127 posts tagged "Opening Ceremony"
Watch out. There’s a predatory theme running through Risto Bimbiloski’s Fall 2009 collection: The Paris-based designer has seized inspiration this season from all manner of preying things—working up prints based on raptors’ beady eyes, giving his fabrics the high-gloss finish of venomous insects’ shells, and cutting dresses fit for femmes fatales. “I’m not a designer who looks to a muse,” explains Bimbiloski, who day-jobs as the head knitwear designer at Louis Vuitton menswear. Last season the Macedonia native found himself with his head—almost literally—in the stars, building his collection around the idea of a hypernova and developing prints from images taken from the Hubble telescope. That cosmic collection earned him fans such as Angela Lindvall and accounts with Barneys New York and Opening Ceremony, so perhaps it’s only right that the designer is sizing up new quarry. In September, Bimbiloski will be making his runway debut with a show at New York fashion week. Like we said: Watch out.
Fashion has long had a love affair with the horsey set. Now, it appears, designers are cutting out the middleman and going straight for the horse. A.F. Vandevorst kicked off a trendlet at its show in March, putting a Clydesdale sole on boots and shoes, and Opening Ceremony has followed suit with a hoof-inspired clog for fall. “We had this image in our heads of herds of running animals,” explains Opening Ceremony’s Humberto Leon. “That’s something we’ve always loved, as an image, and that’s how we came up with the idea of these hooflike shoes.” Oversize in front, with a dainty heel at the back, the clog comes in a zipper-detailed slingback style that strikes an urbane compromise with its beast-of-burden silhouette. For the full feral effect, however, Leon implores skeptics to give the suede version a chance. “I think it’s one of those shoes that look really awkward at first, but once you put it on your foot and take another look, the silhouette grows on you,” he says. “We feel like this is something really special.” What do you say? Yea or neigh?
Disregard the name. According to Tim Hamilton, it’s giving people the wrong impression. “People hear ‘Tim Hamilton,’ and they immediately think all-American, they think casual, they think sportswear,” muses the designer, restraining a sigh. “You can’t really control how you’re perceived, but honestly, that’s really not who I am.” Indeed, Hamilton has come a long way from his days in the trenches at Ralph Lauren and J.Crew: Not only has he steered his eponymous menswear brand on an ever more directional path since launching it in 2006, but now, as he debuts womenswear, Hamilton finds himself beating back those all-American sportswear expectations yet again. Fashion is, after all, riding a wave of interest in the unisex—witness Chloë Sevigny‘s new line for Opening Ceremony, or Stefano Pilati’s Edition Unisex designs for YSL—and Hamilton’s female fans may have anticipated, and perhaps even hoped, that the designer would jump on that bandwagon. But instead of riffing on his duds for men, or for that matter, conceding to the recession economy’s utilitarian mood, the womenswear he’s unveiling for Fall ’09 is both unapologetically luxe and exultantly feminine. “That’s one reason I wanted to show in Paris,” Hamilton explains. “My reputation doesn’t precede me here, quite so much. Although obviously,” he adds, “there’s still that whole name thing to contend with.” This evening, Hamilton will present his first womenswear collection at Galerie Ghislaine Hussenot in Le Marais; here, he tells Style.com about fashion fantasy, Iowan fabulosity, and the fastest way to a fashion editor’s heart.
Can I be frank? Your menswear is something I already like to shop, and it seems so adaptable to a womenswear aesthetic—I was a little disappointed when I found out you were going in a completely new direction with this line.
I get that whole thing, of going to the boy’s department, shopping men’s vintage, borrowing from your boyfriend’s closet. I really do. But I also feel like that’s more interesting than just, you know, buying something from a designer who does womenswear versions of his men’s stuff. It’s like, you want the cuts to be a little off.
You didn’t even toy with the idea of doing something unisex-y? That’s having such a moment.
It honestly never even occurred to me to do a woman’s collection that way. Not to sound like a snob or anything, but that wouldn’t have been a challenge. I wanted to think about women on their own terms—they shop differently, the trends move at a different pace, you have more freedom to be experimental. Designing a woman’s collection is like creating a world. Whereas with the men’s stuff, you know, I’ve kind of hit my mark, and so each new season comes down to establishing a few key shapes and then polishing up the details. There’s more of a premium on consistency. And I was ready for fantasy. Continue Reading “Tim Hamilton’s Womenswear Debut: No Boys Allowed” »
For at least a short while, we get more Mayle. Jane’s namesake line and boutique will stay open through April and offer a very limited limited collection.
Fabien Baron and Karl Templer must have something lined up in This Unstable Economy, otherwise their joint exit from Interview would be highly unadvised. Or just ballsy.
Page Six Magazine will continue to dole out the same trustworthy gossip, just less of it.
The Bank of England’s guidelines for their female employees’ wardrobes specify “no ankle chains,” which is disturbing, because it means someone actually wore one.
Uniqlo’s list of participants in its Designers Invitation Project is complete: Steven Alan (for women), Opening Ceremony (men), Shipley & Halmos (women), and Gilded Age (men). Prices stop at $79. Sweet fashion relief.