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August 21 2014

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2 posts tagged "peplums"

The Peplum Prevails

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Peplum Resort looks from Alexander Wang, Christopher Kane, and Honor

It’s the hit that won’t quit. Having made a comeback in Fall ’12, peplums remains a strong draw, particularly for the latest Resort collections. “Peplums are pretty exuberant,” Honor’s Giovanna Randall said of the tailoring tool she used to punctuate her impressionist-inspired Resort collection. Used to define a waist (or create the impression of one, as Randall admits to doing during pregnancy), the right peplum can fit, flatter, and add a new dimension of femininity. “When I design, I usually think about what’s happening above and below the peplum, rather than the peplum itself,” the designer said of the blush two-piece look whose curved peplum elongates the legs (above, right). “It divides the body in a very decisive way, so it’s all about striking the right balance.”

Christopher Kane played with the boy-girl divide in his Resort presentation, lightening a puppytooth woven two-piece suit with both oversize crystal buttons and a shortened peplum hem (above, center)—an exciting new tailoring detail for the designer. Alexander Wang, loyal to clean lines, juxtaposed his all-too-familiar sport elements with a flare of fabric. The result was a subtle peplum that played against the tough leather details in his Resort range (above, lefy). Mary Katrantzou also incorporated a few sculpted peplums in her Resort oeuvre, all of which brought smooth, architectural lines to her landscape-printed wares.

The trend continues on the red carpet, too. All eyes were on Angelina Jolie at the Berlin premiere of World War Z, to which she wore a custom Ralph & Russo white peplum midi offset by gold hardware that flattered her delicate frame. On Jolie, the trend proved it’s got legs yet.

Are You Hip To Flouncy Peplums?

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Couture-inspired silhouettes popped up in droves on the Spring runways, so it makes sense that peplums are having a moment. In the late forties and fifties, Christian Dior added flounces to the waistline of jackets as part of the New Look. This season, everyone from the current team at Dior to designers like Jason Wu and Celine’s Phoebe Philo (who called them basques) revived the look. “Peplums cinch in the waist and highlight curves in a way that’s come-hither yet demure,” said Carly Cushnie and Michelle Ochs. While most designers, the Cushnie et Ochs duo included, took peplums in a dressed-up direction, Marc by Marc Jacobs and the new Kenzo collection from creative directors Humberto Leon and Carol Lim featured them in a sporty, everyday context.

CLICK FOR A SLIDESHOW, and let us know if you’ll be adding peplums to your repertoire.