thomas Tait Shirts

On May 18, London-based fashion consultant and purveyor of cool Yasmin Sewell joined forces with Paper Mache Tiger to open Beach in the East—a graffitied, California-inspired Shoreditch pop-up replete with bespoke wares by the likes of Acne Studios, Eddie Borgo, and Reece Hudson. But those unable to scoot over to the UK before the store closes on August 24 are in luck, because Sewell has teamed with Farfetch.com to launch a virtual (and thus international) version of her shop. Starting tomorrow, the retailer will offer items that on-the-rise and independent designers created specifically for the project. For instance, Thomas Tait, whose last collection was skater-themed, produced a cycling top (above, right); House of Holland turned out a pair of polka-dot jeans; quirky shoe designer Sophia Webster (who got her start as Nicholas Kirkwood’s apprentice) designed a set of palm-tree-heeled sunset flats (below, right); and new talent Joe Duke created a range of hand-printed vintage denim jackets and vests (below, left). The shop will be replenished with all new limited-edition styles throughout the summer, and most items are priced below $300. Continue Reading “Yasmin Sewell: Beach Babe” »

Limitless Luxury, 24/7

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Jean-Phillipe Delhomme's sketch for The Mark Hotel x Bergdorf Goodman 

Have you ever urgently needed a Lanvin frock at 2 a.m.? What about a pair of Nicholas Kirkwood pumps. No? Even so, we bet guests at The Mark hotel will find a host of reasons for late-night sartorial demands. Starting tomorrow, The Mark—the five-star Upper East Side lodging establishment favored by Carine Roitfeld, Russell Crowe, and Marc Jacobs, who decamped to the hotel during Sandy—will launch a partnership with Bergdorf Goodman. The union will solve any and all designer emergencies, providing guests with twenty-four-hour access to Bergdorf’s personal shoppers and, in some cases, after-hours admission to the store itself. “We make the impossible possible,” the hotel’s chief concierge, Isabelle Hogan, told Style.com. Hard-to-get items will also be readily available—for instance, if, say, a new Céline bag hits shelves in the morning, The Mark will give Todd Okerstrom—Bergdorf’s head of personal shopping—a call, and you can have it sitting on your bed by lunchtime. Delivery is, of course, complimentary.

 

The Mark hotel is located at 25 East 77th Street, New York, NY 10075.

Illustration: Jean-Phillipe Delhomme

Ladies who Lunch

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“I’m literally here for a few hours,” said shoe designer Nicholas Kirkwood, who flew to New York from London for a luncheon at Bergdorf Goodman yesterday. The occasion? The arrival of his new Spring collection, which, featuring pearl-soled pumps and swirling metallic sandals, was on display in the center of the department store’s famed shoe floor. “It’s nice to meet the customers and have lunch with some New York ladies,” laughed Kirkwood, who revealed that he’s opening a new store in the Wynn Las Vegas this June and hopes to launch handbags in the next year.

Indeed, he attracted quite a set of ladies—from New York and elsewhere. The likes of Shala Monroque, Suno’s Erin Beatty, Hannah Bronfman, and Julie Gilhart joined hosts Cecilia Dean and Leslie Fremar to fete Kirkwood. A five-months-pregnant Margherita Missoni took a break from renovating her and her husband’s New York pad to dine with the designer. “I have a harder time wearing very, very high heels now,” conceded Missoni, who’s working on a book to celebrate the sixtieth anniversary of her family’s house. “I’m loving wedges, so I bought three pairs to wear over the summer. And I’m so over platforms.” If the Spring trend reports are any indication, she’s not alone. “I’ve been trying to do single soles since 2009,” said Kirkwood. “I would have been happy if they went out, like, two years ago.”

Valerie Steele, who included Kirkwood’s shoes in FIT’s Shoe Obsession exhibition and lauded him as one of the “emerging superstars of shoe design,” was skeptical. “There are a lot of people who have practiced very hard to wear their platforms, and who love the extra height it gives, so I think they’re going to remain an option,” she said. “And, of course, just because it’s swinging toward single sole now doesn’t mean that in eighteen months it won’t swing back.”

Photo: BFAnyc.com/Matteo Prandoni

Nicholas Kirkwood’s Over-The-Top Fall '13

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Nicolas Kirkwood has been pondering luxury materials of late. And his musings about fur, lace, and python resulted in a sumptuous and over-the-top Fall '13 collection. Take, for instance, his towering black ankle boots with Baroque embroidery, his open-toe heels garnished with tufts of purple fur, or the fin-like lace that grew out of some of his sky-high pumps. On the classic side, there were pearl-trimmed offerings, and some of Kirkwood’s details, like sharp zigzags, provided a graphic punch. “I really approach my collections by just doodling, and those lines evolve into shapes kind of organically,” explained the designer, adding that he enjoys exploring new techniques. “This was my second try at embroidery, and it was really fun.”

Speaking of fun new things, back in January, Kirkwood debuted his first men’s collection. The designer lifted some techniques from his women’s line for the range, like ticking out patterns in tiny gold studs or using black and blue zigzags to jazz up a classic brogue. The reaction to those models was so strong among Kirkwood’s female friends that he spun out some of them, like the Chelsea boots, for women, too.

Photo: Courtesy of Nicholas Kirkwood