16 posts tagged "Olivier Rousteing"
“It was heaven,” said Balmain’s Olivier Rousteing of shooting with Rihanna. The pop star is the face of the house’s Spring ’14 campaign, two images of which debut exclusively here. But Rousteing, who spoke to Style.com from Paris this morning, insists the ads weren’t the result of a PR push or a marketing strategy—rather, they were the product of he and Riri’s budding friendship. “I met her six months ago, when she came to the studio during her Diamonds Tour, and I just loved her,” the designer recalls. “She invited me to her concert, and I invited her to my show, and she started to become a good friend of mine. Obviously, we text all the time, and at one point, when I was working on the Spring collection, I told her she was the inspiration and that I wanted her in the campaign. It all started like that.”
Styled by Rihanna’s own stylist Mel Ottenberg and lensed by Inez & Vinoodh, the ads, which will hit magazines in January, were apparently shot to the tunes of Prince. “We listened to it super loud, and she was dancing in the clothes—but she really owned them. She tweaked everything. She chose what she wanted to wear, she had a great vision, and that’s what I love about her,” Rousteing said, stressing that he feels Rihanna is the ultimate icon for this generation. “I wanted the campaign to be about Balmain, but I didn’t just want a model—I wanted a strong, real woman in the clothes. For me, Rihanna is a power. And she pushes boundaries on everything.
“Sometimes,” Rousteing added, “fashion is all about a big machine. And we forget about emotions, and realness, and dreams. But dreams do come true, and this came from something really simple, and easygoing, and real.”
So what’s Rousteing’s favorite Riri song? “I have to be honest. I love the new one, “Monster,” but I think “Stay” is one of the best songs ever. I fell in love listening to this song. And that’s something I’ll always remember.”
In the streets and on Tommy Ton’s pages in the latest issue of Style.com/Print, jeans are more dressed-down than ever—shredded, distressed, and faded to a fare-thee-well. But it was a different story on the Spring runways, where polished denim ruled. At his Louis Vuitton swan song, Marc Jacobs gave dungarees a couture twist with jet-beaded pockets. Olivier Rousteing upped the ante at Balmain, trussing soft, faded chambray with major metal chains. And Joseph Altuzarra sent out tailored pieces featuring indigo prints in the style of Japan’s elaborate “boro” patchworks. Dark-rinse denim was also in the spotlight at Acne Studios, Versace, and Derek Lam. Even the Valentino designers got in on the act, whipping up a ball skirt (actually, full-leg culottes) from the stuff.
Gingham typically stirs up feelings of nostalgia, but lately designers are doing their part to modernize the classic checks. Derek Lam opened his Spring show with eight crisply tailored, crosshatched looks; Delpozo creative director Josep Font paired the graphic pattern with cheerful sunflowers; and Olivier Rousteing put his signature glam spin on the trend at Balmain with plaid bomber jackets and kicky skirts accompanied by chunky chain jewelry. As seen on the 3.1 Phillip Lim and Mark McNairy New Amsterdam menswear runways, buffalo-plaid pieces have been earning style points with the guys, too. Meanwhile, model off duty Marine Deleeuw looked like Lolita incarnate in her sweet pink-and-white shirtdress, and we spotted plenty of gingham items from Prada’s cinematic Fall ’13 collection in the streets. As Isaac Mizrahi told Style.com a few years ago at a Resort presentation, “Gingham is like a solid with a lot of personality.” Agreed.
The Spring ’14 collections are under way in Paris, and before their new clothes hit the runway, we’ve asked some of the most anticipated names to offer a sneak peek. Per usual, it’s a busy time for all—designers and fashion followers alike—so we’re continuing our split-second previews: tweet-length previews at 140 characters or less. Our entire selection of Spring ’14 previews is available here.
WHO: Balmain, designed by Olivier Rousteing
WHEN: Thursday, September 26
WHAT: “I mixed American sportswear tailoring with Parisian graphic couture styling for a collection with a masculine/feminine duality.”— Olivier Rousteing. The designer sent us a Spring ’14 detail shot, above.
In the fall of 2007—long before backstage was a thing and the flash of a camera was as ubiquitous behind the scenes as it is on the runway—German photographer Anna Bauer received an assignment from The Daily and road-tripped her way from London to Milan to Paris, shooting models, stylists, and a host of other fashion types along the way. She used a large-format Polaroid camera and captured the industry’s central figures in spontaneous form—flagging down designers such as Raf Simons and models like Kate Moss (above) and Raquel Zimmermann (below) during quiet moments and approaching them with boldness, trepidation, and sometimes total naiveté. “When I shot David Sims, I didn’t know who he was,” she recalled at the launch of her book, Backstage, last February. The results are eye-catching—a collection of raw, oft-revealing black-and-white portraits of the people who make the shows run.
This Thursday, Bauer will show the Polaroids—many of which first debuted in Backstage—en masse for the first time at the Loewe store in Madrid. “It’s a selection of about eighty,” said Bauer of the images, which include stills of everyone from Alber Elbaz to Iris Apfel to Juergen Teller. “I’m really happy because the show is going to give them another life,” she added. The earliest Polaroids on view were taken when the project began in 2007 (a young Agyness Deyn, a sunglasses-clad Karl Lagerfeld), while the most recent, Olivier Rousteing’s, for instance (“He doesn’t know he’s in there, because I didn’t know how to get in touch with him!” exclaimed Bauer), were taken just over a year ago.
Bauer said she has thought about shooting another group of people, like musicians or athletes (“just another extreme kind of group,” she mused) in the same style. But, she reasoned, “It could never be like this. I think that’s part of the interesting thing about the project—the condensed nature of the industry. We all go to the same four fashion weeks and the amount of people is limited. It’s a very close-knit circle of people.”
Anna Bauer’s Polaroids will be on view from September 5 to November 3 at the Loewe store, located at Calle Serrano, 26, Madrid, Spain.