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August 29 2014

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7 posts tagged "Paolo Roversi"

At Paris’ Haute Joaillerie Outings, a Twinkling Taste of What’s to Come

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This year, the January high jewelry presentations were but a prelude to the July Haute Couture season, which itself will be just a preview of what’s to come at the year’s biggest jewelry event: Paris’ twenty-seventh Biennale des Antiquaires in September. But even though most houses just offered a shimmering taste, indie brands and established houses alike gave us lots to lust for. Here, a roundup of the season’s most compelling gems.

Aurelie BiedermanAurélie Bidermann: Aurélie Bidermann’s quintessentially boho-chic personal style reflects the various places she’s lived since childhood—Paris, London, New York, and especially South America, with a nod to India for good measure. This multicolored sapphire and gold cuff with a tsavorite scarab detail headlines her debut foray into precious pieces. The designer’s much-anticipated collection spans colorful critter-shaped charms, a heavy elephant pendant, woven gold bracelets with diamond-lined edges, bangles that jingle, and medieval-inspired rings. We’re looking forward to seeing what fine-jewelry jungle the designer comes up with next.

BoucheronBoucheron: Believe it or not, it’s been a decade since Boucheron first launched its covetable Quatre rings. Now, offspring include an all-diamond variation and cuff bracelets. The Radiant iteration comes in gold with a row of diamonds, and sober, all-gold Monochromes were on offer for those with subtler tastes. Other options include summery renditions with white ceramic “clous” (so named after the calibrated square cobblestones of the Place Vendôme). Mix-and-match stackables and solitaires round out the story.

BulgariBulgari:In the months since Carla Bruni-Sarkozy debuted the original “summer” Diva necklace—she sported 108 carats of fancy-cut emeralds—Bulgari has been crafting a one-of-a-kind Diva for every season. The autumnal variation comes in 116 carats of moghul-cut rubellites, plus diamonds, amethysts, and mandarin garnets, while the winter version’s leaves are frosted over entirely with more than 40 carats of diamonds. Spring is still in the workshop, but it is set to be green, with mint tourmalines and peridots offset by amethysts and diamonds. Meanwhile, graphic, seventies-inflected pieces in diamonds and onyx join the Intarsio line.

ChanelChanel: Gabrielle Chanel loved pearls—real, faux, by day, by night, for sport, you name it. But there is nothing faux, or workout-appropriate, in the brand’s latest high jewelry collection. About three-quarters of the eighty-seven pieces in Perles de Chanel—the first collection in eight years to focus on the house staple—was on display in the Chanel salon this week. And the decadent wares hit all the high notes in the Chanel lexicon: ribbons, lions, camellias, and Coromandel swallows, with pearls ranging from seed-size to gumball (mostly the latter). The colorful one-off necklace strung with five sizable Australian baroque pearls and seven varieties of precious and semiprecious stones is just one of many showstoppers.

DauphinDauphin: Charlotte Dauphin de la Rochefoucauld, who chose her maiden name to headline her maison, makes her first foray into high jewelry this season, and her debut collection is nothing if not impressive. With a little help from friends like Paolo Roversi and Saskia de Brauw, the designer showcased a short line of “strong but light” pieces inspired by architecture—her gold and diamond rings and earrings could be the blueprints of the Eiffel Tower. Another cuff and matching necklace are an exercise in bone structure. Continue Reading “At Paris’ Haute Joaillerie Outings, a Twinkling Taste of What’s to Come” »

A Super Kiss for a Super Birthday

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The original supermodels are celebrating some big birthdays this month. Kate Moss’ fortieth on January 16 will no doubt be quite the affair—French TV channel Paris Première has already announced that it’s created a fashion-packed documentary featuring Isabel Marant, Paolo Roversi, Peter Lindbergh, and more to fete the model’s four decades, and, knowing Moss, chances are an epic party is in the works. But another supe toasted an important anniversaire yesterday: Christy Turlington, who’s been popping up in campaigns left and right, turned 45 yesterday, and her catwalk BFF Naomi Campbell took to Instagram to wish her a happy one. Campbell posted a vintage snap of the pair sharing a kiss, along with a message that read: “HappyBirthday Wagon Turly @cturlington Love you always Omi ❤.” It’s hard to top a French model doc, but that Insta from “Omi” might just take the birthday cake.

Photo: via @iamnaomicampbell / Instagram

Mihara’s Muse

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Emerging Japanese designer Mihara Yasuhiro first learned of Ophelia, an 1851 painting of a red-haired Victorian maiden dead in a babbling stream, by John Everett Millais, when he was 13 years old. “I remember falling for her pink cheeks and hollow gaze,” recalls Mihara, lamenting that he has yet to see the piece in person.

Ophelia has been on the designer’s mind since first sight and served as the inspiration for his SS12 collection. To champion his muse, Mihara collaborated with renowned photographer Paolo Roversi on an ethereal film, titled Ophelia Has a Dream, which juxtaposes life and death. The short (above) depicts the painting’s heroine surrounded by darting butterflies and spring flowers while she wears Mihara’s SS12 kimono gown in her watery grave.

On Friday, December 7, Ophelia Has a Dream will be shown at Tate Britain’s ongoing series Late at Tate, during which the museum is open until 10 p.m. The film will play alongside the museum’s ongoing exhibition Pre-Raphaelites: Victorian Avant-Garde. And, surprise, surprise! Millais’ original painting features in the show. Perhaps Mihara will meet his muse at last.

Stella’s Choice: AGL

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For the third season running, upscale Italian footwear label Attilio Giusti Leombruni (AGL) has snagged supermodel Stella Tennant as its Spring campaign girl. Of the supe, who most recently appeared on the catwalk at Chanel and has fronted ad campaigns for labels including Givenchy, Vivienne Westwood, and Céline, the label’s creative director, Vera Giusti, tells Style.com, “Stella is such a perfect spokeswoman for us—she is so modern, but a little punk too.” And for the 5′ 11” Scottish beauty, the line’s flat shoes are a perfect fit. “No, you won’t see us do a high heel,” says Giusti. “When my grandpa started the line in 1958, he did comfortable shoes, and my father was a doctor so that anatomy is important to us. But we have since added something a little fresher because we are three Italian girls who love fashion,” she says of the line, which she runs with her sisters Sara and Marianna. For Spring, they’ve built upon the metallics they started working with last season, doing bright green, pink, and blue metallic brogues, new iterations of their top-selling ballet flat, and two-tone oxfords. At this morning’s preview in New York, editors were especially raving about the new raffia flats and boots. Here, we debut the new Paolo Reversi-lensed ad campaign and accompanying video exclusively on Style.com.

Designer’s Best Friend

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If man’s (and woman’s) most loyal companion is the dog, designers are no exception. The latest issue of the menswear biannual Man About Town pays homage to a few that know more than most about the inner workings of fashion. For the canine-themed 10th issue—featuring shoots not only by the usual fashion suspects like Paolo Roversi and Willy Vanderperre, but this time, by famed Weimaraner enthusiast William Wegman, too—the magazine sought out the pups of the fashion elite, who are photographed by Erwan Frotin.

The dog’s life: Not bad, if you’re a designer’s pet. Azzedine Alaïa has eleven animals (including one owl), but it’s his St. Bernard, Didine, who gets the close-up. “Animals make people better,” the designer says. That may explain the care Alaïa lavishes on his creatures, like the mastiff, Shamsi, he used to carry in a baby’s sling. “I took him on the Concorde,” Alaïa remembers, “where I said to the stewardess, ‘this is my son, he’s traveling with me.’ She didn’t spot him so she just said, ‘Oh, of course, sir.’” Dries Van Noten’s Airedale, Harry, is treated to fashion heirlooms: Van Noten and his partner, Patrick Vangheluwe, bought him a cushion that originally belonged to Yves Saint Laurent and Pierre Bergé’s French bulldog, Moujik, at the Christie’s auction of items from the couple’s country estate. (The original Moujik has long since passed away, but his successor, also called Moujik, appears in the issue alongside an interview with Bergé.) And in her interview with Jo-Ann Furniss, Donatella Versace reveals that her Jack Russell, Audrey, is a full-on diva. “She is the top, the toppest model of all,” Versace says. Has she as big an ego as Kristen McMenamy? Furniss asks. “Bigger.” What about Linda Evangelista? “Hmmm. Well, not on that level, no.”

Man About Town 10 launches next week at Colette.

Photos: Erwan Frotin / Courtesy of Man About Town