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April 20 2014

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14 posts tagged "Olivier Saillard"

Sculpting Fashion: Olivier Saillard Talks Alaïa at the Musée Galliera

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Azzedine Alaia by Patrick DemarchelierFor the past four years, Paris’ famed Musée Galliera has been closed for renovations. This week, the historic fashion museum reopens with Alaïa—the first Parisian retrospective dedicated to Azzedine Alaïa’s work. “For me, Alaïa was the obvious choice—he stands alone,” offered the Galliera’s director, Olivier Saillard, who has curated the museum’s roving shows since 2010. (The 2011 Madame Grès show—hosted by the Musée Bourdelle—as well as Tilda Swinton’s mesmerizing Spring ’13 performance, The Impossible Wardrobe, were both Saillard’s work.) Here, in an exclusive preview, the curator speaks to Style.com about bringing a “new-old” museum back to life, what sets Alaïa apart, and how Swinton has inspired him to take up sewing.

How did your vision for the Musée Galliera take shape?
It was a funny situation because I was named the museum’s director after it closed for renovations, so I started doing outside shows. In my mind, the “new-old” Galliera—I call it that because we’ve restored it to its nineteenth-century appearance—really began to take shape with the 2011 Madame Grès exhibit at the Musée Bourdelle. We did it on a shoestring budget. You could say that Madame Grès changed my idea of what the Galliera should be. Ever since then, I’ve been convinced that an exhibition’s power comes solely from how you see the clothes. When you look at a dress by Alaïa, you don’t need anything else.

How did you approach Alaïa about the exhibition?
I first mentioned it to him years ago. Two years later, he invited me to dinner. I don’t really remember when he said yes, because he never says no, even if that’s what he means. Then, a year ago, he put his collection on hold because this exhibition was coming up. I’ve never met another designer who would do that. What’s interesting about Alaïa is that he takes the time to understand and see things. He approaches his clothes like a sculptor or an architect or a writer, and he often says, “I make clothes; women make fashion.” Continue Reading “Sculpting Fashion: Olivier Saillard Talks Alaïa at the Musée Galliera” »

A 280-Heel Salute to Roger Vivier

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Vintage Vivier boots

Count on Paris fashion week to end on a high note with a retrospective exhibition dedicated to the inventor of the stiletto heel: Roger Vivier. Set to open at the Palais de Tokyo on October 2, the show, dubbed Virgule, etc… in the Footsteps of Roger Vivier , will give viewers the chance to examine a comprehensive range of the late designer’s fancy footwork. Curated by the Musée Galliera’s Olivier Saillard, the exhibit will display 140 pairs of Vivier shoes—including his famous comma heel (or virgule in French, hence the title).

Vivier, who was once Dior’s star shoemaker, died in 1997, but his legacy lives on. Diego Della Valle revived the brand in 2000, and Bruno Frisoni has been creating dreamy, feminine wares for the house since 2002. His work, too, will be celebrated in the show.

Photo: Keystone-France/ Getty Images

Haute History: Paris Celebrates Couture’s Legacy

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It’s ready-to-wear time, but the fashion set will fete made-to-measure clothes tonight when Paris Haute Couture opens at the Hôtel de Ville. The Swarovski-sponsored exhibition showcases one hundred pieces from the Musée Galliera’s archives and a few loans from private collections. According to curator Olivier Saillard, the Galliera’s director, it tells a chronological story, starting with Charles Frederick Worth at the turn of the century (the show’s first dress was owned by the Comtesse Greffulhe, who inspired Marcel Proust’s Duchesse de Guermantes) and ending with one of the final pieces Cristóbal Balenciaga made before he shuttered his couture business in 1968.

Many of the dresses are juxtaposed with contemporary pieces; “For me, haute couture is not a discipline slave to the present,” Saillard explained. A Galliano-designed Dior, for example, is matched with Paul Poiret, while a 1920s Chanel is paired with a dress from Bouchra Jarrar’s latest couture collection. Saillard has affection for every piece in the show, but he’s partial to the 1930s. “The thirties is the most elegant period. There were a lot of women designers: Vionnet, Chanel, Schiaparelli—that means something,” he said. “They didn’t see back to the past, they see only the future.” As for couture’s future, Saillard says it’s not dead. “There are a lot of designers interested in haute couture: Raf Simons at Dior; Comme des Garçons is doing another kind of couture; Nicolas Ghesquière was, for me, a good designer who could make haute couture.”

Paris Haute Couture is free to the public from March 2 through July 6, at the Hôtel de Ville.

Photo: Courtesy of the Musée Galliera

Two Centuries Of Fashion History, Starring Tilda Swinton

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Christian Lacroix, Haider Ackermann, Martine Sitbon, Bruno Frisoni. They all gathered at the Palais de Tokyo last night for a one-of-a-kind, one-woman fashion show: The Impossible Wardrobe, conceived and curated by the Musée Galliera’s Olivier Saillard and starring none other than Tilda Swinton. The performance lasted nearly 40 minutes, or about four times the normal length of a fashion show. No one minded. On the contrary, the crowd gave the duo a standing ovation.

Wearing white gloves, a lab coat, and beige suede pumps, Swinton variously carried, clutched, and presented vintage clothes and accessories up and down the runway, making eye contact with the audience along the way and pausing in front of a mirror to measure up how she might look if she was allowed to put them on. “It’s not possible to wear the clothes in a museum,” Saillard said, by way of explaining the show’s concept and name. “If Tilda hadn’t accepted our proposal, we wouldn’t have done it.” Above Swinton, a news ticker spelled put the pieces’ provenance, and there were some truly special items here: a 1968 Paco Rabanne dress worn by Brigitte Bardot, Elsa Schiaparelli-designed gloves with built-in gold talons from 1936, an embroidered top that belonged to Isadora Duncan in the 1920s, even a tailcoat covered in gold bullion worn by Napoleon. The Oscar winner actually sniffed the collar on that one, as if to get a sense of his essence. “C’est sublime,” said Bouchra Jarrar afterward. “A new way to talk about the history of fashion. One must never forget history.” In the history of this season, this will rank as one of its most fabulous moments.

CLICK HERE for a slideshow of Swinton wearing some of the pieces from the Musée Galliera collection >


Photo: Piero Biasion

Mickey Drexler Is Everywhere At The J.Crew Headquarters, Three Finnish Designers Win Top Honors At The Hyères Festival, Fern Mallis Gets the Pratt Lifetime Achievement Award, And More…

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At J.Crew’s office, out of sight isn’t out of mind. CEO Mickey Drexler installed a P.A. system to share thoughts, insights, and occasionally, Bruce Springsteen tracks with the entire staff—even when he’s not around. “”He…checks in from holiday,” Jenna Lyons tells the Observer. “He’s like: ‘Hey, I’m in Saint-Tropez; it’s gorgeous here! Anyway, I’m having lunch at Club 55 and you should see all these people wearing white! We should do more white, it’s summer, do we have enough white?’ It’s hilarious—I love it.” [Observer]

Finnish design trio Siiri Raasakka, Tiia Siren, and Elina Laitinen have been awarded the L’Oréal Professional Jury Grand Prix for the 27th Hyères Festival at the Villa Noailles. The young designers, chosen by a jury that included Yohji Yamamoto, Olivier Saillard, and more, will receive a €15,000 grant and a chance to show their collections during Spring 2013 Paris fashion week. [Paris Vogue]

Former CFDA executive director and senior vice president of IMG Fashion Fern Mallis has been honored with the Pratt Institute’s Fashion Industry Lifetime Achievement Award. The award was presented to the fashion veteran last week by Calvin Klein, who described her as a “referee” to designers. [WWD]

The U.K. may have found its next top model. Harper Beckham, daughter of Victoria and David, may be only 9 months old, but she’s already got her first offer in hand. Personalized baby gift company My1stYears.com has sent an open letter addressed to Harper herself requesting her modeling services. [Telegraph]

 

 

 

Photo: Ina Jang