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August 27 2014

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4 posts tagged "Number (N)ine"

From Anime to Zen, Tokyo Fashion Week Had It All

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Tokyo Fashion Week

Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Tokyo closed on Saturday, just as the cherry blossoms were starting to paint the town pink. The fashion found on Tokyo’s Fall ’14 runways seemed more “Japanese avant-garde” than ever, but perhaps not in the way one might think. While the Japanese in Paris tend to be severe and dark, the inclinations of Tokyo’s catwalks lean more to the kawaii street movements that come with bright colors and catchy hooks of POP. Issey Miyake-backed brand Né-net (above, left) showed apron dresses splashed with cute, big-eyed manga girls and coquettish eyeball motifs. Thai brand Sretsis (above, right) arguably did kawaii better than the Japanese, and turned out signature flowery baby-doll dresses. The label is a staple on the streets of Harajuku. Mikio Sakabe pushed his fringe “pop-otaku” (anime geek) aesthetic to the extreme by casting only male models for his feminine collection. The cult of otaku is flirting with fashion more than ever before.

Tokyo Fashion Week

Another area in which Tokyo excels is menswear. Factotum is just a few eccentric details shy of being the next (N)umber (N)ine, and designer Koji Udo’s sleek pajama-party collection is already a hit among the city’s top buyers. On the other end of the spectrum is 99%IS (above, left). Now in its sophomore season, the label is already a fan favorite of streetwear aficionados. The house collaborated with Mackintosh on a number of rubberized motorcycle jackets, which climaxed in postapocalyptic cacophony when teamed with black plaster masks and aggressive studding.

One of the strongest shows was by local sportswear brand Onitsuka Tiger, which teamed up with Italian designer Andrea Pompilio for its first ready-to-wear collection. In a palette of black, white, and orange, it was racer-inspired but filled out with tailored suits that reflected the modern Tokyo man to a T.

If this is causing sensory overload, clean your palette with Dressedundressed (above, right), whose study on precise minimalism would make nineties-era Calvin Klein cry with jealousy. The Fall ’14 collection was inspired by Zen rock gardens. The lineup’s soft lines brought the week some cool harmony.

Photos: Courtesy Photos

The Soloist Tries Its First Duet

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To rehearse an old line: Designer Takahiro Miyashita marches to the beat of his own drum. (Asked once about the inspiration for one of his collections, the Sphinxlike Miyashita said, “I don’t know—ask my brain.”) He was the genius behind the much-loved, much-missed menswear line Number (N)ine, which he shuttered in 2009. He returned the following year with a new, unisex label called, appropriately enough, The Soloist. The Soloist has remained a cult item, available sparingly outside of Japan and priced in the contemporary-art range. (New York’s IF is one of the rare U.S. stockists.) But this season, The Soloist has a new collaborator: Oliver Peoples. Miyashita worked with Peoples creative director Larry Leight on two styles—a round ($425) and a teardrop aviator ($455–520)—inspired by the frames of the twenties and thirties and in many cases, using stock parts from vintage pieces. (Where deadstock parts were not available, new ones were created on original tools for a similar effect.) The unisex frames come in optical and sunglass models; they’ll hit Oliver Peoples stores for Resort this month, and continue to roll out at department stores and boutiques through the spring.

Photo: Courtesy of Oliver Peoples

Number (N)ine’s Takahiro Miyashita Returns

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When Number (N)ine designer Takahiro Miyashita suddenly shuttered his critically beloved, occasionally gonzo line after Fall 2009, fans of his avant-garde menswear were bereft. Good news for them, then: After a little time off the radar, Miyashita is back with a new line, The Soloist, which he debuted in Tokyo’s tony Azabu district last week.

He’s emerged playing a more serene song than before. While his former label offered collections often inspired by rock ‘n’ roll, The Soloist is quieter, in cut and color. Eschewing concepts and themes, Miyashita describes this unisex range as clothes he wants to wear—right down to the sizing, which is based on his own ultra-slim figure. (That’s him in the new collection, pictured.)

The first collection, “Symphony 0001″ for Fall ’10, began with a jacket, constructed with more than five sewing machines and as many different fabrics. There’s almost a couture feel to the ragged edges, which are created by hand-ripping the fabrics after they’re sewn. The pieces get only more complex from there: There are shirts with removable vest overlays and hand-sewn snaps, hybrid jodhpur trousers with fake plackets, customizable tees and tanks trailing ribbon details.

“It’s really about me…My lifestyle and my spirit are the key elements,” the designer explained simply. (He’s a man of few words.) But his iconoclastic spirit is evident in the unisex styling and his timing—he’s showing Fall ’10 now, while most of his fellow designers are showing Spring ’11. That spirit will also dictate the form of the collections to come: He hopes to refresh them 12 times a year rather than on the usual Fall/Spring schedule. But there will be no more radical changes from season to season, just tweaks and evolutions of the essentials: “Designing a piece and then abandoning it makes me feel sorry for it; it’s a waste.”

Photo: Hiroyasu Masaki

Rie Rages, Tommy Forgives, And More…

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From the Department of We’re Staying Out Of It: Model Rie Rasmussen apparently took Terry Richardson to task in Paris for exploiting models. [Page Six]

Details are finally emerging about the notorious Tommy Hilfiger/Axl Rose brawl of 2006. (We know—you’ve been on the edge of your seat ever since!) Apparently Axl pushed Tommy, Tommy called him rude, and a punch or two was thrown. Don’t worry, they’re bros again. Phew. [Vogue U.K.]

The weird/wonderful Japanese menswear line Number (N)ine is sadly shuttered, but its last collaboration, a range of sneakers with Converse, hits stores this weekend (pictured). Get ‘em while you can. [Cool Hunting via Racked]

Fashion favorite (and Balenciaga campaign star) Charlotte Gainsbourg is taking her show on the road. First stop: Coachella, California’s outdoor music fest. [Pitchfork via Hint Mag]

We usually try not to get too invested in the goings and comings in Barbie Land, but you may like to know that the girl’s got a friend, Darren, on the scene. The guy’s got connections: Jay-Z personally selected his outfit from Rocawear’s collections. [Nylon]

Photo: coolhunting.com