49 posts tagged "Nicola Formichetti"
After two days of rumors following Nicola Formichetti’s departure from Mugler this week, WWD now confirms that the stylist has been named Diesel’s first artistic director. According to Diesel founder Renzo Rosso, Formichetti—who noted that he’s got a lot of “crazy ideas” for the label—will be responsible for a “total view” of the Diesel brand. His impact will first be seen in the Fall 2013 season. “I finally met somebody as crazy as I am,” Rosso told WWD. “I have replaced myself and can go on vacation.”
Mugler, which returned to the runway two years ago under the creative direction of mega-stylist Nicola Formichetti (above left, with designer Sébastien Peigné), will part ways with him, WWD reported today. The label called the creative director “a historical part of the Mugler legacy” and praised him as “the force that catapulted us forward”; no word from the man himself, who, according to the paper, is on vacation.
New York’s own Hood By Air bills itself as “ghetto goth.” That’s a niche market if we’ve ever seen one. But in spite (or perhaps because) of its cult appeal, HBA can certainly draw a crowd. Theophilus London, Nicola Formichetti, and his two Pomeranians, Tank and Bambi, were in the front row at the label’s Fall ’13 show at Milk Studios yesterday afternoon. The theme was techno-tribal-street-zombie—a concept that was magnified by performance artist Boy Child, who would sporadically interrupt the catwalking by creeping through a cloud of smoke and contorting his body into morbid positions.
Designer Shayne Oliver moved away from his usual all-black palette this season with splashes of yellow, blue, and X-ray green. “Before, I enjoyed black because I thought it looked the best,” Oliver told Style.com, “Now I’m learning how to express that darkness without actually doing black.” This collection is also markedly more complex than what we’ve seen on the racks in previous seasons. Sweatshirts are done in oversize neoprene to distort the body, Bermudas are slit open and worn over skinny pants, and zippers transform one garment into something else entirely, like a pair of loose shorts into a kilt. It’s an aesthetic that really appealed to A$AP Rocky, whom Oliver enlisted to close the show. “Growing up in Harlem, hanging out in Soho, I had to deal with the transition between different worlds. Shayne’s stuff is totally something I can get with.” Thanks to A$AP, HBA’s niche might soon get a little bit bigger—Oliver will be dressing the rapper as he opens for Rihanna on her world tour this spring.
Mugler creative director Nicola Formichetti can multitask with the best of them. In 2012, the designer styled Lady Gaga, launched his Nicopanda streetwear line and guest edited an issue of Dazed & Confused . Somehow, on top of all that, he still found time to conceive six collections for Mugler and launch the brand’s first collection of luxury handbags.
Ranging from $1,050 to $18,000, the thirty new Spring ’13 purse styles boast Formichetti’s sculptural, futuristic aesthetic. Structured top-handle satchels in a variety of leathers and exotic skins, like patent crocodile and rubber alligator, come with silver hardware accents shaped like talons, while evening clutches have a “weaponlike” appeal. The boxy Agent bag (left)—which, along with the rest of the collection, will be available in Barneys New York, Opening Ceremony, and other select stores from February—has already made rounds on the celebrity circuit, having been spotted on the arms of Kim Kardashian and Gwen Stefani. Naturally, Formichetti is keeping up the pace in 2013. Later this month, Mugler will present their pre-fall collection and unveil a whole new batch of accessories.
It is 4 a.m. and Nicola Formichetti is having a jet-lagged morning run around the Shinjuku district of Tokyo—at the same time as being interviewed on the phone. “It is very Blade Runner here and I’m running,” he confirms, when asked why he is mysteriously panting. This is the normal sort of schedule the stylist faces these days. The day before, Formichetti had been filmed alongside the Japanese actress Kiko Mizuhara, the face of Uniqlo’s womenswear, for the brand’s latest TV commercial. It appears that Formichetti is now the face of the menswear in Japan, as well as being Uniqlo’s creative fashion director. “It will really mean a lot to my mum and my grandma,” he explains of this particular string to his bow. “In Japan everybody wears Uniqlo, from tiny babies to the elderly. It is really like nothing else and has a response like nothing else.”
Such is the place that Nicola Formichetti now occupies in the fashion industry. The half Italian, half Japanese stylist—although that is a very limiting description of what he does—could have almost been grown in a lab to be the first test-tube baby of “global fashion now.” He helms a major brand (Mugler), directs the fashion choices of a major star (Lady Gaga), and is the founder, alongside his brother, of his own brand, Nicopanda (left), whose e-commerce Web site is set to launch November 19. Yet now he is going back to his roots, by being the guest editor of a special issue of Dazed and Confused—the U.K. magazine where he made his name—called “Fantasia.” It is an issue to celebrate all things Asian—including Nicola himself. Continue Reading “Nicola Formichetti: Asia And Fantasia” »