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July 25 2014

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68 posts tagged "Nicolas Ghesquiere"

Coven Is “Inspired” At Fashion Rio

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Though the debate in the fashion world about the negative impact of copycats continues unabated, taking direct “inspiration” from another creator isn’t necessarily always held against a designer. The latter was the case at Fashion Rio (which is underway this week in Rio de Janeiro) for Coven, a knitwear-heavy label with a fiercely modern but street-friendly aesthetic. The first looks out of the gate—futuristic, body-con separates—owed an obvious debt to Nicolas Ghesquière. A group of Hervé Léger-esque bandage dresses were interspersed with a flurry of fluffy, crystal-encrusted sweaters (like the one pictured here), which seemed to pay homage to Sonia Rykiel. It might sound like an overload of references, but the reality was that Coven designer Liliane Rebehy Queiroz managed to own most of the ideas and inject them into her particular stylistic vocabulary. In emerging fashion markets, a common criticism can sometimes center on a lack of original creativity, but in the case of Coven, it doesn’t apply. Rebehy Queiroz is just finding a way to synthesize the influences that surround her into something unique, which, in my opinion, is a perfectly valid creative approach in contemporary times.

Photo: Marcio Madeira

paris fashion week: balenciaga’s resident aliens

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Balenciaga pulled off the stealth fashion party of the week on Tuesday night with an under-the-radar gathering at Le Baron. On the stroke of midnight, the diminutive boîte suddenly swelled with in-crowd guests such as Natalia Vodianova (in an ice-blue draped number) and husband Justin Portman, Zoë Kravitz, Purple‘s Olivier Zahm, Julia Restoin-Roitfeld, Pierre Hardy, Michael Roberts, Hamish Bowles, and club co-founder André Saraiva—who is not only an artist and nightclub impresario but also a newly minted designer himself. Vodianova, whose sole Paris appearance was for Balenciaga, rhapsodized over Nicolas Ghesquière’s collection in a very literary way: “Nicolas always creates the perfect mix between aliens and female beauty,” she said. “They were exciting, cosmic clothes. They reminded me of the Tolstoy novel Aelita, about two guys who travel to Mars and discover aliens—and there’s a love story. It’s very Nicolas, I have to send it to him!”

Photo: SGP

vintage fashion in paris

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Don’t call the Galerie Renaissance, a vintage shop; owner Corrine Than-Trong prefers to consider herself an antique dealer. Whatever the terminology, her gallery on Paris’ Left Bank is a favorite address among couture connoisseurs for its trove of fashion show jewelry creations, accessories, and couture numbers sourced from private collections around the world. On Thursday evening, a number of clients packed into the tiny space to admire Les Strass du Vintage, a temporary exhibition of star pieces including a YSL couture suit, a Chanel haute couture dress dating back to Mademoiselle’s era, and a Lanvin cocktail dress. The star of the show, a long Balenciaga evening gown (pictured), was preemptively acquired by Nicolas Ghesquière for the house archives (for an undisclosed sum) and loaned for the exhibition. While everything here is for sale, Than-Trong doesn’t like to discuss prices, but one-off runway jewelry signed Thierry Mugler, Schiaparelli, or Christian Dior is comparatively accessible, with prices starting around 250 euros (about $364); dresses by Lanvin or Patou tend to reach into the lower four digits; and real-deal leopard jackets can run up to five (best not to travel through customs with those, however). Les Strass du Vintage will be up through October 30.

And if you’re in Paris this weekend and crave an extra shot of vintage shopping, the espace Pierre Cardin in the eighth is hosting Les Années Orange, a show devoted to “contemporary” vintage fashion, furniture, and accessories (dating from the sixties on)—all of which is for sale.

Photo: Courtesy of Galerie Renaissance