53 posts tagged "Nina Ricci"
Nothing adds a royal touch quite like velvet, and we’ve noticed plenty of it in the recent pre-fall, Haute Couture, and even menswear collections. At Alexander McQueen, Sarah Burton whipped up an ecclesiastical draped robe in cardinal red, while Stella McCartney, Rochas’ Marco Zanini, and Peter Copping at Nina Ricci were among the designers who incorporated the fabric into eveningwear. Christopher Kane, for his part, took the material in a more casual direction with a cool biker jacket. Velvet is getting play in the real world, too. Jessica Alba turned up to the Dior Haute Couture show this week wearing a sumptuous black topcoat, while Joséphine de la Baume gave off a witchy vibe in a crushed-velvet number at the Amy Winehouse Foundation Ball.
CLICK FOR A SLIDESHOW of our favorite velvet looks.
In recent seasons, some of our favorite designers—like Proenza Schouler, 3.1 Phillip Lim, Nina Ricci, and Balmain—have played with denim. Their latest collections prove that the fabric can be used for much more than ordinary jeans. In fact, it’s often the unexpected denim pieces that add character to your wardrobe. From dresses to accessories, shop our picks from Isabel Marant, Louis Vuitton, Derek Lam, and more.
1. Derek Lam dress, $890, available at www.stylebop.com
2. Proenza Schouler vest, $395, available at www.saksfifthavenue.com
3. MiH jeans, $235, available at www.netaporter.com
4. Louis Vuitton scarf, $550, available at www.louisvuitton.com
5. Isabel Marant sneakers, $640, available at www.lagarconne.com
To view more looks, click here.
Front-row fashion-watchers tend to be in one season, out the next, but one woman is a fixture: Suzy Menkes. Anyone who’s been to a show has likely seen the International Herald Tribune‘s critic, her bangs flipped into that signature top-roll, typing away on her mini computer (long before any blogger picked up on the trend, it should be noted). She’s written over 1.7 million words for the Trib, where she’s served as fashion editor since 1988. She’s both a tough critic and a nurturing presence—or, to put it more bluntly, as Kate Moss did when speaking to the New Yorker, she’s “like a slightly mad auntie.” During the upcoming menswear shows at Pitti Uomo, Menkes will be awarded the Fiorino d’Oro, an honor given by the Municipality of Florence to individuals who have greatly contributed to social and cultural development. For anyone in need of a primer on Menkesism, a few key moments in her rise and illustrious career:
—Menkes attended her fist couture show—Nina Ricci—while living in Paris and studying dressmaking during her gap year between high school and university.
—While at university, Menkes would sneak into the Paris show venues at 5 a.m. and hide under the stage until she could creep out and watch the collections walk down the runway.
—In 1991, during a Michael Kors show in an apparently derelict loft, a piece of the ceiling fell on Ms. Menkes’ head. The mishap caused her to deem New York fashion week “second rate.” But there was a silver lining—the incident caused New York’s designers to show their future collections in a single, less dilapidated, location—Bryant Park.
—In the nineties, Menkes prompted what was, perhaps, one of fashion journalism’s earliest open letters when she declared that the classic quilted Chanel bag was “over.” The house took out a full-page ad in the Tribune in protest.
—In 2007, perturbed by Marc Jacobs’ infamously tardy Spring 2008 show (it began two hours late), and unimpressed with his collection, Menkes wrote a review titled “Marc Jacobs Disappoints With a Freak Show.” Naturally, a fashion feud ensued. Jacobs eventually attempted to make amends by leaving a Marc Jacobs T-shirt on Menkes’ seat at that season’s Vuitton show. The shirt featured a drawing of the designer and critic side by side, as well as a “love note.” The note she may have appreciated; the gift, maybe not. She famously refuses all gifts, saying, “I was brought up to believe a girl should never accept anything but flowers and chocolates.”
—In 2012, Menkes reached her latest pinnacle: animation. Disney artists created a cartoon Suzy to sit front-row for the festivities surrounding the Barneys New York and Disney holiday windows.
Good news for fans of the Peter Copping-designed Nina Ricci label. Following the success of its first “Les Envies” collection, now selling briskly in stores and on Net-a-Porter, the French brand was showing off its next delivery here in New York yesterday. The capsule offering features wardrobe must-haves, hence the name, and sells for about 30 percent less than the runway pieces. “I wanted ‘Les Envies’ to feel easier and younger than the main line, yet still have the Ricci spirit,” Copping said via e-mail from Paris. “For the construction and attention to detail, the approach is the same as any other collection, although the final pieces remain simpler.” Simpler is a relative term chez Ricci. Little sweaters are backed with printed silk, coats come in teddy bear faux fur, and, of course, there’s still plenty of lace. Copping continued, “It opens us up to a broader clientele, which for me is extremely positive. But, to maintain our place as a luxury brand, I think it will be necessary to elevate part of the show collection—making it even more special.” See what we mean about good news?
Dusting off granny’s tweeds is a rite of passage, but the bold bouclés we saw on the Spring runways may have girls skipping those closet raids in favor of scooping up something new. Karl Lagerfeld has been reinventing Coco Chanel’s signature fabric since he took over the house in 1983. This season, he showed Technicolor tweed ripe for the pretty young things who flock to his front rows (not to mention the recent string of international celebrations for the house’s Little Black Jacket exhibition). At Nina Ricci, Peter Copping gave the material a holographic treatment, whipping it up into ladylike skirtsuits. A new guard of designers embraced traditional tweed, too, and what stood out was the way they draped and manipulated the stuff—as if they were working with soft silk or crepe instead of nubby wool. New York-based up-and-comer Brandon Sun created a casual racerback column gown with a slim peplum and slouchy pockets, while Carven’s Guillaume Henry incorporated flirty cutouts into his woven frocks.
CLICK FOR A SLIDESHOW of Spring’s standout railroad stripes.