72 posts tagged "Nicholas Kirkwood"
Two days before the opening of his New York store—his first on U.S. soil—Nicholas Kirkwood is talking by phone from the space, which, from the sound of it, is still very much a construction site. The 1,500-square-foot store, with its white, gray, and beige palette and minimal decor, will have, he says, “a charming feeling. It’s all very easy on the eye. It’s hopefully a relaxing kind of shopping experience.” Behind him, a very loud horn blares. “A boat?” he wonders with a laugh. (The Hudson River is a block away.)
If he isn’t able to relax just yet, it’s easy to believe relief is coming soon. Kirkwood is arguably the most exciting new footwear designer of the last few years, and his New York location is poised to be a major new outpost for his brand. The store is designed to emphasize space: “I like the idea of doing something else that you can kind of walk around and explore it,” he says. “It kind of has a gallery-esque feeling, without being quite as cold as a gallery.” (The reference is apt; the new, downtown site of the Whitney Museum will be just across the street when it opens. “That’s going to be absolutely fantastic,” he says.)
The store will sell the full Kirkwood collection, as well as a selection of collaborations with other designers, including Peter Pilotto, Erdem, and Paco Rabanne, at the opening; other collaborations, like the shoes he makes for Prabal Gurung, will eventually arrive. Just outside, and visible through the back windows, is a garden. “The luxury of having a garden in New York is quite special,” he says. For the opening, Cecilia Dean and Anne Christensen will host a private tea party; customer events will likely follow.
The store debuts with an opening party on Friday night, once every tile and display is in place. Is Kirkwood swinging a hammer himself, a reporter wonders? “I might do,” Kirkwood deadpans, “if they don’t hurry up.”
Nicholas Kirkwood opens Friday, May 4, at 807 Washington St., NYC, www.nicholaskirkwood.com.
It might have taken Woody Allen fans some real restraint not to yelp out something about Midnight in Paris when Nicholas Kirkwood was explaining his Fall collection a couple of days ago in his Marais showroom. But as he explains it, the magical era of Chanel and Cocteau was a logical next step from the romantic Pre-Raphaelite color of his pre-fall collection.
He used a white bouclé and surreal Art Deco mask graphics, while a wavy graphic motif that echoed marcelled curls was a more subtle reference. In general, there was a richer sense of romance, like pumps covered in a delicate vintage pale-mint brocade and decadent little mesh and black suede booties with a multicolored metallic floral embroidery (pictured, below). The latter looked like something Marie Antoinette might wear. Kirna Zabête’s Beth Buccini was trying on a pair during a sales appointment to the oohs and ahhs of everyone around her. Another marvel: Kirkwood’s new heel, a black lacquer and gold-trimmed Deco-esque cone with a bow at the top. From Paris to New York, the designer reports that his Washington Street store is now scheduled to open on March 21.
The Manolo moment has been in full effect these past few months, with the master designer’s signature pointy-toe pumps capturing editors and buyers alike. But Blahnik is no slave to trends and passing moments, and in recognition of that fact, he’ll receive the Lifetime Achievement Award at Footwear News‘ 25th annual FN Achievement Awards in New York tonight. Friend Carolina Herrera will present Blahnik with his award at the Museum of Modern Art. He takes the evening’s highest honor, but Blahnik is by no means the only winner tonight. Below, all of the 2011 FNAA honorees, including Nicholas Kirkwood, Burak Uyan, Rachel Zoe, Brian Atwood, and more.
Designer of the Year: Nicholas Kirkwood
Launches of the Year: Brian Atwood for B Brian Atwood; Rachel Zoe
Vivian Infantino Award for Emerging Talent: Burak Uyan
Company of the Year: Steve Madden
Retailer of the Year: Mindy Grossman, CEO, for HSN
Independent Retailer of the Year: Ron White
Brands of the Year: Vince Camuto; Angel Martinez and Connie Rishwain for Ugg Australia
Marketer of the Year: Adidas
Icon Award for Social Impact: Kenneth Cole
Lifetime Achievement Award: Manolo Blahnik
Hall of Fame: Patricia Field; Jim and Larry Tarica of Jimlar Corp.
The different looks in Nicholas Kirkwood’s Spring collection had light-years in between them, or at least the length of a showroom. At one end (displayed proudly in the window) were the madcap, slightly infantile flat-forms he made for Meadham Kirchhoff’s show with pompoms, beading, and metallic frills. On the other: a super-sleek pair of pointy black suede ankle-strap pumps, the kind of thing Carrie Bradshaw would have waxed poetic about in 1998.
The latter is, of course, new ground for Kirkwood, who’s been colonizing new territory every season, like Fall’s foray into (gasp) lower heels. As he pointed out, he’s never really done a pointy toe. But the major news for Spring was a far sweeter attitude. “I just wanted to do something more feminine,” said Kirkwood. Smart move. All the bright colors and floral motifs here track with the lady-fied direction this season, particularly from his fellow young Brits. Kirkwood’s version of feminine entailed flowers in a myriad of forms, including platform pumps covered in neon lace and a digital printed satin, sandals with an upper made of pen-and-ink rose scribble, and gorgeous bloodred strappy sandals topped with a single perfect faille rose.
Kirkwood’s next project is his New York store at 807 Washington Street, right across from the Whitney’s new building. Its opening has been delayed to March, but it will be a stiletto’s throw from Christian Louboutin’s Horatio Street boutique. Can we expect a Meatpacking District shoe-down?