127 posts tagged "Opening Ceremony"
Leave it to Kenzo designers and Opening Ceremony founders Humberto Leon and Carol Lim to host a full-on Fourth of July BBQ a Paris. On Thursday, the pair invited guests such as André Saraiva, Rose McGowan, Sarah Andelman, Ellen von Unwerth, and Léa Seydoux to the Jardin d’Acclimatation, where they got their fix of hamburgers, hot dogs, fries, and nineties jams. The occasion (other than an Independence Day celebration for the visiting Américains) was the unveiling of Kenzo’s Fall ’13 campaign. This season, the designers teamed up with Toilet Paper magazine founders (and the evening’s cohosts) Maurizio Cattelan, Pierpaolo Ferrari, and Micol Talso, to create their imagery. The surreal ads (below) star Leon and Lim pals Rinko Kikuchi and Sean O’Pry, who pose among a cast of giant insects, gangs of mice, bananas, kittens hiding in boots, the Fall collection’s eye motif, and Cattelan’s favorite—the tiger dog.
Cattelan—an OC devotee—reported that he was pleasantly surprised when Leon and Lim called to collaborate, and described the shoot as a “creative laboratory.” In addition to appearing in Fall glossies, the ads will be featured in Kenzine—a limited-edition Toilet Paper-esque magazine—as well as on a capsule collection of sweatshirts and T-shirts, which will hit stores this September.
Style.com contributing editor and party reporter Darrell Hartman circles the city and, occasionally, the globe in the line of duty. In a regular column, he reports on the topics—whatever they may be at whatever given moment—that are stirring the social set.
“Yes, the lad was premature,” goes a line from The Picture of Dorian Gray. “He was gathering his harvest while it was yet spring.”
I doubt I’m the first person who has, upon meeting Dorian Grinspan, thought of Oscar Wilde’s fable about precious youth. This Dorian is real. The 20-year-old founder and editor Out of Order magazine, he’s been sowing his seeds early—and some of the fashion world’s biggest influencers are taking notice.
Grinspan was born in Paris and came to the U.S. to study at Yale. But while an earlier generation might’ve chosen to wait for a diploma before launching into the world, Grinspan didn’t see the point. “I didn’t come [to the U.S.] wanting to do a magazine. I arrived at Yale and I was really, really bored,” he told Women’s Wear Daily. [Full disclosure: this reporter spent four years at Yale, and did not find it boring.] Grinspan will start his senior year in the Fall, majoring in American Studies, but he recently took an apartment in New York, and says that thanks to some Franco-esque schedule jiggering will be spending just three days a week in New Haven.
Youth these days! Grinspan is already a darling of the industry. WWD is only one of several publications to anoint him an up-and-comer, and his biannual is already carried by the likes of Opening Ceremony and Colette, and the second issue, which Grinspan launched last week, boasts the sort of top-shelf contributors of which many start-up outlets dream. Among the photo credits and profile subjects are Larry Clark, Ryan McGinley, and Olivier Theyskens. These are gets worth bragging about, even if Grinspan is modest, or at least PR-savvy, enough not to. “It’s actually funny to see how accessible these people are and how much they want to help,” he told me at last week’s launch party at Fivestory, an uptown boutique. (His fashion-model looks—literally, as in repped by DNA—aren’t the reason, but surely they can’t hurt.) Gus Van Sant, he added, had been “really interested, and we almost shot something,” but the scheduling hadn’t worked out.
Grinspan has plenty more influential supporters, including fellow editors. “Stephen Gan has been amazing to me,” he said. And after meeting Stefano Tonchi at a party in Cannes last year, Grinspan appeared in W this spring. Starting in the fall, he said, he’ll be writing for the magazine’s website. Quick work. For a moment, Grinspan did pay some dues—as an intern for Carine Roitfeld. Among the people met while working there was photographer Michael Avedon, who shot a story for the new issue. (Avedon is just a year older than Grinspan, and the great-grandson of Richard.)
Grinspan holds himself well—and tends to do so in the right company. Cynthia Rowley, who hosted an after-party of sorts for the magazine at her boutique-cum-sweet-shop, Curious, couldn’t exactly remember how she’d first met him. She was pretty sure his boyfriend had interned at her husband’s gallery. In any case, Rowley said, she’d gotten to know him through “the Brant kids.”
How has Grinspan done it, in an industry with fewer and fewer footholds for young talent? “I don’t think there’s a secret. I feel like everything is so circumstantial,” he explained. When pressed, he added, “Both my mom and my dad have a lot of connections in fashion, I guess.” His mother, a graphic designer, got him interested in clothes and style early on. His father, a lawyer, worked “for a long time” with BCBG. And there’s his godmother, Numéro editor–in-chief Babette Djian. “She’s been great,” Grinspan admits. “We go to fashion shows together if we both have an invite. But I would never call her up and say, ‘Please take me to Jean Paul Gaultier!’ That’s not what I want our relationship to be.”
If things keep going the way they’re going, the occasional missing invite won’t be an issue. And why shouldn’t they? Grinspan has a way about him, evident in the manner in which he politely escorted Clark up the stairs at Rowley’s party and posed with him for photos. Clark, like Rowley, couldn’t recall how he and Grinspan had first started talking, but he did remember meeting Grinspan face to face. “He’s very enthusiastic, but not overbearing at all—just a nice young man,” he said. And one more likely to make a splash than all the others.
Label: Jacquemus, designed by Simon Porte Jacquemus
Need to Know: Emerging self-taught French designer Simon Porte Jacquemus chose to show his Fall ’13 collection at a public pool in Paris’ Bastille neighborhood. Fitting, considering the range was inspired in part by French actress Isabelle Adjani and her 1984 hit song and swim-centric music video, “Pull Marine.” Dreaming of Adjani in the water led Jacquemus to formulate a “tender” ideal of classic French sportiness with a hint of “Cocorico” patriotism.
Featuring his signature simple cuts, Jacquemus’ Fall ’13 was an ode to France—evident in his white, red, and blue palette and the fabulous white shirt with a Tricolore pocket. Other standouts included a cropped crewneck jacket paired with a low-slung pleated skirt, sweater-skirt combos, a T-shirt dress with trompe l’oeil red bathing suits, and lots of navy and white pin-striped cotton.
It’s also worth noting that despite the fact that he now sells to twenty-five stores worldwide, including Opening Ceremony, the designer has kept his day job—he works in sales at Paris’ Comme des Garçons boutique.
He Says: “I love France. This collection is an homage to my country’s style and Isabelle Adjani.”
Where to Find It: Opening Ceremony in New York, Dover Street Market in London, and online at jacquemus.com.
Before you read any further, it’s important to note that you will never look like Rihanna. It’s just not going to happen. But thanks to British high street retailer River Island, you can now dress like Rihanna. Last night in London, the superstar presented her Spring ’13 Rihanna for River Island collection, which she co-designed with Adam Selman; some of the looks that are about to fly straight off shelves included doubled-up baggy jeans, overall-shaped maxi dresses, narrow skirts slit to the thigh, and a wide array of crop tops, gossamer blouses, and T-shirt dresses. It was all a bit nineties grunge with a hip-hop twist, which is to say, the collection did a pretty nice job of capturing Riri’s house style. The clothes will be sold by Opening Ceremony in the United States.
Naturally, this wasn’t your typical London fashion week presentation: There was no catwalk, the models appeared on a giant scaffolding-like structure, and about a million people were there, including Cara Delevingne and her pal Jourdan Dunn, who will be starring in the Rihanna for River Island campaign. You could see both of them jamming to the A$AP Rocky tune that soundtracked much of the show. As the last look appeared, so did Rihanna, who graciously shared the designers’ bow with her collaborator, Selman. She looked positively breathtaking in person. And no matter what you do, you will never, never look like her.