22 posts tagged "Peter Dundas"
The filing deadline for 2011 tax returns is right around the corner on April 17, and we don’t know about you, but the Style.com team has already been plotting how we’re going to spend our refunds. Being the shrewd shoppers they are, executive editor Nicole Phelps and market director Marina Larroude have selected timeless Fall looks like the evening tuxedo from Peter Dundas at Emilio Pucci and Altuzarra‘s updated peacoat, both of which are totally (or at least arguably) reasonable when you break down their price-per-wear ratio. For several other staffers here, a government reimbursement is the perfect opportunity to splurge on items they wouldn’t typically consider. Fashion news editor Matthew Schneier has his eye on one of the “brooches for bros” from Kim Jones’ latest Louis Vuitton menswear lineup, and editorial coordinator Jessica Minkoff is coveting a decadent, embellished Balmain biker jacket—that one might set her back several year’s worth of returns, but hey, a girl can dream, particularly when it’s at the expense of Uncle Sam.
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Python has been the defending champion in the exotics department for the past year or so, but the Fall runways revealed a fierce contender: crocodile. And this season, the scaly stuff wasn’t just relegated to accessories. Giambattista Valli and Fendi‘s Silvia Venturini Fendi whipped the skin into a cocoon-shaped topper and a luxe shift dress, respectively. Others showed it as a pattern instead. The team at MaxMara, for example, paired an embossed leather pencil skirt, cross-body satchel, and military cap with a devore knit turtleneck, while Emilio Pucci‘s Peter Dundas embroidered a sheer black dress with sparkly reptile scales.
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The new It bag you’ll be seeing in the front rows next month is a super-slim, stretched-out version of the Celine clutch you’ve been coveting for a couple of seasons now. Ms. Minimalism herself, Phoebe Philo, showed them at her pre-fall collection, as did other designers like Givenchy‘s Riccardo Tisci and Peter Dundas at Emilio Pucci. But the trend isn’t just for the ladies. At the recent menswear shows, dapper dudes both on and off runways (Burberry, Jil Sander, and Valentino, to name a few) have been spotted with portfoliolike pouches ideal for toting around iPads.
CLICK FOR A SLIDESHOW, and let us know if you’ll be clutching one this season.
After creating, with stylist Emmanuelle Alt, the phenomenon of Balmainia, former creative director Christophe Decarnin abruptly departed from the house he’d brought back to relevance, citing only medical concerns. As the press buzzed about the escalating pressures of the industry (in the wake not only of Decarnin’s departure but of Galliano’s anti-Semitic outburst and McQueen’s suicide), the label appointed an impossibly young, all but untested designer to take his place: The then-25-year-old Frenchman Olivier Rousteing, who’d worked under Decarnin at the height of Balmain’s moment.
Rousteing, a veteran of Roberto Cavalli under Peter Dundas and Balmain under Decarnin, presented his first collection for Resort 2011 and followed it up with a well-received first show for Spring that kept the glitz and glamour but lost some of the rock ‘n’ roll trashiness that had given previous collections their edge. Critics and buyers—even those who had been Decarnin’s boosters—responded. On a recent trip to New York, Rousteing spoke with Style.com about his vision for the house, the high pressure of the industry, and why you won’t see any shredded T-shirts on his watch.
You joined Balmain in 2009, at a time when there was so much excitement around the label—Balmainia, as it were. What was that like?
I went there when it was Balmainia…I understood when I came to the house that it was a really small house with a really big name. But there wasn’t all the structure. It was super-interesting—there was not a lot of people. What is nice at Balmain is not only this part, the Balmainia, but even before; you have access to amazing archives. That was a good thing too with this house. It’s a really French house; it [has] old history.
Is that what you still look back to for your own collections?
When I arrived, I loved the rock ‘n’ roll sex appeal that was in the house, [and] I loved to work with Christophe, obviously. But what I learned from this house is that there is a real DNA, something from the past that I want to bring back. I want to bring the couture feeling that I tried to during the summer [for Spring 2011].
To temper the rock ‘n’ roll with something a little more classic.
I think “classic” is the right word. I want to go to something more timeless. Something that goes for the future. What I love from the old French house, it’s not seasonal. It’s something that stays. That’s my goal for Balmain. Keeping the sexiness but a bit dressier. For a woman who’s more chic, [to] expand from the woman who was before.
There was obviously an enormous amount of pressure on Christophe Decarnin, as there is on all major designers today. Is that something that concerns you?
I believe a lot in the place where I work. I love the brand. The people that work with me are my friends. Already that creates a really good structure, a good system. When Christophe [was] gone, for sure, it was hard for us, but I love [for] the brand to keep going. What I think is nice now is that I can give myself inside the house now, more than before. There were many things I liked with Christophe, and many things that were not me. Now it’s completely me. Continue Reading “More Flash Than Trash:
Olivier Rousteing At Balmain” »
Andrew Heather Signs On With Revillon, Gucci Museum Opens In Florence This Week, Dorothy’s Ruby Red Slippers Could Sell For Millions, And More…
Andrew Heather, who has been assisting Riccardo Tisci on Givenchy’s couture collections, has signed on as the new creative director of Revillon. The French luxury furrier has had an in-house team designing the annual winter collections since Peter Dundas left in 2009. [WWD]
This Wednesday, the Gucci Museo inside Florence’s Palazzo della Mercanzia will open in celebration of Gucci’s 90th anniversary. The museum will include a permanent archive exhibit, contemporary art installations, a Gucci eatery, a Rizzoli bookstore, and a gift shop. [Racked]
Judy Garland’s red slippers from The Wizard of Oz could sell for $2 to $3 million when they go on the chopping block in December. The shoes are one of four pairs made for the movie. One pair is on view at the Smithsonian, another belongs to a private collector, and the third is MIA after they were stolen from the Judy Garland museum. [Vogue U.K.]
Over the weekend, Lady Gaga got all dressed up in a “floor-length sleeveless lacey black dress” for a Silicon Valley fundraiser for President Barack Obama. The pop star, who attended as a paying guest, said last week she wanted to discuss her “concerns about bullying” with Obama at the event. Whether she accomplished her mission or not, we don’t know. [Huffington Post]