April 17 2014

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53 posts tagged "Nicolas Ghesquiere"

Balenciaga Brights


Balenciaga‘s Nicolas Ghesquière found himself inspired by the late-seventies and early-eighties France for his latest pre-fall collection. He updated the looks with animal-print patchwork and silk and added sharp tailoring to the blazers and trenches. Here, in this new short film by Steven Meisel, styled by Marie-Amélie Sauvé and art directed by House and Holme, catch the looks in action. The video can also be viewed on

Photo: Courtesy of Balenciaga

Prabal Gurung Takes The Reins At ICB, Designers At Midlife, Spring (Campaigns) Are In The Air, And More…


The Japanese label ICB, formerly designed by Michael Kors and then Victor & Rolf, stopped distribution in the West in 2002, but it will soon be back on these shores. Owning company Onward Kashiyama has announced that Prabal Gurung will helm the relaunch of the collection in U.S. and Europe, beginning here in Fall 2012. [WWD]

In 2011, designers of major labels, including Haider Ackermann, Christopher Bailey, and Nicolas Ghesquière, hit milestone “big O” birthdays (they all turned 40). In the NYT, Suzy Menkes points out that the battle of generations of designers of all ages, however, is a thing to celebrate. [NYT]

The Spring campaigns are upon us! Fashionologie rounds up the best of what’s out now, featuring star turns from Karlie Kloss, Alessandra Ambrosio, Miranda Kerr, and Julia Stegner. [Fashionologie]

Julia Restoin-Roitfeld designed her own collection of lingerie for Kiki de Montparnasse—and pregnancy or no pregnancy, she’s gonna model it, too. [Elle]

Photo: Courtesy Photo

A “New Couture” Approach, From A Designer Perched Between Ready-To-Wear And Haute


Before striking out on her own, Bouchra Jarrar was behind the scenes for the rise of Balenciaga’s ready-to-wear as well as the twilight of Christian Lacroix’s couture. When she launched her own label in 2009, she opted to show her collections during Paris’ Haute Couture week, in testament to the couture-style approach she favors. But she’s always been part of the ready-to-wear world, too: Her line is stocked at enviable retailers like Ikram, Jeffrey, Bergdorf Goodman, and Kirna Zabête. Now, thanks to that growing international presence—and one very visible credit, on the cover of French Elle—Jarrar is keeping her slot on the couture calendar, but adding a version of her namesake show to the RTW week, too, with a handful of new pieces and a bag thrown in for good measure. checked in with Jarrar at her new atelier and boutique to discuss the old and the new, what she learned under Nicolas Ghesquière, and the eternal allure of the little black dress.

Tell me about seeing your dress on the cover of Elle. Was it a defining moment for you?
I did not know that was going to happen. At all. It was a tremendous moment for me. I felt it was real encouragement. Fashion is hard work. Creation doesn’t just fall from the sky. And it was really powerful to see the magazine place a bet on the future. But it’s not like you’ve arrived; the bar is constantly placed higher, and you have to reach it. Anyway, we got a lot of calls about that dress. Funnily enough, we did not sell any in Paris—we sold a lot in the U.S.

Will it become a recurring piece in your collections?
Yes, but in any case I don’t kill off my collections. We’re a small house, so we leave the door open in case a client wants it. For us, this “new couture” approach is very of the moment.

That’s interesting. So many designers today are going the opposite direction, promoting branding and mass distribution—more, more, more. You’re harkening back to an older model.
I feel at home with the notion of being a fifties-style couturier, who likes to work with the fabric and sew in general, enjoys the process of thinking through “one fashion.” We function like a couture house; half of what I do is artisanal and that implies lots of time. In that sense I feel like I am swimming against the current. But that’s also reassuring because I feel like I am working with profound respect for women. It’s not about power, prestige, or money. The idea of taking a magnificent name, filling it with fast fashion, and calling it luxury says nothing to me. Personally, my definition of success centers on the human aspect. Continue Reading “A “New Couture” Approach, From A Designer Perched Between Ready-To-Wear And Haute” »

At Balenciaga, A Standing-Room-Only Crowd


Balenciaga gave its showgoers something to tweet about even before its models hit the catwalk today. “Benches cracking at Balenciaga as guests leap up. A second one just carted off. Now a third broke and nervous buzz starts, as in ‘Me next?’ ” said @CathyHorynNYT. The Traina sisters reportedly jumped when they heard the first crack, others found themselves flat on the floor after the benches, supporting the likes of Mario Testino, Catherine Deneuve, Carine Roitfeld, and’s Nicole Phelps, broke. So, it turned into a standing-room-only show. “All standing like in a church!” tweeted @AnnaDelloRusso. And the reactions were appropriately reverent. At a different show, the audience might’ve gotten restless, but here the disciples liked what they saw in the boxy coats and killer angular heels. “Amazing Balenciaga show by Nicolas Ghesquière!” added ADR afterward. The crowd was already on their feet to give M. Ghesquière what amounted to a standing ovation when he came out to take a bow.

Photo: Monica Feudi /

Cruising In Bold Balenciaga


Balenciaga’s Nicolas Ghesquière enlisted an all-star cast to put together his Resort 2012 video, debuting exclusively here on (above). In the Steven Meisel-directed film, which Ghesquière has left open to interpretation, catch the likes of models Jamie Bochert, Miranda Kerr, and Milou (made up by none other than Pat McGrath) power-walking past each other in voluminous skirts, cocoon coats, and the Balenciaga must-have accessory of the season: the visor.

Visit to view the full video.