132 posts tagged "Opening Ceremony"
Hyundai may be best known as a South Korean car manufacturer, but it also dabbles in fashion through a division called Handsome. During the Paris collections, Handsome jumped into the City of Light’s shopping scene by opening a Marais outpost of Tom Greyhound, its multibrand concept store. (Check out the Seoul outpost here.)
Tom Greyhound. The name sounds like a cartoon character, and the store’s not-so-vaguely Batman-esque design reinforces that impression. One spin through the racks, however, and everything snaps into focus. A savvy mix of emerging and international talent—including Rag & Bone, Peter Pilotto, 3.1 Phillip Lim, J.W. Anderson, Christopher Kane, Thakoon, Opening Ceremony, and A.F. Vandevorst, among others—comes arranged by theme, not by brand, and the cozy, loft-style layout is sure to please men and women trying to track down labels that, until now, have been hard to find in Paris.
Tom Greyhound is located at 19 Rue de Saintonge, Paris, 75003.
The foursome behind the new label Vetements, which means “clothes” in French, first met at Maison Martin Margiela. After a time, they all dispersed, but the backstory goes a long way toward explaining why, now that they’ve formed a collective, not one wishes to be identified by name. What we can say, however, is that it’s an international crowd with cred—they’re Austrian, Belgian, Ex-Soviet Union, and French, and they’ve done time at Balenciaga and Céline.
Regrouping has been “kind of like a high school reunion,” one of the designers said the other day. “But what we really want to do is just make clothes that are timeless, personal, and nice to have. It’s more a collection of ideas.”
The kind of woman Vetements is talking to is urban, but she’s into pushing it with not-too-basic wares such as vintage 501s reworked as a skirt with uneven, raw hems; boxy jackets in heavy biker leather; and conceptual pieces like garment bag shearling coats and sleeveless vests (these come with a separate set of sleeves). “Brutalist” basics cover a lot of ground, from T-shirts and sweaters to trenchcoats. These are offered in seasonal colors of charcoal, navy, taupe, bordeaux, and black, and the range is brightened by the occasional flash of aluminum nylon. Judging by the retailer response (and the clothes, of course), this wearable compilation of ideas is full of good ones—Opening Ceremony, Joyce Hong Kong, and Maxfield in L.A. have already picked up the brand’s debut collection.
“It’s not topical, we’re not talking themes,” the designer noted. “We’re talking pieces that work on their own and play off each other.” We’ll be keeping an eye out for what this mysterious quartet does next.
The new collection by London-based designer Martine Rose, which debuts exclusively here, will hit Opening Ceremony this week. Though Rose is technically a menswear designer, the Opening Ceremony honchos decided to treat the line as unisex when they picked it up for their stores. And indeed, Rose’s ruffled jackets and roughed-up denim have an appeal that’s pretty genderless: Witness this shoot by Rose’s longtime friend Tyrone Lebon of his girlfriend, Adwoa Aboah, kicking around in some of the looks that will be on the racks at OC. For her part, Rose has a particular angle on the whole androgyny thing. “I wasn’t interested in androgyny as such,” Rose explained. “I was thinking about men throughout history who have broken the conventional gender rules of clothing, men with an overt sexual energy who used feminine looks to underline their masculinity.” Specifically, Rose added, her muse this season was Rick James. And as for Lebon and Aboah’s gender-bending? It turns out, Rose is plenty used to seeing Aboah in her clothes. “Well,” she says, “she walked in my very first catwalk show…”
Google’s not the only company that can play the tech-meets-fashion game. Last night at the Consumer Electronics Show in Las Vegas, Intel’s CEO Brian Krzanich announced the corporation’s new plan to produce functional tech accessories that are both wearable and aesthetically pleasing. Impossible? Not when you have Opening Ceremony’s Humberto Leon and Carol Lim on your team. The duo will design a smart bracelet, which, currently under development, will be unveiled at a yet-to-be-revealed date.
But one bracelet does not a revolution make, so in addition to OC, Intel has tapped Barneys (who will sell the forthcoming wristband and future products) and the CFDA (who will help emerging designers get on Intel’s wearable gadget bandwagon) to assist with the project.
Earlier today, Ayse Ildeniz, Intel’s VP of Business Development and Strategy of New Devices, hosted a panel to discuss the push. She was joined by OC’s Bettina Chin (Director of Special Projects) and Su Barber (Art Director), the CFDA’s Adam Roth (Director of Strategic Partnerships), and Barneys’ Matthew Woolsey (SVP of Digital). The takeaway from their chat? While functionality is key, the products have got to look great (if you recall, one of the biggest complaints about Google Glass, pairs of which were worn on Diane von Furstenberg’s Spring ’13 runway, was that it wasn’t exactly the sleekest thing on the block). “If wearables are to take off, it has to be an industry effort, and fashion and aesthetics have to be involved,” Ildeniz told Style.com after the panel. Woolsey concurred. “The design element is paramount to the way in which our customer engages with [the product],” he said. It’s worth noting that, through this project, Barneys will become the first luxury retailer to carry wearables.
So can Leon and Lim do for wearable tech what they did for Kenzo—that is to say, make it the cool set’s new must-have? Unfortunately, some blizzard-induced flight delays prevented Lim from attending the conference and addressing that in person. However, with a little help from a smartphone, Style.com was able to catch up with Lim about why OC and Intel are a natural fit, how she plans to make wearable tech covetable, and how her collaborative device will not only allow people to plug in, but offer them the option to turn off.
Why did you and Humberto say yes to the Intel project?
Technology in all forms has been really important to us, not only in our store and our collections, but also in terms of online retail. We had been watching the wearable technology space for quite some time before Intel approached us. We’d been thinking about how to incorporate [wearables] into our collection, so when this project came along, we thought it was a great opportunity. Intel represents such a strong force in technology, so we were happy to lend our design sensibility, and it makes sense to partner with someone whom we consider to be the expert.
Do you feel confident that the end result will resonate with the Opening Ceremony customer?
Absolutely. If you look at how people operate today, they use so many devices and applications. I think [wearable technology] is the next step in terms of how people interact. Your phone’s generally by your side, but you don’t always get a chance to look at it, so I think this product is a natural progression.
As far as stereotypes go, “fashion” people and “tech” people are about as opposite as you can get. How do you hope to bridge this perceived gap? And considering you design for Kenzo as well as Opening Ceremony, do you see wearable tech translating into luxury fashion?
When Intel approached us, they basically said, “We’re experts in technology, and we would rely on you to be experts in the field of creating an item that can stand on its own—an item that is beautiful, and that people will want.” I think that marriage of two partners with different talents is going to be very interesting. And you’re right, the fashion industry has been slow to adopt wearable technology. But I think that’s because it’s usually coming only from a technology point of view, rather than a combination of tech and design aesthetic. Our focus will be to create a covetable item that someone would want to wear regardless of the tech aspect. So I think this collaboration with Intel will stand out from other devices. Continue Reading “Fashion and Function: Opening Ceremony’s Carol Lim Talks Teaming Up With Intel” »