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April 21 2014

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69 posts tagged "Nicholas Kirkwood"

Kirkwood Makes A Point

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The different looks in Nicholas Kirkwood’s Spring collection had light-years in between them, or at least the length of a showroom. At one end (displayed proudly in the window) were the madcap, slightly infantile flat-forms he made for Meadham Kirchhoff’s show with pompoms, beading, and metallic frills. On the other: a super-sleek pair of pointy black suede ankle-strap pumps, the kind of thing Carrie Bradshaw would have waxed poetic about in 1998.

The latter is, of course, new ground for Kirkwood, who’s been colonizing new territory every season, like Fall’s foray into (gasp) lower heels. As he pointed out, he’s never really done a pointy toe. But the major news for Spring was a far sweeter attitude. “I just wanted to do something more feminine,” said Kirkwood. Smart move. All the bright colors and floral motifs here track with the lady-fied direction this season, particularly from his fellow young Brits. Kirkwood’s version of feminine entailed flowers in a myriad of forms, including platform pumps covered in neon lace and a digital printed satin, sandals with an upper made of pen-and-ink rose scribble, and gorgeous bloodred strappy sandals topped with a single perfect faille rose.

Kirkwood’s next project is his New York store at 807 Washington Street, right across from the Whitney’s new building. Its opening has been delayed to March, but it will be a stiletto’s throw from Christian Louboutin’s Horatio Street boutique. Can we expect a Meatpacking District shoe-down?

Photos: Courtesy of Nicholas Kirkwood

Hitting The Tiles, Damage-Free, With Nicholas Kirkwood

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First, there was penicillin. Now this: a super yacht with the first floor
ever designed to accommodate guests in high heels. No more sinking your stilettos into a teak floor—this is invention at its most creative. And naturally, the yacht, named Big Fish, moored on the River Thames, was where Nicholas Kirkwood threw a party last night to preview his upcoming Resort collection.

Yours for only 26 million euros, or a mere $200,000 per week, the Big Fish was also where the Kirkwood faithful inaugurated the new floor to make sure it stuck to its promise. Stiletto-proof? Absolutely. Try as we may (both with dancing and shuffling around from the waves), no one could put a dent in that floor, not even with a pair of Kirkwood’s 5-inch stonkers.

The collection included some stand-up pieces: a gold, structured high heel and an orange and red snakeskin heel: “I think Freido Pinto would look amazing in these,” Kirkwood told Style.com. “This shoe really demands a nice brown skin tone and her coloring fits that bill.”

Kirkwood also revealed news certain to thrill his working girl fans: the launch of the mid heel. “The idea is to create a mid heel that has the same energy and excitement as our high heels,” he says. “We didn’t want to do it in a mumsy way—we are taking our time and making sure the 2-3-inch heel meets all of our standards, and yes, that you can wear for ten hours a day.”

Photo: Courtesy of Nicolas Kirkwood

Kirkwood’s U.S. Open, “The Patron Saint of Hipsters” Heads To Brooklyn, Cake Walking On The Runways in New Zealand, And More…

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Nicholas Kirkwood is setting up shop in the States. The British footwear designer will open his first U.S. store in New York on Washington Street early next year. [WWD]

Taavo Somer (left), the man behind Freemans restaurant, Freemans Sporting Club, and the Rusty Knot, opens his highly anticipated Brooklyn restaurant, Isa, next week. What should we expect from “one of downtown’s most imitated tastemakers of the last decade?” For one thing, no deer heads, that’s for sure. [NYT]

We have a few days until New York fashion week begins, but New Zealanders got a head start with their very own fashion week. Here’s something you don’t normally see at a runway show: Auckland-based label Huffer closed with a patriotically dressed model popping out of a cake. Sweet! [
Huffington Post]

Designer Catherine Malandrino has cancelled her New York fashion week presentation. Hurricane Irene is not to blame for this one-the designer’s rep says “the company is in a time of transition” and “we’ll be back in February.” [Page Six]

Lunching With Lulu

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“I was in a romantic mood this time around,” Lulu Kennedy reported at the star-studded lunch to celebrate the Fall collection from her supergroup-style label, Lulu & Co., at the very swank Harry’s Bar, a venue that’s light-years away from her gritty home turf in East London. Kennedy (pictured, right) is the founder of Fashion East, the legendary talent incubator that’s spawned the likes of Gareth Pugh, Jonathan Saunders, Richard Nicoll, and Roksanda Ilincic, and for her namesake label, she collaborates with her protegés and other young guns of interest. Her mood this year led her to include a few couples as collaborators, including artists Tim Noble and Sue Webster, besties Bella Freud (center) and Susie Bick, and photographer and art director Patrick Waugh and Alistair McLellan.

Kennedy and business partner Tania Fares (left) created Lulu & Co. last year to celebrate a decade of Fashion East, and it proved so popular they did it again. As last season, there’s a retrospective shine over the whole. “This year, it’s a mix of Fashion East past and present,” Kennedy said. “We have the couples who are new, but also the old—the journeymen of Fashion East like Jonny Saunders and Richard Nicoll. We worked hard at making the clothes more affordable and wearable.” (There’s a word not always top of mind for Kennedy’s kindred on their own runways.)

Charlotte Dellal, Mary McCartney (Stella’s photographer sister), Camilla Al Fayed, Sara Parker Bowles, Liberty Ross, and a clutch of designers including Roland Mouret, Erdem Moralioglu (below left), Roksanda Ilincic, Nicholas Kirkwood (below right), and Marios Schwab all stopped by to toast to the new. (Though Harry’s did make for a bit of culture clash—Henry Holland tweeted that he needed to get special dispensation to enter wearing his shorts.)

Of course, as more and more interest is directed at London’s new garde, there’ll be plenty more meet-ups of the gritty and the glamorous. England has just gotten a stylish new royal client of particularly high profile, and one wonders if she’ll be as receptive to young U.K. designers as her counterpart of sorts, Michelle Obama, has been to young Americans. “I think her McQueen wedding dress was beautiful, but I think now she should turn her eye to some other U.K. designers,” Kennedy said. “We are working on Resort now with Roksanda, and there is this gorgeous black and white draped number and I thought, wow, this dress needs an occasion and certainly [the Duchess of Cambridge] will have plenty of those. We will send her the lookbook, so fingers crossed. I mean, Mrs. Obama chose Roksanda, so here’s hoping that the Duchess will, too.”

Photo: Courtesy of Lulu & Co.

Nicholas Kirkwood Sets Up Shop On Mount Street

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“We felt that the time was right for the brand to open up a shop,” Nicolas Kirkwood said last night. So he did, and to judge by the crowd that flocked to London’s Mount Street for the opening, the world had been eagerly waiting. “We looked at a few places, but not that many because as soon as we saw this space we knew the search was over.” It doesn’t hurt that Mount Street could rightfully claim to be one of the planet’s chicest shopping streets: Marc Jacobs, Christian Louboutin, Lanvin, Azzaro, Balenciaga and Stephen Webster all call it home, and Stella McCartney and Matthew Williamson are kitty-corner on Bruton Street. The allure is made even more irresistible by the elegant, red brick, Queen Anne-style buildings; Kirkwood’s store itself is in a grade two listed building, which to the uninitiated, means it’s of historical interest.

The exhaustive laundry-list of attendees, on the other hand, is of contemporary interest: Freida Pinto, Roland Mouret, Katie Grand, models Tali Lennox and Sara Blomqvist, designers Roksanda Ilincic, Peter Pilotto, Messrs. Meadham and Kirchhoff, Charlotte Dellal, Julia Restoin-Roitfeld and boyfriend Robert Konjic, Nick Knight, Mary Charteris… All were oohing and aahing over the space’s spectacular refit, especially the mismatched wood floors designed by artist Richard Woods, which Kirkwood describes as “block-y, random, odd-shaped”—in a word, “very different.” Displays featured Kirkwood’s Keith Haring collection (made in collaboration with the late artist’s foundation), and a show-stopping pair of thigh-high, Swarovski-crystal-encrusted roller skates. “I don’t know if anyone would wear them,” says Kirkwood, “but we will custom make them if anyone wants them.” Also glittering in crystal: his first collection of jewelry, made in collaboration with Aterlier Swarovski.

Afterwards, many of the crowd decamped to 5 Pollen Street, one of London’s best kept secrets: a restaurant with a Michelin starred chef and walls covered in Gary Hume artwork and wallpaper. There, co-hosts Nadja Swarovski and Kirkwood held a private dinner, with the likes of Dinos and Tiphaine Chapman, Shaun Leane, Mat Colishaw and Francesca Versace. A Pilotto-clad Freida Pinto (left, with Kirkwood) was decked out for the occasion in cherry-red NK sandals from Spring ’11. “I’m working on two projects, Rise of the Apes and Immortals, and in town to do a photo shoot for Interview magazine,” the actress said. But she’d made time for her footwear designer of choice. “I’ve been a fan of Nicholas’ for a long time now, and I especially love the Keith Haring collection, so that’s why I am here!” And comfortable in her five-inch peeptoes? “Yes,” she replied, with no hesitation. “Amazingly so!”

Photo: Courtesy of Nicholas Kirkwood