138 posts tagged "Opening Ceremony"
Everyone’s go-to shop for graphic sweatshirts, quirky snapbacks, and killer accessories is getting a major financial boost. WWD reports that Berkshire Partners has recently taken a minority stake in Opening Ceremony. The Boston-based equity firm plans to enhance e-commerce, further develop ready-to-wear, add more locations, and introduce new stores to exclusively sell the Opening Ceremony label. “Since starting Opening Ceremony, Humberto [Leon] and I have worked together to create a company with a strong point of view that offers our customers a fresh shopping experience in our stores, collections, and website,” designer Carol Lim said. “Our growth over the years has been organic, but also strategic, and the relationship with Berkshire provides Opening Ceremony with broad resources to grow to the next level.”
Hyundai may be best known as a South Korean car manufacturer, but it also dabbles in fashion through a division called Handsome. During the Paris collections, Handsome jumped into the City of Light’s shopping scene by opening a Marais outpost of Tom Greyhound, its multibrand concept store. (Check out the Seoul outpost here.)
Tom Greyhound. The name sounds like a cartoon character, and the store’s not-so-vaguely Batman-esque design reinforces that impression. One spin through the racks, however, and everything snaps into focus. A savvy mix of emerging and international talent—including Rag & Bone, Peter Pilotto, 3.1 Phillip Lim, J.W. Anderson, Christopher Kane, Thakoon, Opening Ceremony, and A.F. Vandevorst, among others—comes arranged by theme, not by brand, and the cozy, loft-style layout is sure to please men and women trying to track down labels that, until now, have been hard to find in Paris.
Tom Greyhound is located at 19 Rue de Saintonge, Paris, 75003.
The foursome behind the new label Vetements, which means “clothes” in French, first met at Maison Martin Margiela. After a time, they all dispersed, but the backstory goes a long way toward explaining why, now that they’ve formed a collective, not one wishes to be identified by name. What we can say, however, is that it’s an international crowd with cred—they’re Austrian, Belgian, Ex-Soviet Union, and French, and they’ve done time at Balenciaga and Céline.
Regrouping has been “kind of like a high school reunion,” one of the designers said the other day. “But what we really want to do is just make clothes that are timeless, personal, and nice to have. It’s more a collection of ideas.”
The kind of woman Vetements is talking to is urban, but she’s into pushing it with not-too-basic wares such as vintage 501s reworked as a skirt with uneven, raw hems; boxy jackets in heavy biker leather; and conceptual pieces like garment bag shearling coats and sleeveless vests (these come with a separate set of sleeves). “Brutalist” basics cover a lot of ground, from T-shirts and sweaters to trenchcoats. These are offered in seasonal colors of charcoal, navy, taupe, bordeaux, and black, and the range is brightened by the occasional flash of aluminum nylon. Judging by the retailer response (and the clothes, of course), this wearable compilation of ideas is full of good ones—Opening Ceremony, Joyce Hong Kong, and Maxfield in L.A. have already picked up the brand’s debut collection.
“It’s not topical, we’re not talking themes,” the designer noted. “We’re talking pieces that work on their own and play off each other.” We’ll be keeping an eye out for what this mysterious quartet does next.
The new collection by London-based designer Martine Rose, which debuts exclusively here, will hit Opening Ceremony this week. Though Rose is technically a menswear designer, the Opening Ceremony honchos decided to treat the line as unisex when they picked it up for their stores. And indeed, Rose’s ruffled jackets and roughed-up denim have an appeal that’s pretty genderless: Witness this shoot by Rose’s longtime friend Tyrone Lebon of his girlfriend, Adwoa Aboah, kicking around in some of the looks that will be on the racks at OC. For her part, Rose has a particular angle on the whole androgyny thing. “I wasn’t interested in androgyny as such,” Rose explained. “I was thinking about men throughout history who have broken the conventional gender rules of clothing, men with an overt sexual energy who used feminine looks to underline their masculinity.” Specifically, Rose added, her muse this season was Rick James. And as for Lebon and Aboah’s gender-bending? It turns out, Rose is plenty used to seeing Aboah in her clothes. “Well,” she says, “she walked in my very first catwalk show…”