44 posts tagged "Nicolas Ghesquiere"
Over the course of a century in a print, Women’s Wear Daily has had given a ton to the designers it covers. And for its centennial celebration, those designers are giving back—and doing a turn for charity, no less. Starting tomorrow at 11:59 p.m., the WWD@100 Auction launches online, featuring exclusive, one-of-a-kind items sold to benefit the good cause of each house’s choosing. Got a free wall in your apartment? Try John Galliano’s 10′-wide mural (top), inspired by his Fall ’10 Dior couture collection (approx. value $15,000, benefitting the Carla Bruni-Sarkozy Foundation). Worn out that Motorcycle bag? There’s Nicolas Ghesquière’s re-imagined “Papier” in hand-painted python (above left, approx. value $2,761.70—sticklers for precision over at Balenciaga!—benefitting AMFAR). And if you’ve got an occasion, there are dresses, coats, and bags from Armani, Burberry, Calvin, Dolce, Donna, Lanvin (above right) and many, many more. The only downside? The virtual gavel won’t fall in time to wear your newly-gotten gains to the paper’s gala celebration tomorrow night.
The online auction takes place at www.charitybuzz.com/wwd from 11:59 p.m. on November 2 through November 18.
Noticed at the shows: the return of fringe. Apropos of a seventies-inflected season, designers—especially those showing in Paris—covered dresses, accessories, and jewelry with dangling wisps, often in evening-friendly black. At Chanel (top left and center), Karl Lagerfeld hung feathers off hair clips and showed collarbone-skimming fringed earrings with tufted dresses. At Louis Vuitton (top right), Marc Jacobs kept his earrings ultra-long, too. At Balenciaga (bottom right), Nicolas Ghesquière covered tough sandals to the ankle with hairlike strands, and for Sacai (bottom center), Chitose Abe ornamented Louboutins with feathered straps. At Rick Owens (bottom left), the trend went in a different direction—literally. Instead of hanging down, his fringe tufted up, at the tips of floral accents on spring wedges.
Two days into the Paris shows, the spirit of ’77 is in the air. It’s never blared more clearly than at Balmain (and the soundtrack, by the way, was Sid Vicious’ famous cover of Sinatra’s “My Way”). Christophe Decarnin has long borrowed punk culture’s tropes, but the affect here was full-on mosh pit: tattered fishnets, ragged cutoffs, moto jackets and vests festooned with safety pins and band buttons (above). You could’ve been waiting on line for a Johnny Thunders show—a very expensive one.
At Balenciaga, Nicolas Ghesquière seemed to be marching to the beat, too. He also showed motorcycle jackets like the punkers used to wear, though his weren’t in shreds. But the piece-y crop tops his models sported looked like the DIY haircuts you used to see administered in the bathroom at rock shows, and the iridescent, thick-soled flats (above) looked a little like the Creepers those girls used to wear. (Shoes, by the way, that have also influenced footwear in seasons past at Proenza Schouler and Alexander Wang.)
Face piercings, too, have been popping up on the runway, not only in Europe but in New York, too. Alexander Wang sent models out with septum rings at his austere, mostly-white show (above left). Charlotte Ronson put her girls in nose and lip rings for a nineties grunge-girl look (above center). And at Hakaan yesterday, every model wore a simulated bridge piercing, high on the nose—what the kids call an Earl (above right).
Balenciaga has revamped its Paris flagship. At the newly redone Avenue George V store, you’ll find more of Ghesquière’s (left) covetable collection, an ornate banister borrowed from the Balenciaga archives, and an enormous starburst clock—just don’t try to tell time by it, as it runs backwards. “Back to the future,” CEO Isabelle Guichot explains. [WWD]
Fashionista checked in with a psychic for NYFW predictions. What was in her crystal ball? Jewels at Marc, a solo reality show for Michael Kors, and good tidings for Jeffrey Monteiro at Bill Blass. Time will tell! (Except at Balenciaga in Paris, where it runs backwards.) [Fashionista]
Acne has launched a small capsule collection aimed at transvestites. Would it be wrong to say “fabulous”? [Vogue U.K.]
And Barneys’ Simon Doonan is leaving the New York Observer after ten years to pen a column for the online political mag Slate. [Fashionologie]
Who’s Up For The British Fashion Awards,
Who Wants Klaus Kinski Front-Row,
Who’s Rethinking Khakis, And More…
The British Fashion Award nominations are in! For designer of the year, Phoebe Philo (pictured) faces off with Christopher Kane and Erdem Moralioglu; for designer brand of the year, it’s Burberry and Mulberry vs. Pringle of Scotland and Victoria Beckham; and for menswear designer of the year, Christopher Bailey, Margaret Howell, Paul Smith, and the Savile Row label E. Tautz. Meanwhile, Nick Knight, Nicola Formichetti, and Rankin are all up for the Isabella Blow award for fashion creator—at least two of whom are Gaga besties. Now who will she root for? [WWD]
Richard Chai, who nabbed the CFDA Swarovski Award for emerging menswear designer last year, has announced he’ll debut his capsule collection for Original Penguin at his runway show this season. [WWD]
Steven Alan’s memories of Dockers center on “a 1970s math professor.” Let’s hope he chooses a different inspiration when he designs a few styles for the historic khaki producer. [NYT]
You probably aren’t washing your jeans as thoroughly and lovingly as Levi’s creative director Carl Chiara. But if you want to start, clear a few hours, a bathtub, and a sachet of potpourri, and follow these 14 or so simple directions. [WSJ]
For the latest issue of Interview, Balenciaga’s Nicolas Ghesquière sits down with legendary editor and style maven Polly Mellen, who’s full of great reminiscences about working in fashion in the era of Vreeland. Vreeland, the late Harper’s Bazaar and Vogue editrix, apparently had navy blue hair—chic! [Interview]
And Hint Mag puts several New York designers to the Mad Libs test. Read on to learn who wants Klaus Kinski in his front row, who wants the naked and blood-spattered cast of True Blood in his, and who aspires to “create a duplicate of himself, and then again and again until the entire world was Scott Sternbergs.” (One guess on that one.) [Hint Mag]