50 posts tagged "Peter Pilotto"
You know things are good when you throw a party to celebrate an award six months after the accolade was given—just because you are too busy working away. Such was the case with Peter Pilotto and Christopher De Vos of the label Peter Pilotto, who, along with John Demsey, group president of Estée Lauder Companies, hosted a fete to celebrate the designers’ January win of the 2014 BFC/Vogue Designer Fashion Fund—as well as their longstanding collaboration with MAC.
Held at Pilotto and De Vos’ new studio in East London on a rare sunny evening, the party attracted big names, many of whom were still hungover post-Serpentine gala. Amber Le Bon, Caroline Winberg, Tallulah Harlech, Elizabeth von Guttman, and Caroline Issa’s willingness to attend was a testament to the design duo’s pull.
The pair’s Target collaboration that launched in January (one of the rare high/low collaborations that was stocked by Net-a-Porter) was a triumph, with many pieces selling out within. Harlech in particular was fulsome in her praise. “Their detailed embroidery is pretty intense for me to look at—I once lingered in their archive, falling for all the pieces with incredible detail I’ve never seen up close.”
Naturally, winning the Fashion Fund honor has enabled Pilotto and De Vos to grow their brand. “Now we can make key hires and expand our team so we can carry on with our goal of reaching out to a wider global clientele. It has been an interesting road where we learned a lot along the way, so tonight’s dinner is our way of thanking a lot of people who have helped us get here,” offered De Vos. “After all, we came to London as outsiders, and the fashion community here really embraced us early on. We are humbled by the support,” Pilotto added.
Though the brand is best known for its vivacious prints, its journey to success, the designers admit, wasn’t always easy. “People can be very emotional when it comes to print: It can divide a lot of opinions,” said Pilotto. “But we always felt compelled to follow our instincts, and critically, look at shape and structure as much as fabric. We are as much engineers as we are print people.” So what’s next up for the duo? “Our team is five times bigger than when we started, so now we are in the thinking and planning stages to expand the collection to include swimwear and more accessories,” revealed De Vos. “It is a really exciting time for us right now.”
News broke this morning that 2014 CFDA Womenswear Award nominee and budding master of sensual style Joseph Altuzarra is the latest designer to team up on a capsule with Target. He follows in the footsteps of brands like Proenza Schouler, Prabal Gurung, 3.1 Phillip Lim, and, most recently, Peter Pilotto. “It just felt like the right moment,” offered Altuzarra when asked why he signed on to create the almost fifty-piece collection of ready-to-wear, lingerie, and accessories, which will hit Target stores, the retailer’s website, and Net-a-Porter on September 14. “I’m so focused on building the Altuzarra universe in the luxury market, but the opportunity to bring my world to a larger audience is really exciting,” added the designer, who secured an investment from Kering last year.
Don’t expect the forthcoming capsule to be a greatest-hits range—Altuzarra thinks that would be downright rude. “I didn’t want this collection to just feel like a rehash of things that we’ve done before. That wouldn’t be fair to the Target customer—almost like I didn’t put any effort into it. And it wouldn’t be fair to the Altuzarra customer who might want to buy something new and interesting that we’re not doing for our own line.” Inspired by a world traveler jetting off to far-flung destinations like Paris, Morocco, Tokyo, and Mongolia, the range will include hyper-tailored peplum jackets, pencil skirts, and trenchcoats, all with special details, like embroidery. “I didn’t want to assume that because we were doing a collection with Target that it suddenly had to be a much less interesting product. The collection has to stand on its own, and it is details, volume, and tailoring that make a piece feel rich and special.” The fabrics, too, will lend a luxury feel to the lineup—satin georgette, Swiss dot, slinky jersey, faux fur and leather, jacquard, velveteen, and stretch twill are used throughout.
Mass-market collaborations have done wonders for many an emerging brand, introducing the labels to an entire new demographic outside of the fashion (and shopping) elite. But still, there is always the question of whether a team-up of this kind can dilute a luxury brand. And though the collection is being produced largely in China, this is not a concern for Altuzarra. “Target contacted us because of what our brand stands for, and they were very encouraging about having us really develop a collection that was respectful of what the Altuzarra brand means,” said the designer. “Now, that doesn’t mean that we didn’t think about who the Target customer is and what she’s looking for, but it was really about bringing that customer into our world. There’s an appreciation for overall good product no matter what market you’re shopping in, and Target and I were on the same page about wanting to produce perfect, uncompromised garments.” Said uncompromised garments will all ring in at less than $100. With that in mind, we bet this collection will appeal to loyal fans and, more important, gain him some new ones.
Believe it or not, there’s quite a bit of number crunching that goes into creating our top ten new models list. Each season, we go through the crop of fresh faces and break down each girl’s show list. We consider the quantity and quality of shows she walked and factor in exclusive appearances (yes, going the selective route can still pay off) as well as all-around buzz. One part of the equation that requires a bit more deliberation is deciding just who qualifies as “new.” Take Lexi Boling, for example. Technically, it was the Chicago-born catwalker’s sophomore season; she did Alexander Wang and several big shows in Paris during Spring ’14. But she didn’t pop up in all four cities last September and we couldn’t deny the impact she made this season, so we included her in our Fall ’14 roundup. On the other hand, someone who didn’t make the cut because we felt she had a tad too much experience was icy blond Nastya Sten. With sixty-three Fall shows under her belt, the Russian model was the most in-demand girl of the entire season. Meanwhile, we’re positively smitten with Natalie Westling’s flame-red hair and tomboyish appeal, but she simply didn’t stomp enough catwalks to qualify as a top newcomer. But that’s not to say that these ladies don’t deserve shout-outs. Below, we bring you the stats for Sten, Westling, and more noteworthy runners-up for Style.com’s top ten new models list.
Name: Nastya Sten (THE SOCIETY), middle right
Shows Walked: 63
Highlights: Opened Vera Wang, Tory Burch, Peter Pilotto, Chalayan. Closed Chanel, Diane von Furstenberg. Walked Altuzarra, Calvin Klein Collection, Proenza Schouler, Christopher Kane, Fendi, Versace, Alexander McQueen, Céline, Lanvin, Miu Miu, Saint Laurent.
Name: Natalie Westling (THE SOCIETY), top right
Shows Walked: 13
Highlights: WalkedMarc Jacobs, Giles, Fendi, Chanel, Louis Vuitton, Saint Laurent, Valentino.
Name: Kate Grigorieva (THE LIONS), top left
Shows Walked: 17
Highlights: Opened Donna Karan, Barbara Bui. Closed Giambattista Valli. Walked Gucci, Versace, Isabel Marant, Céline, Givenchy, Stella McCartney, Alexander McQueen.
Name: Iana Godnia (MAJOR), middle left
Shows Walked: 24
Highlights: Exclusive Calvin Klein Collection. Walked Burberry Prorsum, Christopher Kane, Bottega Veneta, Alexander McQueen, Céline, Chloé, Louis Vuitton, Miu Miu, Nina Ricci, Valentino.
Name: Kasia Jujeczka (IMG), bottom left
Shows Walked: 22
Highlights: Opened/closed Aquilano.Rimondi. Walked Calvin Klein Collection, Alexander Wang, Prada, Marni, Dior, Lanvin, Miu Miu, Sacai, Valentino.
Name: Larissa Marchiori (THE SOCIETY), bottom right
Shows Walked: 14
Highlights: Opened Dries Van Noten. Walked Prada, Emilio Pucci, Alexander McQueen, Miu Miu, Sacai, Saint Laurent, Valentino.
Hyundai may be best known as a South Korean car manufacturer, but it also dabbles in fashion through a division called Handsome. During the Paris collections, Handsome jumped into the City of Light’s shopping scene by opening a Marais outpost of Tom Greyhound, its multibrand concept store. (Check out the Seoul outpost here.)
Tom Greyhound. The name sounds like a cartoon character, and the store’s not-so-vaguely Batman-esque design reinforces that impression. One spin through the racks, however, and everything snaps into focus. A savvy mix of emerging and international talent—including Rag & Bone, Peter Pilotto, 3.1 Phillip Lim, J.W. Anderson, Christopher Kane, Thakoon, Opening Ceremony, and A.F. Vandevorst, among others—comes arranged by theme, not by brand, and the cozy, loft-style layout is sure to please men and women trying to track down labels that, until now, have been hard to find in Paris.
Tom Greyhound is located at 19 Rue de Saintonge, Paris, 75003.