September 3 2014

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10 posts tagged "Phi"

Andreas Melbostad, Diesel Black Gold To Present Menswear At Pitti In January


Andreas Melbostad

Andreas Melbostad, designer of the late, lamented Phi, joined Diesel in 2012 as the creative director of its designer collection, Diesel Black Gold. After a few successful seasons, it was announced recently that he’ll take control of DBG’s menswear, too, and his first collection will have a big platform: the 85th edition of Pitti Uomo in Florence this January. “I will enforce the core codes of the collection with my own sensibility and hand,” Melbostad said in a statement.

Photo: Fabio Iona /

Andreas Melbostad, Back In Black (And Gold)


After announcing the departure of Sophia Kokosalaki earlier this month, Diesel Black Gold has reportedly appointed Norwegian designer Andreas Melbostad (pictured, left) to take the reins of the label in October. Melbostad’s name will be familiar to fashion obsessives as the designer of the cult-adored Phi (pictured, right) in the aughts, whose skintight leathers and sexy dresses prefigured fashion’s swing back to the hard-edged eighties look later picked up by other labels. Will he work the same magic in denim? Diesel Black Gold’s commitment to leather suggests he may be a good match. Since the closure of Phi in 2009, Melbostad has consulted for Roberto Cavalli.

Photos: Thomas Concordia / Getty Images (Melbostad); Marcio Madeira (Phi)

Yea, Nay, Or Eh? Leighton Meester’s Fringe Appeal


At the premiere of her new film Date Night last night, Leighton Meester wore one of the fringed stunners from Giambattista Valli’s well-received Spring 2010 collection. The front of her dress is a pretty standard Valli super-mini—his fans no less than his models have got legs for days—but the back is a full panel of suede fringe. We love the look, which Meester paired with chunky, multi-strap boots from the much-missed Phi. We happened to sit next to her stylist at a dinner last night, who confided that Meester cleaned up at the label’s 90-percent-off closing sale, where she’d copped the boots and much else besides. He also let drop that she’s scored a pretty sweet invitation to this year’s Costume Institute Gala. She’ll be at the table of one of the most sought-after designers in the business—young, ultracool, and (befitting the evening’s theme) all-American. What do you think? Does Meester make fringe work, or is this a look better left home on the range?

PLUS: Check back later for our full coverage of Date Night‘s NYC premiere.

Photo: Dave Allocca / Startraks Photo

What’s On Your List For Spring?


It feels like ages ago that we saw the Spring 2010 collections tromp down the runways, but those pieces—the cool neutrals, sporty sweats, and all those flak jackets on parade—are beginning to hit stores. And, well, we’d be lying if we said we hadn’t been waiting. What’s on the wish list?

Executive editor Nicole Phelps’ favorite look is Phi‘s khaki jacket and slouchy military pants, which, alas, aren’t destined for production now that the label has been shuttered. “So I’ll take Haider Ackermann‘s leather cargo vest and bias-cut long silk skirt instead,” she says. “The only question is, will I have an occasion to wear them?”

Associate fashion market editor Romney Leader’s had her eye on silk ikat pants from Dries Van Noten “to add a pop of color to my wardrobe.” Fashion market editor Marina Larroude will be one of many lining up for Phoebe Philo’s gorgeous, neutral leather pieces for Celine. “I’d die for any of their bags and shoes,” she reports. (We’ll try to see that it doesn’t come to that.)

As for me? I’m saving for one of Patrik Ervell‘s rust-detailed shirts from his marvelously (and literally!) corroded collection—full of pieces, I should add, that would look as good on a girl as a guy. (Ervell sent a few young ladies down the runway to prove it.) For a refresher on all the trends of the season, check out our Spring 2010 Trend Reports, and sound off on your own must-haves in the comments below.

Photos: Marcio Madeira; Monica Feudi (Celine)

Phi Closing


The latest casualty of the recession: the cult-adored NYC label Phi. The pre-spring delivery now in stores will be the brand’s last, and the New York shop is expected to close at the end of January. Talk about a lump of coal to get in our collective stocking.

Our plea to any deep-pocketed backers still lurking out there: Scoop up Andreas Melbostad, Phi’s creative director since 2004. An early proponent (and a very successful interpreter) of the hard-edged eighties vibe, the Norwegian designer led the charge on the body-con look that burned up the runways and strapped every editrix and party girl into the tightest frocks they could find these past few years. Melbostad had recently been experimenting with sportier elements—his Resort 2010 collection anticipated some of the scuba touches on other Spring ’10 runways. His own Spring show drew single-namers like Erin, Lauren, Fabiola, and Carine to the front row. He’s too good to be out of a job.

Click here for a look back through Phi’s collections.

Photo: Marcio Madeira