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April 17 2014

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11 posts tagged "Paco Rabanne"

Jeremy Scott: The New Man At Moschino

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Jeremy ScottMoschino, which celebrated its thirtieth anniversary in Milan last month, has hired Jeremy Scott to be its new creative director. The 39-year-old L.A.-based designer replaces Rossella Jardini, who has headed up the label since 1994, when the house founder, Franco Moschino, died. Scott will make his runway debut at Moschino’s Fall 2014 show in February next year. In an e-mail, Aeffe chairman Massimo Ferretti said, “I am enthusiastic about this significant change, as our goal is to inject new energy into our Group in keeping with the changes already in place with other Aeffe brands such as Philosophy, Emanuel Ungaro, Pollini, and Cédric Charlier.” Scott will continue to design his own label, which he launched in 1997. With a rebellious streak at least a mile wide—at one of his early shows, he tossed coins printed with his face at the audience—Scott is a savvy match for Moschino, a label known for its irony and irreverence. “It’s the closing of one chapter and the beginning of a new one,” he said via phone this morning. Here, the Missouri farm boy who Karl Lagerfeld once took under wing discusses his plans for Moschino as he ushers it into its fourth decade.

There are so many synergies between you and the Moschino brand. How did you feel when you were approached?
I was really excited. For me, one of the key elements of Moschino is humor. It’s one of the few houses that has humor, and it’s the same thing for me. Another one of the bonding elements is their written messages that express thoughts and twist ideas. We share an obsession with poking fun at fashion. Whimsy, also.

Were you a Moschino fan before this offer came through?
I was. The ironic thing is, during my last year of college, when I was at Pratt, I interned for the Moschino press office, for Michelle Stein here in New York. Yeah, it’s kind of a fairy-tale story. I was the intern, and now I’m running the company.

You once said you turned down job offers from Pucci, Versace, Paco Rabanne, and Chloé. Why did you say yes to this one?
It’s two things. At the beginning of my career, I felt it was really important to establish my own name. I feel like my own brand, my own DNA, is created and solid now, and I’ve built a global fan base. I don’t have that fear I used to have of the possibility of me getting lost in someone else’s house. On the one hand, I’m different now; the other has to do with the brand. It’s hand in glove. When I heard it, it was like, “Oh my God, yeah, of course.” This is so natural for me; I can take this so many different ways.

When did Moschino come to you?
I was contacted in July. It was very effortless, actually. I feel like they were pretty fixated on the idea and certain about me being the right person. I’ll continue to do my own line, as well as my Adidas collaboration. I’ve been working very vigorously to be ahead of my normal procrastinated self in anticipation of having a larger workload.

Have you been spending time in Italy?
Not yet. Other than meeting them in July, I’ve gone to Milan maybe two or three times. I’m not very familiar with the city, so that in itself will be an adventure for me. I literally don’t even know where to get toothpaste.
I’m going to be there the entire month of November—to understand how they work and to meet my design team, which is already in place. But I’m a very modern boy. I work a lot through the Internet. That’s one of the reasons I moved from Paris to Los Angeles in the first place, actually. Nothing was being made in Paris except the things in my own studio. I could be anywhere. Now that’s even more the case with iPhones and gadgets. But at the same time, I want to see the archives, to learn the house, and to be physically there, as well. We’ll see. Whatever it’s going to take for it to feel right, that’s all I’m concerned about. I want to do a good job.

How does it feel to be headed back to Europe?
I started my career in Paris, so it feels like home. I’m excited about learning more about Milan, Milan life, and Italian style. I’ve only been to Rome once, when Karl [Lagerfeld] brought me. The proximity of everything—I mean, Italy is the size of California, I can spend the weekends sightseeing. I’ve never been to Venice…I’ve always wanted to go, and now I have the perfect opportunity.

On the other hand, California, where you currently work, seems to be having a moment. Does it feel like there’s something going on there?
I am the pioneer, I got here first. I even remember Tom [Ford] saying to me, “I can’t believe you’re moving there, I wish I could do it.” I love it here. I feel inspired, it’s a wonderful way of creating for me—it just feels really good. I don’t really think about how [it's having a moment], but I realize it through other people’s eyes. All the stories about [the new boutique] Just One Eye, all the attention they’re getting. Other people are focusing here. The only thing I can think of that’s different now than when I first moved here is that there’s a younger generation that’s come up, that has become part of the look of the city. There’s been so much more enthusiasm about fashion and style from this new generation of kids. Continue Reading “Jeremy Scott: The New Man At Moschino” »

Paco Rabanne Appoints Julien Dossena

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Julien DossenaPaco Rabanne has appointed 30-year-old up-and-coming French designer Julien Dossena as its new creative director today, reports WWD. He will show his first collection for the house during Paris fashion week on September 26. Dossena, who worked under Nicolas Ghesquière at Balenciaga before joining Paco Rabanne to assist its previous creative director, Lydia Maurer, in 2013, also launched his own line, Atto, this year, to much acclaim. “I’m delighted to be joining this house, which boasts a unique heritage,” said Dossena of his new post. Indeed, Paco Rabanne, whose namesake designer helped create the sixties’ sexed-up, metallic, space-age look when he launched the brand in 1966, has a rich history, but since its revival in 2011, the Spanish label has been somewhat of a revolving door. Manish Arora resigned after helming the house for two seasons, as did his successor, Maurer. We’re looking forward to seeing how Dossena interprets Paco Rabanne’s storied aesthetic.

Photo: Patrick Demarchelier

Two Centuries Of Fashion History, Starring Tilda Swinton

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Christian Lacroix, Haider Ackermann, Martine Sitbon, Bruno Frisoni. They all gathered at the Palais de Tokyo last night for a one-of-a-kind, one-woman fashion show: The Impossible Wardrobe, conceived and curated by the Musée Galliera’s Olivier Saillard and starring none other than Tilda Swinton. The performance lasted nearly 40 minutes, or about four times the normal length of a fashion show. No one minded. On the contrary, the crowd gave the duo a standing ovation.

Wearing white gloves, a lab coat, and beige suede pumps, Swinton variously carried, clutched, and presented vintage clothes and accessories up and down the runway, making eye contact with the audience along the way and pausing in front of a mirror to measure up how she might look if she was allowed to put them on. “It’s not possible to wear the clothes in a museum,” Saillard said, by way of explaining the show’s concept and name. “If Tilda hadn’t accepted our proposal, we wouldn’t have done it.” Above Swinton, a news ticker spelled put the pieces’ provenance, and there were some truly special items here: a 1968 Paco Rabanne dress worn by Brigitte Bardot, Elsa Schiaparelli-designed gloves with built-in gold talons from 1936, an embroidered top that belonged to Isadora Duncan in the 1920s, even a tailcoat covered in gold bullion worn by Napoleon. The Oscar winner actually sniffed the collar on that one, as if to get a sense of his essence. “C’est sublime,” said Bouchra Jarrar afterward. “A new way to talk about the history of fashion. One must never forget history.” In the history of this season, this will rank as one of its most fabulous moments.

CLICK HERE for a slideshow of Swinton wearing some of the pieces from the Musée Galliera collection >


Photo: Piero Biasion

The Little Black Jacket Hits NYC, And More Of Today’s Top Stories

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Karl Lagerfeld and Carine Roitfeld’s much-hyped The Little Black Jacket traveling exhibition kicks off tonight with a party in Soho for celebrities and fashion industry insiders. The week-long homage to the French house classic will open to the public on Friday, with 113 black-and-white photographs of A-listers such as Sarah Jessica Parker, Joan Smalls, and Yoko Ono, who adapted the iconic jacket to fit their own personal style. [New York Daily News]

Paris men’s fashion week just got a little bigger. Band of Outsiders and Hardy Amies have both been confirmed to show for the first time during the June lineup. And in true Band of Outsiders fashion, the label’s designer, Scott Sternberg, has taken matters into his own hands, tapping one model to act as a living mannequin, who will show off all the looks during the course of a 60-hour period and live in a cardboard and wood plank box. Amies will show as part of the official calendar. [WWD]

A month after parting ways with former designer Manish Arora, Paco Rabanne has promoted its young studio design director, Lydia Maurer, to creative director of its womenswear. German-born Maurer, just 29, will present her first collection for the house during Paris fashion week in October and will also oversee accessories. [WWD]

Are Shaun White and Lily Collins a thing? Following Monday night’s CFDA Awards, rumors have been flying that the Olympic snowboarder is pursuing the young Mirror Mirror actress after a short stint with model Bar Refaeli. Reps for both had no comment. [Page Six]

 

 

 

Photo: Karl Lagerfeld and Carine Roitfeld / Chanel

 

Manish Down At Paco Rabanne, Get Your “Yeezy” Necklace Now, And More…

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What’s a week in fashion news without the swing of a revolving door? Word came this morning that Paco Rabanne and its artistic director, Manish Arora, have parted ways after two seasons. [WWD]

Kanye West’s $6,000 hoof heels aren’t the only items from his clothing collection to make their way into an actual store; Colette is now carrying his gold “Yeezy” necklace, too, the one he wore during his Givenchy-clad appearance (pictured) at Occupy Wall Street. [Rolling Stone]

Those minimum-age requirements for runway models (and now, Vogue models) don’t apply everywhere. Natalia Vodianova’s 6-year-old daughter, Neva Vodianova Portman, is making her modeling debut, showing off a dress in an ad campaign from children’s line Caramel to support her mom’s Naked Heart Foundation charity. [Vogue U.K.]

Mommy Sheerest? A very pregnant Julia Restoin-Roitfeld shows baby bump and more on the cover of the new i-D, lensed by Mario Sorrenti. [Styleite]

Photo: Timothy A. Clary / Getty Images