42 posts tagged "Nicolas Ghesquiere"
Prabal Gurung Takes The Reins At ICB, Designers At Midlife, Spring (Campaigns) Are In The Air, And More…
The Japanese label ICB, formerly designed by Michael Kors and then Victor & Rolf, stopped distribution in the West in 2002, but it will soon be back on these shores. Owning company Onward Kashiyama has announced that Prabal Gurung will helm the relaunch of the collection in U.S. and Europe, beginning here in Fall 2012. [WWD]
In 2011, designers of major labels, including Haider Ackermann, Christopher Bailey, and Nicolas Ghesquière, hit milestone “big O” birthdays (they all turned 40). In the NYT, Suzy Menkes points out that the battle of generations of designers of all ages, however, is a thing to celebrate. [NYT]
The Spring campaigns are upon us! Fashionologie rounds up the best of what’s out now, featuring star turns from Karlie Kloss, Alessandra Ambrosio, Miranda Kerr, and Julia Stegner. [Fashionologie]
Julia Restoin-Roitfeld designed her own collection of lingerie for Kiki de Montparnasse—and pregnancy or no pregnancy, she’s gonna model it, too. [Elle]
Before striking out on her own, Bouchra Jarrar was behind the scenes for the rise of Balenciaga’s ready-to-wear as well as the twilight of Christian Lacroix’s couture. When she launched her own label in 2009, she opted to show her collections during Paris’ Haute Couture week, in testament to the couture-style approach she favors. But she’s always been part of the ready-to-wear world, too: Her line is stocked at enviable retailers like Ikram, Jeffrey, Bergdorf Goodman, and Kirna Zabête. Now, thanks to that growing international presence—and one very visible credit, on the cover of French Elle—Jarrar is keeping her slot on the couture calendar, but adding a version of her namesake show to the RTW week, too, with a handful of new pieces and a bag thrown in for good measure. Style.com checked in with Jarrar at her new atelier and boutique to discuss the old and the new, what she learned under Nicolas Ghesquière, and the eternal allure of the little black dress.
Tell me about seeing your dress on the cover of Elle. Was it a defining moment for you?
I did not know that was going to happen. At all. It was a tremendous moment for me. I felt it was real encouragement. Fashion is hard work. Creation doesn’t just fall from the sky. And it was really powerful to see the magazine place a bet on the future. But it’s not like you’ve arrived; the bar is constantly placed higher, and you have to reach it. Anyway, we got a lot of calls about that dress. Funnily enough, we did not sell any in Paris—we sold a lot in the U.S.
Will it become a recurring piece in your collections?
Yes, but in any case I don’t kill off my collections. We’re a small house, so we leave the door open in case a client wants it. For us, this “new couture” approach is very of the moment.
That’s interesting. So many designers today are going the opposite direction, promoting branding and mass distribution—more, more, more. You’re harkening back to an older model.
I feel at home with the notion of being a fifties-style couturier, who likes to work with the fabric and sew in general, enjoys the process of thinking through “one fashion.” We function like a couture house; half of what I do is artisanal and that implies lots of time. In that sense I feel like I am swimming against the current. But that’s also reassuring because I feel like I am working with profound respect for women. It’s not about power, prestige, or money. The idea of taking a magnificent name, filling it with fast fashion, and calling it luxury says nothing to me. Personally, my definition of success centers on the human aspect. Continue Reading “A “New Couture” Approach, From A Designer Perched Between Ready-To-Wear And Haute” »
Balenciaga’s Nicolas Ghesquière enlisted an all-star cast to put together his Resort 2012 video, debuting exclusively here on Style.com (above). In the Steven Meisel-directed film, which Ghesquière has left open to interpretation, catch the likes of models Jamie Bochert, Miranda Kerr, and Milou (made up by none other than Pat McGrath) power-walking past each other in voluminous skirts, cocoon coats, and the Balenciaga must-have accessory of the season: the visor.
Visit www.balenciaga.com to view the full video.
A new chapter in Pringle of Scotland‘s near-two-century saga opens with the appointment of Alistair Carr as design director. He follows in the footsteps of Clare Waight Keller, who took the company’s signature knitwear places you barely knew it could go. But if anyone can fill Waight Keller’s quietly iconoclastic boots, it could well be Carr, who is coming off four years as head of show collections under Nicolas Ghesquière at Balenciaga.
There can be few better places in fashion to master the radical re-contextualizing of tradition than Balenciaga. And that, according to Carr, is exactly what is expected of him at Pringle. His own history would seem to equip the 36-year-old for the task. He was turned on to fashion by his grandfather, who was a couturier in Gretna Green, the tiny Scottish town where eloping Brits were free to marry. Then, after some post-college years of don’t-hem-me-in idiosyncrasy, when Carr lived on a bus as a dreadlocked crusty, he subjected himself to the sink-or-swim character building that only Professor Louise Wilson’s legendary M.A. course at Central Saint Martins could provide. Finally, following stints at Marni, Cacharel, and Chloé, came the precision and discipline of Ghesquière’s finishing school.
“I am a perfectionist about finish,” says Carr, “but I also want ease of movement in clothes.” His first opportunity to apply his principles to Pringle will be the men’s collection, just around the corner in June. If you’re looking for a point of difference with the past, Carr says to expect something more streamlined, less archive-oriented. He is, however, staying in tune with Waight Keller in his commitment to continuing Pringle’s collaborations with contemporary artists. He also insists the Queen can rest assured that she’ll still be able to find her favorite cashmere twinsets.