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56 posts tagged "Olivier Zahm"

Reed Krakoff Visits Paris, Hopes To Stay

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Reed Krakoff and his French wife Delphine love Paris. “I visit as often as I can,” he says. “I travel for inspiration because it’s my job, but even if I wasn’t working, I’d still be traveling.” He mentioned wanting to open a permanent Paris store one day. In the meantime, the designer (left, with Virginie Mouzat) and his brand’s new president, Valérie Hermann, created a showroom on three levels of the Galerie Karsten Greve in the Marais to introduce Parisians to his new collection. “I’ve kind of done everything in reverse,” Krakoff muses. “After 25 years designing for others, I really wanted to do my own thing and use all my experience to do it well.” Among those there to take it in: Sarah Lerfel, who buys Krakoff for Colette; Olympia Le-Tan and her illustrator papa Pierre Le-Tan, who has done projects for Krakoff at Coach; jewelry designer Harumi Klossowski, Balthus’ daughter; Comme des Garçons’ Adrian Joffe; fashion publishers Olivier Zahm of Purple and Ezra Petronio from Self Service; and Alexis Mabille, who didn’t let the fact of his impending haute couture show keep him away.

Photo: Courtesy of Reed Krakoff

Postcard From Venice: Laure Heriard Dubreuil Reports From The Biennale

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The Webster co-founder Laure Heriard Dubreuil and her boyfriend, artist Aaron Young, hit Venice this week for the legendary Biennale di Venezia. For those farther than a vaporetto away from the action, she’s sending back updates on the sights and the sounds (and a few parties, too).

Today, Aaron and I went to the opening at the Palazzo Grassi, the art-filled manse owned by the Pinault family. I met Shala Monroque in front of Joana Vasconcelos’ sculpture Contamination, a patchwork sprawl of brightly colored forms that invades every nook and cranny of the Palazzo (above). Contamination is huge, and it’s growing—Vasconcelos uses materials she either makes or finds, and she adds new elements each time she installs it. It really spreads like a virus, taking over the whole Palazzo. She makes a strong case for so-called “female” crafts like sewing, knitting, and crocheting being valid means of artistic expression—not just artisan craftwork.

Later, I stopped in at the shop of my favorite Venetian jewelry designer, Antonia Miletto, who is doing little cocktail parties every day to offer some festival relief. Couldn’t resist trying a few pieces on. I loved her thick chain ring in sterling silver with a tiny peridot (left), as well as diamond-encrusted bracelets in yellow gold and skull pendants in gold and sapphire—very Venetian.

After dinner with friends—where I discovered a new (but very old in Venice) drink, the Sgroppino, vodka with Prosecco and lemon sorbet!—we headed to the Maurizio Cattelan party for his magazine, Toilet Paper, at the military fortress San Sereolo. Everybody was wondering if Maurizio is going to continue working after his joke that he’d quit—but it doesn’t seem to be true. He installed a series of sculptures called Tourists all around the city—they’re pigeons, just like the real ones that wander all through Venice (below). Continue Reading “Postcard From Venice: Laure Heriard Dubreuil Reports From The Biennale” »

Olivier Zahm Shares The Secret Of Photographing Women

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For anyone who’s taken even the most cursory glance at an issue of Purple or Olivier Zahm’s Purple Diary, the title of his new show, The Secrets of Photographing Women, should come as very little surprise. But the secret is that, actually, there is no secret. “I guess the interesting thing is the book is all about the secret, but there really is no secret,” Zahm said at the opening at Los Angeles’ LeadApron Gallery last night.”It’s that all women are a secret that we try to understand.”

If understanding is the goal, few have done their homework more thoroughly than Zahm. The photos on display are culled from the work that he shoots everywhere from hotel rooms to parties to on the street. “Something is happening between the photographer and the model,” he explained of the intimate images, a combination of friends, lovers, and women who have come and gone from his life. “You can call it an emotion or an interaction, and it doesn’t have to be sexual. But I create an emotional contact with the women I photograph so she can express something very deep about herself.”

Though he is constantly showcasing his work on Purple Diary, the small-scale exhibit—and the Los Angeles locale—is new. “It’s difficult for me because I have to be my own critic,” Zahm explained. “Decide if this is a picture that has the potential to be artistic.” What about, say, the potential to be fashionable? “These pictures are not constructed,” he went on. “They are very rarely a fashion picture. It’s more of a moment with a model for me. I don’t want it to look like I am shooting a model. Even if there is fashion photography in the shoot, it’s always personal and intimate and a moment of abstraction.”

The Secrets of Photographing Women runs through June 12 at LeadApron Gallery, 8445 Melrose Place, L.A., www.leadapron.net.

Tory Mulls Menswear, Karl’s Ice Kream To Come Here, Carine’s On The Bestseller List (Already), And More…

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Tory Burch—whose business, we thought, couldn’t get much bigger—is mulling a new venture: menswear. Burch mentioned the possibility at a recent talk at New York’s French Institute, where she also revealed a menswear line would be modeled on the wardrobe of her father. [WWD]

U.S., get ready for Magnum Ice Cream, the European treat that recently made waves when it hired Karl Lagerfeld and Rachel Bilson (left) to create ads and short films for it. The Wall Street Journal reports that the stuff’s coming to the U.S. market—as are the Lagerfeld-directed films, which will debut during the Tribeca Film Festival. (Turns out the Kaiser can elevate even ice cream ads to the level of cinema.) [WSJ]

Carine Roitfeld’s Olivier Zahm-edited autobiography, Irreverent, isn’t even out until October, but it’s already up for preorder on Amazon.com—and holding the no. 2 spot among their fashion titles, no less. It’s yours for $67. [Racked]

And if you, like us, don’t read Portuguese, you might’ve missed this—but our eagle-eyed, São Paulo-born market editor didn’t. Apparently Stella McCartney is doing another collaboration, with Brazilian retailer C&A. Just another reason to hit the next Carnival. [RG]

Photo: Courtesy of Magnum

An Assortment Of Books You Can Judge By Their Covers

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Just how does a girl secure the services of one of the hottest filmmakers on the planet? “Well, I was a bit cheeky,” admits Olympia Le-Tan. “I met Spike Jonze two summers ago through friends when I first started making my bags. When he called and asked if he could order some, I said yes—if he’d do a film for me.” It took the busy Jonze a few years to keep his promise, but the short, which features a skeleton with a knife stuck through its ribs and a sultry creature (who bears a more-than-passing resemblance to Le-Tan) cavorting in and out of the pages of her embroidered book bags, screened last night at her Fall presentation.

Given her literary aesthetic, what better venue could Le-Tan have chosen than Paris’ legendary Shakespeare & Company bookstore? Pals like Sarah Lerfel, Olivier Zahm, Vincent Darré, and John C. Reilly (in town shooting Roman Polanski’s Carnage with Kate Winslet and Jodie Foster) crowded into Shakespeare’s twisting aisles to inspect the designer’s faux books (and a few of the shop’s real ones, no doubt). This season’s collection, Housewives’ Choice, was inspired by midcentury ladies’ reading materials: not only classic novels about women, like Anna Karenina and Madame Bovary, but cookbooks, romance novels, and milk cartons, too.

” ‘Housewives’ Choice’ was a BBC radio program in the fifties,” Le-Tan explained, “and it’s also one of my favorite reggae songs, so there’s a double meaning.” A little old, a little new—much like the collection itself. “It’s a mix between the fifties housewife and the modern-day woman,” she went on. “I don’t have a husband and I’m working, but I am nostalgic about the days when women used to make a real effort to look nice and take care of their husbands, their house, and the kitchen.” She looked nice in a printed hourglass dress, and to underline the point, wore a crisp white apron tied around her waist.