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July 23 2014

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39 posts tagged "Nick Knight"

Louise Goldin Skips Show for SHOWStudio

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There seemed to be a palpable sense of confusion and then relief among editors who walked into Louise Goldin’s presentation at London’s St. Martins Lane Hotel to find just four sparse racks of clothes. Is that it? went the collective thought. On each hung the same six or seven pieces of minimal, body-con knitwear with sheer stripes—a long dress, a top pieced with jacquard, a T-shirt, a mini skirt, a maxi—in four different colors: red, camel, white and black.

Turns out this was just the first part of a two pronged attack. Goldin herself was making the rounds, a glass of champagne in hand. “I think its really important to say that I wanted to work on my business this season,” she explained. “This knitwear needs an incredible, incredible amount of manufacturing support, and there was no point in me dashing out shows that can’t be produced.”

Instead, Goldin is showing the collection a few weeks after Paris fashion week wraps up in an interactive film, naturally with SHOWStudio’s Nick Knight. For two days, the pair—along with a hair and makeup team—will have a supermodel in a studio and get about 80 different people who sign up to direct her movements and a few other variable elements. And all of it is done by Skype. “People can be involved in the process of a show,” said Goldin. “It’s inclusive—not just like, ‘Oh you can’t come to my show.’”

But as Goldin explained, the film has the potential to be more than simply a neat alternative to the classic runway format. She and Knight are exploring the idea of incorporating e-commerce where you can click on a film still and buy you’re seeing. But Goldin stressed that it’s still a work in progress. “I’m talking to my factory about it, to say, ‘What if we get 20,000 orders? Will you be able to make them?’” she said.

Hopefully Goldin’s new role as knitwear designer at the house of Versace will help to expedite her production. In the meantime, give her credit for thinking outside of the established system about how best to showcase herself and her work—a move that might just lead to those 20,000 orders in the end.

Photo: Nick Knight

Nick Knight Gets All Dolled Up

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“Dolls are everywhere in fashion. Even Galliano closed one of his shows with a three-foot doll of himself taking a bow in his place. How cool is that?” So says Nick Knight at last night’s private view of In Wolves’ Clothing: Re-Imagining the Doll at SHOWstudio’s Mayfair gallery and shop. “There is something fascinating, even slightly melancholy about dolls that has captivated the fashion world for ages—I think it comes from wanting to play dress up, but also from something deeper, like a pining away for our lost childhood.”

But betcha as a kid you never had any dolls like this. Knight’s selections are more likely to leave small children screaming in fear than cuddling up. Case in point, Nancy Fout’s disturbing canvases of vintage puppets crammed together, or Marina Bychkova’s dolls, faces straight out of Japanese anime, with huge, sorrowful eyes (left). Elaborately costumed and tattooed, they struck a gothic chord that, according to Knight, “takes art to a different level of emotion altogether.” Small surprise, then, that one of Bychkova’s dolls, Buela, graced the cover of the August issue of LOVE—wearing Louis Vuitton, no less.

Peter Jensen and Viktor & Rolf rounded out the offerings, with elaborately costumed dolls—couture, you might say, since they’re all custom pieces. They’re accordingly expensive, but Knight is in no rush to sell. “Everything that we have in the shop is something that I absolutely love,” he mused. “If they don’t sell right away, that’s all right. Means I can just look at them longer.”

Photo: Courtesy of SHOWStudio

Who’s Up For The British Fashion Awards,
Who Wants Klaus Kinski Front-Row,
Who’s Rethinking Khakis, And More…

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The British Fashion Award nominations are in! For designer of the year, Phoebe Philo (pictured) faces off with Christopher Kane and Erdem Moralioglu; for designer brand of the year, it’s Burberry and Mulberry vs. Pringle of Scotland and Victoria Beckham; and for menswear designer of the year, Christopher Bailey, Margaret Howell, Paul Smith, and the Savile Row label E. Tautz. Meanwhile, Nick Knight, Nicola Formichetti, and Rankin are all up for the Isabella Blow award for fashion creator—at least two of whom are Gaga besties. Now who will she root for? [WWD]

Richard Chai, who nabbed the CFDA Swarovski Award for emerging menswear designer last year, has announced he’ll debut his capsule collection for Original Penguin at his runway show this season. [WWD]

Steven Alan’s memories of Dockers center on “a 1970s math professor.” Let’s hope he chooses a different inspiration when he designs a few styles for the historic khaki producer. [NYT]

You probably aren’t washing your jeans as thoroughly and lovingly as Levi’s creative director Carl Chiara. But if you want to start, clear a few hours, a bathtub, and a sachet of potpourri, and follow these 14 or so simple directions. [WSJ]

For the latest issue of Interview, Balenciaga’s Nicolas Ghesquière sits down with legendary editor and style maven Polly Mellen, who’s full of great reminiscences about working in fashion in the era of Vreeland. Vreeland, the late Harper’s Bazaar and Vogue editrix, apparently had navy blue hair—chic! [Interview]

And Hint Mag puts several New York designers to the Mad Libs test. Read on to learn who wants Klaus Kinski in his front row, who wants the naked and blood-spattered cast of True Blood in his, and who aspires to “create a duplicate of himself, and then again and again until the entire world was Scott Sternbergs.” (One guess on that one.) [Hint Mag]

Photo: Courtesy of Celine

Who Is Jo Calderone?

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According to Internet speculation, he also goes by the name Lady Gaga. That’s certainly the easiest way to explain his never-before-seen presence on the cover of September’s Vogue Hommes Japan, shot by Gaga go-to Nick Knight and styled by her own stylist, Nicola Formichetti, who leaked a few preview images on his blog this morning. (In fairness, he’s also Vogue Hommes Japan’s fashion editor.) Whoever Calderone is, he/she gave an interview to Jo-Ann Furniss explaining his background (maybe):

How would you describe what you do/your occupation?
Mechanic for my dad’s business. This is the first time I’ve had my picture taken.

What are your ambitions?
I’d love to own my own car shop; I have a bunch of my own “muscle” cars. Maybe if I take some more pictures I can afford it.

What is your relationship to Lady Gaga?
I met her at a shoot Nick Knight was doing. She’s fuckin’ beautiful, and funny, and interesting. I was a little nervous for Nick to start shooting. She said, “Don’t be, baby, you were ‘born this way. ” I took her out after. The rest is private ; )

If he’s got anything to do with Lady G., it won’t be private for long.

Photo: Nick Knight/nicolaformichetti.blogspot.com

Heel-Less Shoes: A Brief History

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Though she takes an occasional tumble, Lady Gaga loves difficult footwear, like the heel-less boots she’s been wearing frequently of late. She pulled them on again for the September issue of Vanity Fair, where Nick Knight snapped her leaping midair in a pair of heel-less platforms by the young Japanese designer Noritaka Tatehana. But the Lady is only the most recent fan of the gravity-defying style, and Tatehana only the latest to take up the heel-free challenge. Below, recent snapshots from the annals of heel-less cobblers—and their famous fans, too.

Marc Jacobs’ “backwards” heels, Spring 2008.

Victoria Beckham wears Antonio Berardi’s thigh-high PVC heel-less boots to the launch of her fragrance in NYC, September 2008; the boots hit the runway in Berardi’s Fall 2008 show. Continue Reading “Heel-Less Shoes: A Brief History” »