4 posts tagged "Paola Kudacki"
Dress-loving songbird (and, as of this weekend, three-time MTV European Music Award winner) Taylor Swift now “wears the pants,” according to the cover story of the December/January issue of Harper’s Bazaar. The magazine put her in a few of the best pairs of the season for a shoot with Paola Kudacki. We’ll let her finish, but one of the best pants-wearers of recent years was Lindsey Wixson, as captured by Mert & Marcus for the Spring ’10 Miu Miu ad campaign. Call them soul sisters. Next up: A duet?
It may not come as a surprise to those who have seen her work gravity-defying wonders in an Anthony Vaccarello gown slit just about to her sternum, but Anja Rubik isn’t shy about sex or sexuality. And now, with her relaunch of 25 Magazine, she’s creating a forum to talk about it.
Rubik has been involved with the magazine since 2009, when she and then-boyfriend (now-husband) Sasha Knezevic signed on to work on the Viennese title, but she’s since taken full editorial control and rebranded the glossy in the image of Viva, the Bob Guccione-published erotica mag targeted at women, which ran from 1973 through the end of the decade. But mere smut it isn’t; the new issue, shot entirely by women, features photos by Inez van Lamsweerde, Annie Leibovitz, Ellen von Unwerth, and Paola Kudacki, whose “Heroes of 25″ series is pictured above.
Calling in from her native Poland—between shooting in London and jetting off to Cannes, where on Wednesday she’ll launch the magazine with a party at Pierre Cardin’s manse Palais Bulles—Rubik spoke with Style.com about sex versus sensuality, men versus women, and the lessons she’s learned as a newly minted editor. Key among them: Don’t fear the nipple.
Tell me about the vision for 25.
I had the idea because I really loved the magazine Viva from the seventies, which was a Penthouse publication for women. I loved the vision of it, and that was what formed the inspiration for me. 25 is basically directed toward very strong-minded, ambitious women, who are very comfortable with themselves and their sexuality. I was thinking a lot recently and looking how sex is approached nowadays, and nudity, and bodies. Erotica kind of disappeared. The way we approach sex is either really prude or very vulgar.
What will be in the new issue?
Every picture that’s in the magazine is shot by a woman. We have incredible photographers, like Inez [van Lamsweerde], Emma Summerton, and Katja Rahlwes. Annie Leibovitz donated pictures. Ellen von Unwerth. Basically, the magazine consists of beautiful images. It’s less of a magazine, more of an album. And in general, 25 is more than the magazine. We were trying to create an identity, to do a lot of projects connected to it. We’re doing one with Net-a-Porter that will launch quite soon. We did a video with Barnaby Roper and Kanye West that will launch at Colette. It’s a whole lifestyle, a whole vision.
Were there editors you looked to for inspiration or advice? Or other magazines?
I had a lot of references from past magazines, and Viva was the very big inspiration. [But also] Playboy from the seventies, Penthouse from the seventies. And of course editors, yes, Carine [Roitfeld] was a big inspiration as well. Fabien Baron is incredible; I think he has an incredible vision, so clean and minimalistic, that influenced the magazine as well. But I didn’t want it to be too clean on the other hand, because the inspiration was the seventies, and the magazines in the seventies are very far from that. It was a bit of a struggle. And I don’t want it to be taken too seriously. There’s a lot in it that has a sense of humor, a wink.
Do you think men and women approach sex differently?
I think it’s definitely different. In general, I think women approach it in a more sensual way, and a more personal way than a man. A man looks at it and thinks is it sexy or not. A woman will look at every little detail and more of the feeling of the image rather than is the girl sexy. For a woman to take a sexy picture, it takes way more than for a man.
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“Erin has an incredible body and face, and she understands better than anyone the idea behind her designs. The clothes were not necessary!” So says photographer Paola Kudacki of her collaboration with Erin Wasson on the new lookbook for Wasson’s Low Luv jewelry line.
For her Spring/Holiday collection, exclusively seen here first, Wasson drew on symbolism from various cultures, from Native American (in a thunderbird pendant and necklace) to Middle Eastern (Evil Eye stacked rings and bangles, which, according to Erin, “mean many different things according to how and which culture you look at”). “I usually design what I find interesting and powerful,” she said simply. “I want pieces that look intense and have meaning.” Music played a part in her process, too, especially the late Egyptian-born singer Oum Kalthoum, the so-called Star of the East. “Once the music references start popping up, I wanted to portrait her like a goddess, like Nefertiti,” Kudacki added. Wasson’s hammered rings, chandelier earrings, and crosses studded with rough crystals and black agates are flashy enough for the ruler of an empire—or, paired with Wasson’s usual outfit of cutoffs and vintage tees, for a catwalker off duty.
Denim label Rock & Republic returns to Paris tonight, staging its now signature blowout at the Hôtel de Crillon. This season, however, R&R is blowing out multimedia-style. Alongside the Spring 2010 collection, the brand will be screening the first in what CEO and creative director Michael Ball envisions as a series of films documenting Rock & Republic mood and/or modus operandi. Style.com has a sneak preview of the video, which was directed by rising-star photog Paola Kudacki and styled by Mel Ottenberg, and sets up models Charlotte Carey and Stephane Olivier for an erotic pas de deux. But go ahead, click to play. It’s still SFW.
As Ball explains, the key to the video’s interpretation of Lolita lust is restraint. “I think we’ve all felt, at one time or another, a lust for the thing we can’t have,” he explains. “But the great love affairs are the ones where some patience is exercised and those lines aren’t crossed.” He adds, “At least not right away.” The concept of restraint, Ball explains, ties back to Spring’s clothes. “Charlotte was really my muse this season,” he says. “She’s young and incredibly sexy, but there’s a sweetness and naïveté to her that makes her sexiness interesting. I wanted to channel that into the clothes and go for a sexiness that’s not so overt.”