6 posts tagged "Nicky Zimmermann"
“I don’t even get jet lag anymore,” said Nicky Zimmermann during a private tour of Zimmermann‘s new Soho flagship at 55 Mercer Street. The Australia-based brand has recently stepped up its Stateside presence and officially joined the New York fashion week calendar in September, which means the designer has been hopping on more twenty-hour-plus flights than ever. The 3,800-square-foot store, which will officially open with a party tonight, is replacing Zimmermann’s previous, smaller outpost up the block that opened about a year and a half ago. The contemporary label, known for its boldly feminine swimsuits and ready-to-wear, also maintains a boutique in Los Angeles and fifteen others Down Under. “We wanted a proper space that looked more like our stores in Australia. We like to keep the decor polished but still [maintain the] slightly raw feeling, so the more industrial elements like the floorboards, lights, and mirrored windows balance out the prettiness of the prints and color,” Zimmermann told Style.com during a walk-through. “It’s good for us to be able to fill out the picture of what Zimmermann is in the U.S. and be able to show the collections in their entirety.” One difference she’s noticed between shoppers in the Big Apple versus ones back home in Sydney or Paddington is that they’re willing to take more fashion risks. Zimmermann pointed out a frilly black maillot suit in the corner and said they’d already sold two of the editorial style over the weekend, so they had to display the last press sample on the mannequin. “New Yorkers are more likely to go for our detailed show pieces, and we like that there’s a market for more creativity here,” she said.
Nicky Zimmermann likes to have fun with fashion, and that’s just what she did with her Fall ’13 collection, which she’s titled Class of 2013. You might need to see the lookbook, which was cleverly bound like a high-school yearbook, to get the full effect, but the latest lineup definitely had a schoolgirl vibe. There were silk organza sweatshirts and “hockey” dresses with a pencil-drawn emblem print by artist Courtney Brims, as well as sharp leather backpacks for evening. As is usually the case with Zimmermann’s collections, Fall was all about the mix. For instance, shiny taffeta plaid shirts were paired with cropped brocade stovepipes, while frilly metallic lace bib tops were styled under drapey evening dresses, which, according to the designer, are prime for school dances or a twenty-first birthday party. Despite being known primarily for its bathing suits and flirty frocks, the Australian label turned out some noteworthy outerwear this season, including a shawl coat in shiny coated tweed and a cobalt vest-jacket hybrid.
Designer: Zimmermann by designer Nicky Zimmermann
Need to know: The Aussie label is known best for its popular bikinis, but ask any model from down under what that cute dress she’s wearing is, and chances are it’s Zimmermann. At a preview of the latest collection, designer Nicky Zimmermann (she started the line with her sister Simone in 1991) explained that Spring’s theme was “In Concert.” In keeping with that, the clothes had a raw, feminine energy to them—and definite rock star appeal. Mirror-finish holographic pieces and a Lurex gold tie-neck blouse paired with a matching flared skirt subtly channeled David Bowie (coincidentally, Ziggy Stardust was Zimmermann’s first concert and her daughter Bo’s nickname is Bowie). Meanwhile, you could imagine of-the-moment lookbook model Josephine Le Tutour performing next to Florence Welch, for example, in the strapless aubergine jumpsuit with built-in corset details (a carryover from the brand’s swimwear), shaggy knitted fur sweaters, and fringy crocheted skirts here.
She says: “Spring is all about harnessing the attitude of the people who can get up onstage and make the entire crowd feel like they can do anything,” Zimmermann told Style.com. “Ultimately, it’s what the girl brings to a lace dress that makes the look.”
Where to find it: Net-a-Porter.com, Barneys, and Neiman Marcus, among others. Zimmermann has recently been ramping up its presence in the U.S. and opened a standalone boutique on Mercer Street in April, as well as one in L.A. last year.
Friday brought news that Sydney’s fashion week is going to move up from its current slot in May to the end of March, which will align it more successfully with the international show calendar. Maybe there’s some kind of logic in that, but if fashion’s selling cycles, media cycles, and retail cycles are spinning in ever more byzantine circles of overlap, spare a sympathetic thought for Australia’s designers, who are now living through next winter while they just showed clothes for the spring after the one the Northern Hemisphere is currently enjoying (or, in London’s case, enduring). The challenge of rationalizing domestic and international markets has been eased somewhat by the unstoppable phenomenon of the pre-collection, which allows designers from both hemispheres to operate simultaneously, in a nebulous state of seasonlessness, but the calendar adjustment hones in on another challenge: how to market spring/summer while the rest of the industry is focusing on fall/winter. Or, to clarify the question posed by last week’s event (Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Australia, to give it its official nom de guerre): What is Sydney’s fit amongst the world’s fashion capitals?
And back comes the answer: Fit is the city’s fit. Sydney was basking in a freakish Indian summer. Beaches were crowded. The irresistible physicality of the city was in full effect, enhanced by the general glow of prosperity that comes with a boom economy. The designers who flourished on—and off—the MBFWA catwalks were the ones who bottled the glow, corralled the body beautiful. And they were simply the best not just because they made the most of Sydney’s physical assets, but because doing so takes a significant amount of technique. Nicky Zimmermann might start with a swimsuit, but she transmuted a tankini into an entire collection, with splatter prints, biker zips, and a corrugated metallic effect adding an edge to floaty, patchworked floral pieces. Lisa Ho’s specialty is the kind of sleek-lined, palazzo-panted eveningwear that is made to grace a Slim Aarons-like ideal of the languid good life. She’s gotten very good at it, effortlessly crossing over from Sydney socialites to Hollywood hot stuff like Jennifer Lopez, but, significantly, the further from the body she got with her latest collection, the less successful were the dresses. In Sydney, it is, after all, about the body, which golden boys Josh Goot and Dion Lee acknowledged with collections that started with a scuba second skin. Lee previewed some stunning pre-collection looks that were designed to evoke a sense of movement underwater, with thermal film adding a reflective shimmer to dresses bonded with neoprene and a shivering gill-like detail running down the side of skirts.
Continue Reading “Down Under, Sooner: Tim Blanks On Sydney’s Shifting Schedule Among The International Fashion Weeks” »
After planting her first stateside shop in L.A. last year, Australia-based designer Nicky Zimmermann decided the time is right to spread her roots to the other coast. “We’ve been looking for a space in New York since we had our [temporary] summer store on Greene Street the summer before last,” the designer, who is in town this week to debut her new shop, tells Style.com. “It’s taken us that long to find what we wanted.” After searching far and wide, she found a more permanent home for her ready-to-wear label, Zimmermann, in downtown New York. “The store on Mercer Street just feels like the right space for Zimmermann—it’s quite intimate but has these great high ceilings that gives the store some presence. I love it.”
The airy, 1,300-square-foot store, with its crisp white walls, maintains the same casual vibe that has come to be the brand’s signature. “We wanted the New York store to feel fresh and sexy, in a casual Australia sort of way. With all our stores we try to give them a common feeling of optimism while still allowing each space to have its own unique personality,” says Zimmermann.
The store is home to Zimmermann’s collection of ready-to-wear and swim items (like the best-selling Rebellion lace dress from Spring and the Devoted triangle-bra bikini), as well as a number of rash guards and bikinis (launching for summer) exclusive to the designer’s two U.S. shops. “We have these great rash guards that we have been working on recently and we’ve introduced some new bold color injections that will look great with summer skin later in the season,” she says. (Translation: New Yorkers might need a little time to catch up to that year-round Aussie tan.) Also coming soon: Zimmermann’s U.S. e-commerce shop, launching in late April, and a full children’s swimwear line. “We will introduce the complete collection of kid’s swim and resort, which everyone absolutely loves in Australia, and we think it will be really well received here,” she reports. She also hinted at another California location, or potentially Miami, as the site for the next Zimmermann retail outlet.
Zimmermann, 87 Mercer St., NYC.